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Old 08-31-2015, 05:34 PM   #11
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There is no power at the secondary switch so the element is not getting power.
There is power at the tank but not at the secondary switch.
The secondary switch is in the lower left of your diagram covered by the propane manifold.
Can I ask how you are measuring for 120 volt at the outside switch. You can't just measure 120 volts by touching both terminals on the switch. The switch just breaks the circuit . you have to measure for voltage by touching the terminal on one side of the switch and the other tester probe on a ground somewhere. Same thing when you test voltage on the other side of the switch.

If you do have an inside switch for the electric heating element in addition to the inside propane/dsi switch.....this inside switch is usually 12 volt (not 120 volt) and controls a relay that will be in the junction box. This relay then allows 120 volt power to the second switch in the front of the water heater.

Are you sure there are two inside switches for the water heater....or just one inside and one outside.
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Old 08-31-2015, 05:59 PM   #12
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Just to add, if you do have two inside switches, the following link will take you to the frf library, where I uploaded the SW6DEL manual earlier this year. Figures 4 and 5 in the manual show the wiring schematics for the 12 volt to the relay and then the 120 volt past the relay.

Maybe that will help troubleshoot,

Forest River Forums - Downloads - Suburban SW6DEL, SW10DEL, SW12DEL, SW16DEL install
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Old 08-31-2015, 06:45 PM   #13
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Have you checked power at interior switch?
Yep, I have 12V DC coming out of the interior switch.

I think the little black box in the junction must be the power relay that the 12V interior switch controls. I'm going to try by-passing the 120V on that relay and see if that results in 120V on the secondary switch.

Thanks for helping me! I'll post back after I try my next round of experiments.
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Old 08-31-2015, 07:02 PM   #14
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Can I ask how you are measuring for 120 volt at the outside switch.
I was placing the multi-meter probes between the two black wires connected to the switch Doh! Can you suggest what to use as a ground? Would the white wire at the junction box work for that?

Thanks for the help and the link to the manual.
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Old 08-31-2015, 07:02 PM   #15
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Ground to your water heater

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Old 08-31-2015, 08:03 PM   #16
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Ground to your water heater
OK, I wasn't measuring voltage correctly.
I have 120V at the secondary switch.
I pressed both the LP and Electric reset switches on the HW tank and now I have the electric heater element working!

I killed the breaker on my hot water heater circuit without turning off the inside 12V lighted switch and it caused the left reset switch to trip. I thought the left one was for LP.

Does this sound normal? Flipping the breaker without turning off the lighted 12V inside switch causes the thermocouple reset switch to trip.
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:04 PM   #17
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No you should be able to.
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Same panel?


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Old 08-31-2015, 08:08 PM   #18
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No you should be able to.
Attachment 87446
Same panel?
Yes, exactly the same panel.
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:11 PM   #19
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Yes, exactly the same panel.
I think red wires to hi limit switch is 12v and black wires to other for 120v

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Old 08-31-2015, 08:13 PM   #20
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12v right 120v left

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