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Old 12-12-2014, 09:49 AM   #1
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Suburban SW6DE Water heater problem

I have a Suburban SW6DE water heater. A couple years ago I installed a "hot Rod" in the water heater as the I was unaware the unit had an electric function. Later I discovered the electric function was not working anyway. We used the "Hot Rod " until recently. Now when we use the propane function it is hard to lite. (Takes several attempts) but once started it heats the water good. My problem is once the hot water is used the system tries to relight but goes into lockout instead. I had read that the system should make a clicking sound til started but my system only clicks once then lights. I am assuming the igniter
is not working properly. Any suggestion?
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Old 12-12-2014, 10:09 AM   #2
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Igniter may just be out of adjustment.

There easy to replace nonetheless.

Keeping the burner and flue clean is also a must.

Compressed air will blow debris out nicely.
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Old 12-12-2014, 10:10 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by THELMALOUIE View Post
Now when we use the propane function it is hard to lite. (Takes several attempts) but once started it heats the water good. My problem is once the hot water is used the system tries to relight but goes into lockout instead. I had read that the system should make a clicking sound til started but my system only clicks once then lights. I am assuming the igniter
is not working properly. Any suggestion?
I'm not sure I'm following correctly. The direct spark ignitor (DSI) will attempt three cycles before going into lockout. However, you stated after that, it is lighting just after one click (which would be excellent)

If the ignitor is taking longer than usual, or is locking out after three unsuccessful cycles....then you may have a propane delivery problem...or
the ignitor electrode needs adjusting or is misaligned as Turbs pointed out. The gap should be 1/8".

Page 22 of the Suburban guide gives you troubleshooting tips. Here is where you can download it from:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...?do=file&id=36



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Old 12-12-2014, 10:19 AM   #4
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Yes,by using the (Hot rod) you Removed the (Anode Rod) which is a Key part of operation of the (Suburban W/H)! Repair your Elec. function and replace the A-Rod! Your igniter needs adjusted. Youroo!!
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Old 12-12-2014, 12:29 PM   #5
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Yes,by using the (Hot rod) you Removed the (Anode Rod) which is a Key part of operation of the (Suburban W/H)! Repair your Elec. function and replace the A-Rod! Your igniter needs adjusted. Youroo!!
You must be texting again, what is your address so I can send you the SPAM and won't starve....
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Old 12-12-2014, 07:22 PM   #6
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Used compressed air to blow the system out. Not sure where the 1/8 inch adjustment should be made on the ignitor.
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Old 12-12-2014, 08:03 PM   #7
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Used compressed air to blow the system out. Not sure where the 1/8 inch adjustment should be made on the ignitor.
Pages 12 and 13 here may help:

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/subrv6.pdf

You are looking for this:

http://www.amazon.com/Suburban-23225.../dp/B003G9IYQY

and make sure the tips are aligned and 1/8" apart. Also use figure 8 on page 12 above to make sure the assembly is correctly positioned to the burner tube.

The electrode is at the end of the orangish wire at the bottom right of the water heater:

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Old 12-26-2014, 07:31 PM   #8
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I had problems with my igniter also on o brand new unit. Mine did the same thing yours did. I found on the igniter mounting plate had a powder film behind it from the galvanized sheet metal brackets. I removed the igniter and sanded the two plates were it mounts, which is your ground. Works great. I looked at it in the dark and found that the spark was trying to jump to closes ground instead of between igniter contacts. Also I put dielectric grease on metal were it mounts. Just one screw holds in igniter. Hope this helps.


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