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Old 05-28-2014, 04:36 PM   #11
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Open your outside water heater hatch.
The control board is more or less in the middle.

Wait-- maybe it's behind the wall..... I'll be right back.....
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Old 05-28-2014, 04:46 PM   #12
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My bad! The board is inside the trailer directly behind this outside area.
I can't show you mine because I'm parked behind a pole and can't open
that outside pass thru storage hatch.

See the photo-- follow the red spark wire thru the metal....
you gotta get to the other side of this and you'll find the control board.

Good luck!
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Old 05-28-2014, 04:52 PM   #13
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Oh I new you were gonna say that....They built my wall unit over top of that heater and without cutting a hole in it I have a 4x8 drawer I can pull out and its opening is 2 feet away just to the rear of the heater....this is not my day...thx for the sad news though
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Old 05-28-2014, 04:55 PM   #14
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Whats it like to pull of the front from the outside dan
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Old 05-28-2014, 05:02 PM   #15
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Before you start tearing things apart, I would strongly suggest getting the manual and checking the location of the sparker and thermocouple. A mere 1/32"-1/16" will make a world of difference. Voice of experience here on our 2012 when brand new.
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Old 05-29-2014, 08:04 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot View Post
Before you start tearing things apart, I would strongly suggest getting the manual and checking the location of the sparker and thermocouple. A mere 1/32"-1/16" will make a world of difference. Voice of experience here on our 2012 when brand new.
We don't think there is a thermocouple. It uses "flame rectification" to sense flame.
The OP says it lights and then shuts off. After 3 trys it faults out.
Sounds like the board isn't "seeing" the flame.

I once had a WH that wouldn't light. I pulled the plugs off the board and
re-seated them a few times. That must have scratched off the corrosion
and made a better contact. It worked from then on. Try that.

Pulling the water heater out is a big job. I'd rather take apart a cabinet.
OF course I'd rather not do either! I can't say for sure what's wrong.
Maybe it's time for a trip to the shop?

Good luck!
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Old 05-29-2014, 08:30 PM   #17
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Based on the Surburban service manual there appears to be a thermocouple much like home water heaters and the problem seems much like a bad theromcouple.
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Old 05-29-2014, 08:50 PM   #18
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Units that use DSI (Direct Spark Ignition) do not use thermocouples.

Flame verification is by the passing of current through the ionized gas of the flame at the electrode.
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Old 05-29-2014, 08:51 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
We don't think there is a thermocouple. It uses "flame rectification" to sense flame.
The OP says it lights and then shuts off. After 3 trys it faults out.
Sounds like the board isn't "seeing" the flame...
All I can say is my 2012 did the same thing and I just adjusted the striker and it solved the problem. Maybe I moved or did something inadvertently to correct it, but it hasn't caused a problem since except when I had a brain fart and burnt the electric heating element out last fall.
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Old 05-29-2014, 08:56 PM   #20
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All I can say is my 2012 did the same thing and I just adjusted the striker and it solved the problem. Maybe I moved or did something inadvertently to correct it, but it hasn't caused a problem since except when I had a brain fart and burnt the electric heating element out last fall.
Since the electrode is not only "the sparker" but also the "flame monitor", repositioning the electrode could solve the flame monitoring issue as well.
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