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Old 03-19-2014, 07:27 AM   #11
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They make a 3/4 npt helicoil.
http://www.nolansupply.com/bysubcate...lse&specs=True

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271034131800?redirect=mobile

http://www.nytimes.com/1998/04/05/ny...ater-pipe.html

Might be cheaper to buy a new wh.

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Old 03-19-2014, 07:51 AM   #12
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Yes the 3/4NPT Kit #0414 is( 391.61$) Free shipping! But you can repair (4) threads. Youroo!!
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Old 03-19-2014, 08:00 AM   #13
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http://www.americanrvcompany.com/Sub...Fa07MgodpGkAeQ


http://www.ebay.com/bhp/6-gallon-suburban-water-heater


http://www.adventurerv.net/suburban-...sw6p-p-82.html


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Old 03-19-2014, 09:10 PM   #14
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Quote:
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No No No,the Suburban Drain hole is (3/4 NPT). Now throw that (Rubber Plug) away,you have just built a Water Heater (Pipe Bomb)! Youroo!!
That's the job of the safety blow off at the top, to relieve excess pressure. How in the world is a screw in rubber plug stronger than pipe threads?
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Old 03-19-2014, 09:37 PM   #15
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If there is enough metal left, you can tap it out to 1" npt and get a reducing bushing back to 3/4"npt.
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:16 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SKnight
That's the job of the safety blow off at the top, to relieve excess pressure. How in the world is a screw in rubber plug stronger than pipe threads?
I think he is using a rubber expansion plug, it would work without threads! Made for repair of low pressure boilers, pipe leaks etc. Rubber expands both sides of opening.
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:29 AM   #17
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I think he is using a rubber expansion plug, it would work without threads! Made for repair of low pressure boilers, pipe leaks etc. Rubber expands both sides of opening.
Correct, but I'm wondering how that constitutes turning it into a bomb when it's supposed to have a pipe threaded steel insert?
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:36 AM   #18
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Correct, but I'm wondering how that constitutes turning it into a bomb when it's supposed to have a pipe threaded steel insert?
The chances of it blowing out with pressure is MUCH greater with it not having threads and just relying on the rubber expansion to hold it in. The old style thermos bottles use to have an adjustable rubber stopper.
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:37 AM   #19
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All the water heaters I've seen had a sort of bushing welded in at the
drain/anode hole.
Tapping that out to 1" would most likely remove all of that and there
wouldn't be enough metal left to do anything with.

I still wonder about running a 3/4 tap in there a couple turns and getting
some threads. Then use the anode/plug with a layer of teflon tape and
lots of pipe dope on the threads and tighten very carefully.
Start with a NEW anode.

My anode is sometimes hard to start but when it's fully tight it's still only
in there about 3 or 4 threads at best. The OP says he can't get his to start.
Try a 3/4 NPT tap unless the hole is so big the new anode just pushes
thru the hole by hand.

BTW- mine tends to rust badly over the winter if I leave the plug out.
That's why I drain mine and then apply plenty of teflon pipe dope and replace
the plug/anode for the winter.
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:52 AM   #20
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Correct, but I'm wondering how that constitutes turning it into a bomb when it's supposed to have a pipe threaded steel insert?
By (Bomb) I am referring to the Rubber plug (Temporary) that he put in the drain hole. Many members have removed the (3/4 NPT rod) while still under water Pressure and found out what (Water Bath) comes out! Thus if the (Rubber Plug) lets Go,here comes the water and there goes the (Heating Element) if equipped! There are (Many Members) that remember their (First Bath) from removing the (Anode)! Youroo!!
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