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03-18-2014, 07:08 PM
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#1
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Retired May 2015
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Happy Valley, OR
Posts: 33
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Suburban Water Heater anode
Previous owner evidently removed and changed the anode rod. Must have stripped the threads as the leak. I removed and added Teflon tape, tightening as much as I dared. Have googled and a 1/2 NPT thread chaser/cleaning tool was recommended. It doesn't seem to exist, I have the NPT tap and have tried it but not enough meat. What recommendations/options does anyone have? My obvious choice is to replace the entire unit but it works perfectly. BTW to fix the leak I employed a short term fix was to use a twist in rubber plug, but certainly not at permanent solution. Thanks
__________________
Dennis & Carol
2005 Bulletproofed F-250 6.0 Crew Cab/Long Box
2007 Forest River 38 ft Sierra
Retired 4/30/15
Traveling with new pup "Sammie". Boston Bull Terrier/chihuahua (Bo-huahua). Pronounced Bow wow wow.
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03-18-2014, 07:19 PM
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#2
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Plain Old Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Full Timing in South Louisiana
Posts: 1,938
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Is there anything you can coat the worn threads with, let it set, then chase with the tap? I can't think of anything other than JB weld and I don't know if that would work, but I'm sure there is something that would bond to the old threads and accept the tap without coming off.
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John and Rebecca Dickson
Emma-7 / Little John-5 / Iva-1
Full Timing Again, Rev B
2013 Ford F-350 Lariat CC LB PSD
2015 SOB TT - With OC's Awning Poles (#8)
At least in Heaven, RVs will be perfect, and I won't have to keep fixing them.
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03-18-2014, 07:26 PM
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#3
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Plain Old Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Full Timing in South Louisiana
Posts: 1,938
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__________________
John and Rebecca Dickson
Emma-7 / Little John-5 / Iva-1
Full Timing Again, Rev B
2013 Ford F-350 Lariat CC LB PSD
2015 SOB TT - With OC's Awning Poles (#8)
At least in Heaven, RVs will be perfect, and I won't have to keep fixing them.
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03-18-2014, 07:30 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Seaford, De
Posts: 2,377
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how is a rubber plug sealing under pressure but not the anode rod with Teflon tape?
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David & Lynn 2014 Coachmen Chaparral Signature 327 RLKS 2016 Ford F350 Lariat CC Dually
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03-18-2014, 07:46 PM
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#5
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Jack of All Trades
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Williston, Florida
Posts: 317
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Assuming there are some threads left in the tank connection, and you have cleaned them up with the tap, You could try the following:
New anode rod
Apply a light coat of heavy-bodied pipe dope (Slic-Tite PTFE or similar)
Apply 5 to 6 wraps of "GOOD" Teflon pipe thread sealant tape (Mil grade)
Apply a heavy coat of heavy-bodied pipe dope (as above)
Insert anode rod into tank, tighten 1 to 2 turns past hand tight using a 1-1/16"
socket and ratchet with an extension
Wait 24 hours before adding water and pressurizing tank
If it still leaks, tighten 1/2 turn at a time until it seals
I do a lot of stainless steel piping (stainless steel pipe and fittings are extremely difficult to work with and seal) and this will generally give a tight seal.
Rick
__________________
Rick & Debbie; Brandy Schnoodle & Bucky (Dexter & Fritz R.I.P.) the Doxie "Kids"
2015 Jayco Pinnacle 36RSQS 5'er
2018 GMC Sierra Denali 3500HD, 6.6L Diesel Dually; B&W Companion 5'er hitch
ScanGauge, TST 507 TPMS
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03-18-2014, 08:51 PM
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#6
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Retired May 2015
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Happy Valley, OR
Posts: 33
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Thanks. I will try when I get home from morro bay, ca coast. Rubber plug has a a t-handle to tighten no drips. Not enough threads to restart a new anode. I tried. I may try the loctite product. Never gave that a thought.
__________________
Dennis & Carol
2005 Bulletproofed F-250 6.0 Crew Cab/Long Box
2007 Forest River 38 ft Sierra
Retired 4/30/15
Traveling with new pup "Sammie". Boston Bull Terrier/chihuahua (Bo-huahua). Pronounced Bow wow wow.
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03-18-2014, 09:29 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,428
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Call and check with a plumber. Surely there's a permanent fix for this issue.
__________________
Now-2014 Sierra 346RETS 5er BUB
Then-2002 Keystone Springdale 286RLDS TT
Nights camped in 2014-28, 2015-127, 2016-10
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03-18-2014, 09:44 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: SK, Canada
Posts: 190
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I wonder if you can get a Heli-Coil insert for something like that, to replace the threads.
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2013 Forest River Surveyor SP296
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03-19-2014, 05:23 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Seaford, De
Posts: 2,377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Bones
I wonder if you can get a Heli-Coil insert for something like that, to replace the threads.
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I don't think you can heli-coil pipe thread, since it is tapered.
__________________
David & Lynn 2014 Coachmen Chaparral Signature 327 RLKS 2016 Ford F350 Lariat CC Dually
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03-19-2014, 06:14 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwcjb
Previous owner evidently removed and changed the anode rod. Must have stripped the threads as the leak. I removed and added Teflon tape, tightening as much as I dared. Have googled and a 1/2 NPT thread chaser/cleaning tool was recommended. It doesn't seem to exist, I have the NPT tap and have tried it but not enough meat. What recommendations/options does anyone have? My obvious choice is to replace the entire unit but it works perfectly. BTW to fix the leak I employed a short term fix was to use a twist in rubber plug, but certainly not at permanent solution. Thanks
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No No No,the Suburban Drain hole is (3/4 NPT). Now throw that (Rubber Plug) away,you have just built a Water Heater (Pipe Bomb)!  Youroo!! 
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03-19-2014, 06:27 AM
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#11
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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03-19-2014, 06:51 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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Yes the 3/4NPT Kit #0414 is( 391.61$) Free shipping! But you can repair (4) threads.  Youroo!!
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03-19-2014, 07:00 AM
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#13
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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03-19-2014, 08:10 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youroo
No No No,the Suburban Drain hole is (3/4 NPT). Now throw that (Rubber Plug) away,you have just built a Water Heater (Pipe Bomb)! Youroo!! |
That's the job of the safety blow off at the top, to relieve excess pressure. How in the world is a screw in rubber plug stronger than pipe threads?
__________________
Now-2014 Sierra 346RETS 5er BUB
Then-2002 Keystone Springdale 286RLDS TT
Nights camped in 2014-28, 2015-127, 2016-10
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03-19-2014, 08:37 PM
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#15
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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If there is enough metal left, you can tap it out to 1" npt and get a reducing bushing back to 3/4"npt.
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03-20-2014, 08:16 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,570
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by SKnight
That's the job of the safety blow off at the top, to relieve excess pressure. How in the world is a screw in rubber plug stronger than pipe threads?
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I think he is using a rubber expansion plug, it would work without threads! Made for repair of low pressure boilers, pipe leaks etc. Rubber expands both sides of opening.
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03-20-2014, 08:29 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VinceU
I think he is using a rubber expansion plug, it would work without threads! Made for repair of low pressure boilers, pipe leaks etc. Rubber expands both sides of opening.
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Correct, but I'm wondering how that constitutes turning it into a bomb when it's supposed to have a pipe threaded steel insert?
__________________
Now-2014 Sierra 346RETS 5er BUB
Then-2002 Keystone Springdale 286RLDS TT
Nights camped in 2014-28, 2015-127, 2016-10
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03-20-2014, 08:36 AM
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#18
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SKnight
Correct, but I'm wondering how that constitutes turning it into a bomb when it's supposed to have a pipe threaded steel insert?
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The chances of it blowing out with pressure is MUCH greater with it not having threads and just relying on the rubber expansion to hold it in. The old style thermos bottles use to have an adjustable rubber stopper.
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03-20-2014, 08:37 AM
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#19
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 10,525
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All the water heaters I've seen had a sort of bushing welded in at the
drain/anode hole.
Tapping that out to 1" would most likely remove all of that and there
wouldn't be enough metal left to do anything with.
I still wonder about running a 3/4 tap in there a couple turns and getting
some threads. Then use the anode/plug with a layer of teflon tape and
lots of pipe dope on the threads and tighten very carefully.
Start with a NEW anode.
My anode is sometimes hard to start but when it's fully tight it's still only
in there about 3 or 4 threads at best. The OP says he can't get his to start.
Try a 3/4 NPT tap unless the hole is so big the new anode just pushes
thru the hole by hand.
BTW- mine tends to rust badly over the winter if I leave the plug out.
That's why I drain mine and then apply plenty of teflon pipe dope and replace
the plug/anode for the winter.
__________________
Peace!
Dan & Rita D
2017 Nissan Titan 5.6L King cab 4wd
2016 Evergreen Everlite 242RBS
29' empty nest model. Blue Ox WD hitch
(1 queen bed, large main cabin and huge bathroom)
Camping days 2010-53, 2011-47, 2012-41, 2013-41, 2014-31, 2015-40, 2016-44, 2017-63, 2018-75, 2019-32, 2020-41, 2021-49, 2022-43, 2023-66
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03-20-2014, 08:52 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SKnight
Correct, but I'm wondering how that constitutes turning it into a bomb when it's supposed to have a pipe threaded steel insert?
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By (Bomb) I am referring to the Rubber plug (Temporary) that he put in the drain hole. Many members have removed the (3/4 NPT rod) while still under water Pressure and found out what (Water Bath) comes out! Thus if the (Rubber Plug) lets Go,here comes the water and there goes the (Heating Element) if equipped! There are (Many Members) that remember their (First Bath) from removing the (Anode)! Youroo!! 
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