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Old 11-21-2015, 01:54 PM   #11
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Low Point Drains

Im storaging for summer for six months, so no threat of freezing. Are the low point drains (fulltime plumbed connectors) enough to empty hot and cold waters? Or should I take the hot water plug out and empty the filter?
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Old 11-21-2015, 05:09 PM   #12
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+Suburban heater drain

Note: Plug requires 1 1/16 socket. I made two trips to Lowes before I got the right size socket. All my socket sets stopped at 3/4 inch. Draining g is easy once you break it loose.
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Old 11-21-2015, 05:43 PM   #13
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The truck-size tire rim lug "star" wrench has a 1-1/16, as well. The lug wrench makes removing it easy.

The only caution is when you replace the anode to not over-tighten it if using that wrench, because you easily CAN!

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Old 11-21-2015, 05:50 PM   #14
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I've got the same WH, 27mm works just as well. Mark it with a Sharpie because next year you will ask the same question, "what size is it?"
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Old 11-21-2015, 05:54 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Mikegjax View Post
If the threads are rusting, what do you think is going on in that steel tank.
Just a thought. The anode is sacrificial metal that will corrode (oxidize) first due to the electrolytic action between the steel and the anode as long as there is air and humidity. You ever see a piece of steel laying in a garage out of the rain rust ? That's just me.
The electrolytic action with air and humidity in an empty HW tank.........can you explain that?......a friend was asking.
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Old 11-21-2015, 07:05 PM   #16
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I went one step farther. Threaded a piece of 3/4 PVC , pull the anode and insert the 3/4PVC and all the water drains out side and when finished the PVC stores upright in the corner.
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Old 11-21-2015, 07:54 PM   #17
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I went one step farther. Threaded a piece of 3/4 PVC , pull the anode and insert the 3/4PVC and all the water drains out side and when finished the PVC stores upright in the corner.
The 3/4 PVC pipe reduces the drain hole,better to not have for additional opening size! Youroo!!
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Old 11-21-2015, 07:57 PM   #18
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I have a 2016 Classic Super Lite 831RLBSS that I'm trying to winterize. The sales people were no help when it came time for the walk-around concerning much of anything about the travel trailer and the "Owners Manual" was generic at best. Needless to say I plan on posting a lot of questions. First: how do you drain the water heater? I configured the bypass valves in the back of the unit and opened the pressure relief valve. There doesn't seem to be anything on the bottom of the unit except what looks like the (anode?). How can I tell if the water heater is empty? Again, the owners manual was of little help. Attachment 94667
Note,dont forget to return the pressure relief valve to it Seated location! Youroo!!
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Old 11-22-2015, 01:36 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by sgh77 View Post
Im storaging for summer for six months, so no threat of freezing. Are the low point drains (fulltime plumbed connectors) enough to empty hot and cold waters? Or should I take the hot water plug out and empty the filter?

The low point drains will drain the lines but not the water heater. To keep the water from getting stinky, even though you are not looking at freezing temps, draining the heater would be a good idea. There is also water below the water heater drain point you can flush and siphon out.

PS: Atwood users, the plug is 15/16"


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Old 11-22-2015, 04:40 AM   #20
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The low point drains will drain the lines but not the water heater. To keep the water from getting stinky, even though you are not looking at freezing temps, draining the heater would be a good idea. There is also water below the water heater drain point you can flush and siphon out.
Cheers for that
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