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05-20-2014, 07:57 PM
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#21
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,269
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OK, I learn something on this forum every day.
It seems in 2002 they changed the electric element in the Suburban water heaters from 1000 Watts to 1440 Watts. The manual I have is an old one with the the old wiring diagram that shows 1000 Watts.
SO, LONG story short (Thanks Bobby!), if your water heater was made prior to 2002 you most likely have a 1000 watt 120 VAC element; after 2002 you most likely have a 1440 120 VAC element. 1500 should be no leap at all...
__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
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05-22-2014, 10:50 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Blue Ridge Mountains
Posts: 243
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The new heating element I bought for the suburban SW6DE is an exact replacement part, and it's 1440 watts 120 A/C. I measured the size of the element head with a pair of calipers, and the socket I need is 1 1/2''. Had a hard time finding one. Both RV places didn't have them. I finally found one at the local Ace on my second try. $10.49.
After I complete the job I'll keep it in the TT, in case a poor camper blows an element and needs to pull it out. I see the local RV guy is charging $100.00 per hour for labor.
If your going to RV, you better be handy.
__________________
2017 Salem 32bhds
2015 Ram 3500 DRW, CTD 4x4, MC,Aisin,4.10's
SIX BURNIN - SIX TURNIN
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05-22-2014, 11:04 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammer3025
The new heating element I bought for the suburban SW6DE is an exact replacement part, and it's 1440 watts 120 A/C. I measured the size of the element head with a pair of calipers, and the socket I need is 1 1/2''. Had a hard time finding one. Both RV places didn't have them. I finally found one at the local Ace on my second try. $10.49.
After I complete the job I'll keep it in the TT, in case a poor camper blows an element and needs to pull it out. I see the local RV guy is charging $100.00 per hour for labor.
If your going to RV, you better be handy.
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Jammer you are correct (1-1/2) socket. But the (cheap sheet metal) socket they sell for this app.is very thin OD. I had to put my (1-1/2) socket in the lathe and turn down the OD to clear the cover on the Water heater.  Youroo!! 
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05-22-2014, 06:30 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Blue Ridge Mountains
Posts: 243
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^^^^ Whew, I guess I got lucky. Mine just came right out. The TT is only 4 months old though. 
__________________
2017 Salem 32bhds
2015 Ram 3500 DRW, CTD 4x4, MC,Aisin,4.10's
SIX BURNIN - SIX TURNIN
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05-23-2014, 08:54 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammer3025
Maybe I wasn't wording it right . I meant there's a black and a white wire going to the element. I was wondering if he had switched those wires. It looks to me that the black wire goes to the thermostat eventually, so I thought if the OP had switched those it might not have worked. I didn't mean switching high or low limit switcheds.
I burnt my element out during a very hasting and totally excited first day in my beautiful new Windjammer, so I'm listening to you with great interest of course. Behind that rubber membrabe where the reset's are, are those the limit switches?. How do I test them? Wondering because in a few days hopefully I will be tackling this job myself.
I need to find the correct element for the swe6de, and the 1-1/2 socket, and maybe the high limit switch. Hope I didn't mess anybody up.
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The element AND several selections of sockets for the project can be purchased on Amazon.com for a very cheap price.
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05-25-2014, 10:33 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Blue Ridge Mountains
Posts: 243
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I'm sure you can get anything from Amazon. The RV shop is just down the road, and if the element didn't fit it's no problem to return. It was an exact fit for $23.00. As for the socket I bought , it's not a snap-on, but it did the job perfectly, and is of pretty good quality for $10.49. Even the RV tech told me he usually takes a 1 1/2 socket and has to turn the edge down on a lathe to get it to fit the very shallow head of the element, and to get it between the element and the sheet metal of the heater.
So yeah, it worked great. Did the whole job for $33.49. Shop labor here is $100.00 per hour. Saved a few dollars, and I have the tool to do it again. The element doesn't have to be tightened down so hard you can't remove it. Just good and snug. It has a rubber gasket that if you did tighten it down to much it could break. Makes it easier to remove next time if it happens.
__________________
2017 Salem 32bhds
2015 Ram 3500 DRW, CTD 4x4, MC,Aisin,4.10's
SIX BURNIN - SIX TURNIN
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05-25-2014, 05:58 PM
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#27
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Denver, CO
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 2,102
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I wonder what happened to the OP? No response at all.
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2017 Fuse 23T
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05-25-2014, 08:33 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,337
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OP here. It wasn't the element so we have to try the thermostat next. Been waaaay too busy in our wood shop to get on the forum. We do 45+ craft/art shows a year, so my "surfing" and potential problem solving queries are at an all - time low. Thanks to everyone for the help. I'll try to keep you posted on the continuing saga. We have friends with a Laredo with the same issue.
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Forest River Forums mobile app
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2012 Rockwood 8293RKSS
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L Cummins Turbodiesel 4x4; 2012 Ford Escape 4x4. 3 very pampered cats.
Days camped: 2011: 61; 2012: 66 Days; 2013: 69;2014: 68 2015: 90 Days camped 2016: 34
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