Originally Posted by V-Lite Fun
The plug is hot but there is no power at the switch.
Originally Posted by DougP47
Mine did the same thing. I found the electric side thermostat was open. I had to replace it. Turn the power off to WH then remove the cover with 2 reset buttons. Check each thermostat with an ohm meter. Chances are the meter will show an open on one of them. I hope this helps Best of luck
If there is truly no power to the electric switch, it is inline BEFORE the hi-limit/thermostat (this is what is under the rubber covers that you are pushing to reset). If the hi-limit/thermostat is bad, although it would cause no power to reach the element, it would be after the switch, and wouldn't cause any power failing to at least get to that point....assuming there is no electric at the switch.
If the switch does turn out to be good, then the next place to check for voltage is both sides of the ECO hi-limit/thermostat.
Here are some schematics for the SW?DE (only one inside switch for the propane)
but if you have two inside switches (one for propane, and another for the electric), here is the schematic for the SW?DEL. You would have a 12 volt inside switch that controls a relay that then allows 120 volt power to flow to the outside switch, hi-limit/thermostat, and to the heating element.
As you can see from the schematics, you cannot check for voltage on the switch using the terminals only since they are both connected to the same single hot line. You have to check each terminal side with only the positive probe and then place the negative on a ground...being there is no neutral wire connected to the switch (only a hot). The same holds true for both sides of the hi-limit/thermostat too.
Now once you get to the electric element, there is a hot and neutral wire connected to it, so you can check for voltage on it between the two terminals.