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Old 07-05-2013, 07:55 PM   #1
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Suburban water heater problem

We have the SW10DE model equipped with both electric and LP gas heaters.

LP gas part works fine.

Electric part was working fine so far this season but lately, does not seem to be heating the water. I checked the fuses and breakers in the distribution panel. The fuse for the water heater appears solid, and the breaker was switched off then back on. I pressed both the "RESET" buttons on the front of the water heater, and removed the plastic cover to confirm both fusible links (AC and DC) are good and intact. The on/off switch for the electric control is "on". The tank was never empty since the last time the electric heating element heated the water effectively.

Aside from removing the electric heating element and testing for continuity, am I missing something?
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Old 07-05-2013, 08:07 PM   #2
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If you have a multimeter, see if you have 120 volts ac across the heater terminals.
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Old 07-05-2013, 08:33 PM   #3
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If you disconnect the wires from the element and ohm the element out if you get a reading it is not the entitlement. Mine just did the same thing I would only get luke warm water on electric. I installed a new stat and I'm back to very hot water again.
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Old 07-05-2013, 08:42 PM   #4
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Water heater

Quote:
Originally Posted by fonzie View Post
If you have a multimeter, see if you have 120 volts ac across the heater terminals.
In addition to that, if you don't have 120 across the heater when on, check the "thermostat" which is the round device attached to the OL link and below the reset button. The thermostat is under the small cylinder and if not closing with cool water the element cannot turn on. When the water warms to temp this thermo will open to prevent overheating. Mine failed last year. Its all one assembly, thermo, OL link and the reset button for high temp.
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Old 07-06-2013, 10:04 AM   #5
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I will check the heating element next time I get to the rig. I will check to see if 120 volts is getting to the element, and with wires removed, I will check for continuity across the element.

With the suggestion of replacing the thermostat unit (which includes the thermo, link and reset button) where can you get one, and approximately what price range?

Thanks all.
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Old 07-06-2013, 10:12 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenandterry
I will check the heating element next time I get to the rig. I will check to see if 120 volts is getting to the element, and with wires removed, I will check for continuity across the element.

With the suggestion of replacing the thermostat unit (which includes the thermo, link and reset button) where can you get one, and approximately what price range?

Thanks all.
Dometic choice of set temps i remem about 34.00, CW, PPL and other net providers high 20's? They don't fail often, but they do fail regular! Warranted for two years.
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Old 07-06-2013, 02:52 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenandterry View Post
I will check the heating element next time I get to the rig. I will check to see if 120 volts is getting to the element, and with wires removed, I will check for continuity across the element.

With the suggestion of replacing the thermostat unit (which includes the thermo, link and reset button) where can you get one, and approximately what price range?

Thanks all.
Mine was under warranty but the price tag on it said $39.00.......
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Old 07-06-2013, 03:44 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Dometic choice of set temps i remem about 34.00, CW, PPL and other net providers high 20's? They don't fail often, but they do fail regular! Warranted for two years.
So sorry, I specified Dometic instead of Suburban as source of thermo...

Too many posts lately about awning failures!
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