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Old 07-25-2015, 06:21 PM   #11
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Done traveling for the and am catching up here. As another test that I tried that I read on a old thread was to try a jumper wire across the high limit switch. When I do that I get a smart which indicate electricity up to that point. Wouldn't that point be beyond the module and the module would be ok?
I have not studied Herks schematic yet.
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Old 07-25-2015, 06:25 PM   #12
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All the connections are tight, but there might be corrosion underneath then. I will check it when I get back to the RV.
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Old 07-25-2015, 06:29 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Blaster 84 View Post
Done traveling for the and am catching up here. As another test that I tried that I read on a old thread was to try a jumper wire across the high limit switch. When I do that I get a smart which indicate electricity up to that point. Wouldn't that point be beyond the module and the module would be ok?
I have not studied Herks schematic yet.
The module is downstream from the limit switch which should be closed.
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Old 07-25-2015, 07:37 PM   #14
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Mine had a cut off in the gas line at the heater valve. A small inline valve. Just a small screwdriver to open or close it. One time i forgot I had closed it and went crazy trying to diagnose the "no fire" dellima. Sorry, no pictures, that unit gone.
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Old 07-25-2015, 09:08 PM   #15
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I had a regulator go bad on my propane system and here are some of the symptoms.
The stove would work fine.
The refer would slowly warm up during an 8 hour drive day.
The furnace would ignite and run for a few minutes then the flame would go out, it would then try to relight and you could hear a small explosion then burn for a few seconds then start the process over again.
I don't know about the hot water heater because we always use it on electric.
I hope this helps.
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Old 07-27-2015, 09:30 AM   #16
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Just change the gas valve

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I have a Suburban water heater, Model SW4D, that will not heat on the gas part. I am not even getting and any attempt of the igniter to ignite the gas. I do not smell any gas. Electric heating element works fine. I checked the high temp limit switch with an Ohm Meter and also a jumper wire with no results.
I do have gas as my bottles are full and the range works fine. I have a feeling the problem is the gas valve.
Does anyone have any suggestions for me to try to verify my diagnosis?
Had the same issue last year on my 2010 5er and after I checked I had gas to the valve but none out, so just have the gas valve changed like I did and it will be fine.
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Old 07-31-2015, 08:41 AM   #17
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Problem solved. I don't know what I did or if I did anything. When I got this morning I accidentally turned on the gas switch instead of the water pump and I heard the gas come on.
Thanks for everyone's input and I'll download the manuals for future reference.
I did find out that WW Grainger also carries these gas valves. But I can't speak to what the price might be compared to an RV supplier.
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