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Old 01-03-2016, 07:59 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by episodic View Post
I could get to the anode, but the element is squarely behind the propane assembly.
Correct, you'll most likely need to remove the burner tube.

KyDan has a tutorial on the replacement of the element in the FAQ section, link below. It may help if you ever have to go that route.

Suburban water heater electric element R&R

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Old 01-03-2016, 08:02 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by episodic View Post
I could get to the anode, but the element is squarely behind the propane assembly.
Sorry for the bad info. That does make it more of a challenge. Good luck.

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Old 01-04-2016, 11:57 AM   #13
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If the singing stops when not using the electric element, could this indicate a faulty high limit switch on that side? After a cool down, you might pull the anode and flush the tank of any mineral build up. Good way to see if the tank has been contaminated.
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Old 01-04-2016, 01:59 PM   #14
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From Suburban's Installation and Operating Manual:
"The temperature and pressure relief valve is designed to open if the temperature
of the water within the heater reaches 210F,or if the water pressure in the heater
reaches 150 pounds. Recreational vehicle water systems are closed systems and
during the water heating cycle the pressure build-up in the water system will reach
150 pounds. When this pressure is reached,the pressure relief valve will open
and water will drip from the valve. This dripping will continue until the pressure is reduced to below 150 pounds,and the valve closes.This condition is normal and
does not indicate a defective relief valve"
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Old 01-04-2016, 02:25 PM   #15
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Pinging - I've never seen an electric hot water heating element that, after a period of time, did NOT ping. It is due to scaling on the element building up, and when the element energizes, differential expansion of the scaled element results if this 'pinging". As for the "squealing" - Appears to not be a water heater originated sound (squeal happens both hot and cold). Most (all?) hot water heaters do not have integral check valves. Suburban further recommends a check valve not be installed immediately at intake of heater. There is however, a check valve at the city water intake hose connection. Check valves can squeal at initiation of flow through them. To test, I'd disconnect city water, turn on unit water pump, then open faucets - if no squeal, noise is likely from the city water inlet check valve. Changing water regulator pressure pressure may remedy issue.
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Old 01-04-2016, 08:52 PM   #16
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Try hooking up your water connection without the regulator, some times they squeal when you use any water tap.
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Old 01-06-2016, 11:10 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by RSchleder View Post
Try opening the pressure release valve for an instant and close it immediately. Sometimes this will reseat the valve plunger and stop the slight leaking. Of course, be extremely careful not to get burned with the hot water spraying from the valve when it's open for an instant. Also, a few light taps with the handle of a screw driver on the flip latch of the valve will also seat it and stop the dripping. Try the tap on the flip latch before you try the instant open, be safer and less mess if it works!

PS- take the pressure off the system with either of these processes for best results!
I agree that the valve may not be seething properly. However before opening that relief valve I would take all the pressure off. Water tank by opening the hot water valves at the sink. You will need to show your water supply off first and then shut your electric off at the heater. Then drain the pressure and then open and close the relief valve a few times. Then turn the water back on and then turn the electric on.

I also agree it is possible to supply water is that too high of a pressure. I always use a pressure valve on my supply water. They are cheap and well worth having.


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