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Old 04-24-2015, 06:31 PM   #11
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Yep

Yep! That's exactly the mess I see. And the helpful schmatic provided by FR is a joke....like are you serious??!!
Once I spend more time and get this figured out, I will take my label maker and make my own !!

I will tape it inside that panel box so NO repeat issues next time.

I guess simplicity is too expensive 😁
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Old 04-24-2015, 07:17 PM   #12
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I thought the DSI light would stay on after the three amepts and if the burner did not light it would stay light up. Did on mine. Now when it's not lit up (light) you can hear the burner running.


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Old 04-25-2015, 09:35 AM   #13
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Question for all..... If at the time of de-winterizing you fill, flush, prep, and then decide to roll the rocker switch on the water heater element, is there a way to do a quick check and verify the operation of the element? I normally just wait align propane and the quick heat side of the WH will ignite the propane...... Just trying to learn...
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Old 04-25-2015, 05:54 PM   #14
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Should be able to hear the element sizzling in a bit.


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Old 04-26-2015, 09:52 AM   #15
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So, I MAY have fried my electric element. Since there is no tell tale sign, I am going to buy a back up and take it with me to the mountains so I am prepared to replace it if necessary. I assume that for SAFETY, I disconnect all current to the RV from the docking station AND disconnect the battery. Anything else?

Also, am confused on HOW TO TELL IF THE WATER HEATER IS FULL?! On my 2011 Outback, I assumed when I pulled the top pressure relief valve that when water flowed, it was safe to turn the switches "ON". I assume further that regardless if the levers were in the incorrect position, water would normally heat, the flow would simply be blocked, correct?!

I think with my first de winterization of the Silverback, I may have flipped the switch inadvertently too quickly.

The Outback had 2 switches. One on the outside as we now have AND one inside the interior control panel. BOTH needed to be ON to get hot water. Also the tubing "nest" was a lot easier to navigate.

Not complaining. Love our Silverback and no regrets. Just have to get past these first few hiccups👌
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Old 04-26-2015, 06:45 PM   #16
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I just flipped the breaker inside the camper when I change my electric element. Think a test light or multi meter would show you if current is going they the element. Would be careful just in case the water is hot inside the heater.

I just turn on the hot water in the bathroom and kitchen till water runs steady and clear of air(small bubbles or cloudy look). And then turn on the power. Sure there is better ways but works for me.


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Old 04-26-2015, 07:01 PM   #17
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Not SURE why the DSI light went out. But, the pressure relief had water and it was luke warm, not hot! I am thinking the electric came on and tripped off for some reason. DSI may never have ignited to begin with. Was in storage for 3 months at dealer. One tank was empty and the other was open and 3/4 full of propane. I will try to light the STOVE and see if I have gas flow. 2nd, I will see if I have an electric breaker popped someplace.

I may be old, but with age comes experiences, mostly good!! ��
Luke warm water is usually an indicator that the valves on the water heater are not in the correct position. It sounds like you have cold water mixing with the hot water. The valves should look like the first pic.


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This would be right if he checked the water temp at one of the faucets, but he checked the water at the temp/pressure safety valve, the position of the bypass would have nothing to do with the temp. As long as the tank was full and he got water out of it, it should be at full temp. If the tank was not completely full and the electric element was not completely submerged it could have burnt out before the water came up to full temp.

It is unusual that the light on the gas portion went out, I thought the light indicated a faulty attempt at lighting.
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Old 04-26-2015, 07:16 PM   #18
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Also be sure to disconnect city water if using it. Then open a faucet until water stops. If you unscrew the heating element when the system is pressurized, the it can shoot out.
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Old 04-26-2015, 07:31 PM   #19
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Also be sure to disconnect city water if using it. Then open a faucet until water stops. If you unscrew the heating element when the system is pressurized, the anode rod will shoot out.
How can that happen, the heating element and anode are 2 different items?

If you unscrew the anode does the heating element shoot out?
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Old 04-26-2015, 07:56 PM   #20
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How can that happen, the heating element and anode are 2 different items?

If you unscrew the anode does the heating element shoot out?
WOW typo . Phone call in the middle of typing message. If you remove either anode or heating element with the tank pressurized, you will get a surprise. Once you remove one, pressure released and other is no issue.
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