Suburban WH

[SilverbackMel]

Just back from the mountains and de winterizing my 2015 Silverback with Surburban water heater.

I "thought" that I waited until tank was full and tested by tug on pressure relief valve BEFOREHAND flipping electric switch.

To accelerate heat of water, I flipped DSI switch, red light came on. Heard it trying to ignite so I was distracted and moved on to other projects. After 20 minutes, no hot water! Went to cabinet: DSI light was out. Went outside felt tank: cold.

So, any experience and advice will be appreciated and tried this weekend.
Thanks in advance for anticipated comments.

I did bring home my Surburban brochure and will be reading it line by line as well.

So: overall; no hot water.
Electric: ? Any fuses or?? Trip breakers??
Gas: no ignition.

[spock123]

You make sure your gas was on, try to light your stove to check your lp


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[OldCoot]

The DSI will only try 3 or 4 times and then shut down, just turn the switch off and back on. Light your stove burners and purge the air out of the lines also.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by SilverbackMel

Just back from the mountains and de winterizing my 2015 Silverback with Surburban water heater.

I "thought" that I waited until tank was full and tested by tug on pressure relief valve BEFOREHAND flipping electric switch.

To accelerate heat of water, I flipped DSI switch, red light came on. Heard it trying to ignite so I was distracted and moved on to other projects. After 20 minutes, no hot water! Went to cabinet: DSI light was out. Went outside felt tank: cold.

So, any experience and advice will be appreciated and tried this weekend.
Thanks in advance for anticipated comments.

I did bring home my Surburban brochure and will be reading it line by line as well.

So: overall; no hot water.
Electric: ? Any fuses or?? Trip breakers??
Gas: no ignition.

Couple thoughts: If you have three valves, are you sure the hot water outlet valve is open. If you have the cold water inlet valve open to the water heater, it will allow water into the heater like it's supposed to especially if the bypass valve is also still open, but you won't get hot water out if the outlet valve is closed. I would flip the pressure relief valve up again to get water out, and see if its hot. If so, then you may have valves set incorrect. You said the tank was cold, so this is probably not the cause, but won't hurt to check. I would check all 3 valves again for correct position.

If the gas failed to light after 3 attempts, then the system goes into lockout mode. You have to turn off the DSI switch, then back on again to reset the lockout. Are you sure you have propane, and the tanks are open. You might want to burn the stove for a little to purge excess air out of the propane lines first.......especially if it's been in storage for awhile.

[donanddona]

If your DSI light was out? Wouldn't that mean the thermocouple sensed the correct temp? I'm not an expert but I'm thinking the electric element would bring it up to temp or the thermocouple sensed proper temp and the propane valve closed as it should. Have you popped the relief on the water heater to test water heater temperature? So... yea recheck the valve alignment on the water heater.

[SilverbackMel]

Not SURE why the DSI light went out. But, the pressure relief had water and it was luke warm, not hot! I am thinking the electric came on and tripped off for some reason. DSI may never have ignited to begin with. Was in storage for 3 months at dealer. One tank was empty and the other was open and 3/4 full of propane. I will try to light the STOVE and see if I have gas flow. 2nd, I will see if I have an electric breaker popped someplace.
Thanks for the input. Was going up tomorrow, but, N Georgia has severe storm warning!! That's why we have insurance.
Our R Ranch had a tornado 20 years ago, 1 death and total clubhouse destruction. I ain't stay'n in no RV if I am not boxed in with no alternative place better, like AWAY, FAR AWAY!!
I may be old, but with age comes experiences, mostly good!! 😊

[OldCoot]

DSI will try 3 times and go off and it has to be turned off and then on again and then it will try 3 more times and go off. It will just keep repeating that sequence until it starts the burner.

[Oakman]

Originally Posted by SilverbackMel

Not SURE why the DSI light went out. But, the pressure relief had water and it was luke warm, not hot! I am thinking the electric came on and tripped off for some reason. DSI may never have ignited to begin with. Was in storage for 3 months at dealer. One tank was empty and the other was open and 3/4 full of propane. I will try to light the STOVE and see if I have gas flow. 2nd, I will see if I have an electric breaker popped someplace.

I may be old, but with age comes experiences, mostly good!! ��

Luke warm water is usually an indicator that the valves on the water heater are not in the correct position. It sounds like you have cold water mixing with the hot water. The valves should look like the first pic.

[SilverbackMel]

Tnx for the diagram. Hard to tell when whacking your head behind the panel.
They should furnish helmets with every RV. I am sure after 5 years of fifth wheels and every one of them different, walking into the hitch, raising up too soon and just blindly walking into the side of the RV without stooping, should have concern for being early disabled!
I do frequently NOW wear a bicycle helmet when working outdoors on the RV.

Old Coot....tnx for the 3 strikes and reset tip.

Between all of this AND using a surge unit for the first time, I will get it handled. Live and learn.

[Oakman]

I hear you about head whacking and fifth wheels SilverbackMel. I’ve done quite a bit of that myself LOL.

I’m sure you have the same bird’s nest of electrical wires, hydraulic lines, and plumbing by the water heater like I have in my Silverback. Accessing the valves on the back of the water heater can be quite a challenge for this old man.

Here are a couple of pics. When you slide the access panel out of the way you are greeted with this. The water heater can barely be seen.



Here’s a photo of the three valves on the back of the water heater. The bottom one is a bear (Silverback) to reach.

[SilverbackMel]

Yep! That's exactly the mess I see. And the helpful schmatic provided by FR is a joke....like are you serious??!!
Once I spend more time and get this figured out, I will take my label maker and make my own !!

I will tape it inside that panel box so NO repeat issues next time.

I guess simplicity is too expensive 😁

[arpipeliner]

I thought the DSI light would stay on after the three amepts and if the burner did not light it would stay light up. Did on mine. Now when it's not lit up (light) you can hear the burner running.


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[donanddona]

Question for all..... If at the time of de-winterizing you fill, flush, prep, and then decide to roll the rocker switch on the water heater element, is there a way to do a quick check and verify the operation of the element? I normally just wait align propane and the quick heat side of the WH will ignite the propane...... Just trying to learn...

[arpipeliner]

Should be able to hear the element sizzling in a bit.


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[SilverbackMel]

So, I MAY have fried my electric element. Since there is no tell tale sign, I am going to buy a back up and take it with me to the mountains so I am prepared to replace it if necessary. I assume that for SAFETY, I disconnect all current to the RV from the docking station AND disconnect the battery. Anything else?

Also, am confused on HOW TO TELL IF THE WATER HEATER IS FULL?! On my 2011 Outback, I assumed when I pulled the top pressure relief valve that when water flowed, it was safe to turn the switches "ON". I assume further that regardless if the levers were in the incorrect position, water would normally heat, the flow would simply be blocked, correct?!

I think with my first de winterization of the Silverback, I may have flipped the switch inadvertently too quickly.

The Outback had 2 switches. One on the outside as we now have AND one inside the interior control panel. BOTH needed to be ON to get hot water. Also the tubing "nest" was a lot easier to navigate.

Not complaining. Love our Silverback and no regrets. Just have to get past these first few hiccups👌

[arpipeliner]

I just flipped the breaker inside the camper when I change my electric element. Think a test light or multi meter would show you if current is going they the element. Would be careful just in case the water is hot inside the heater.

I just turn on the hot water in the bathroom and kitchen till water runs steady and clear of air(small bubbles or cloudy look). And then turn on the power. Sure there is better ways but works for me.


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[Filthy Beast]

Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverbackMel View Post
Not SURE why the DSI light went out. But, the pressure relief had water and it was luke warm, not hot! I am thinking the electric came on and tripped off for some reason. DSI may never have ignited to begin with. Was in storage for 3 months at dealer. One tank was empty and the other was open and 3/4 full of propane. I will try to light the STOVE and see if I have gas flow. 2nd, I will see if I have an electric breaker popped someplace.

I may be old, but with age comes experiences, mostly good!! ��
Luke warm water is usually an indicator that the valves on the water heater are not in the correct position. It sounds like you have cold water mixing with the hot water. The valves should look like the first pic.


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This would be right if he checked the water temp at one of the faucets, but he checked the water at the temp/pressure safety valve, the position of the bypass would have nothing to do with the temp. As long as the tank was full and he got water out of it, it should be at full temp. If the tank was not completely full and the electric element was not completely submerged it could have burnt out before the water came up to full temp.

It is unusual that the light on the gas portion went out, I thought the light indicated a faulty attempt at lighting.

[Flybob]

Also be sure to disconnect city water if using it. Then open a faucet until water stops. If you unscrew the heating element when the system is pressurized, the it can shoot out.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Flybob

Also be sure to disconnect city water if using it. Then open a faucet until water stops. If you unscrew the heating element when the system is pressurized, the anode rod will shoot out.

How can that happen, the heating element and anode are 2 different items?

If you unscrew the anode does the heating element shoot out?

[Flybob]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

How can that happen, the heating element and anode are 2 different items?

If you unscrew the anode does the heating element shoot out?

WOW typo . Phone call in the middle of typing message. If you remove either anode or heating element with the tank pressurized, you will get a surprise. Once you remove one, pressure released and other is no issue.