SW6DE water heater burner not lighting.

[JStrickland]

The burner has stopped lighting. The igniter is functioning but there is no gas delivery.

[wmtire]

Easiest thing first:

Do you have propane in your tank(s) and are they open so propane can get to the water heater. The heater will try a few times to ignite then go into lockout mode if it fails to light. You have to turn off the inside switch, then back on to reset the lockout.

Does your furnace work, and/or stove currently....to see if there is a propane delivery problem.

[JStrickland]

Yes all other propane appliances work correctly.

[JStrickland]

When I turn off/on the inside switch to reset, the igniter comes on the three times. No smell of gas. Not sure if this would be the board or the gas valve. Last week I could feel the gas valve opening/closing during burner operation and causing the flame to go out. Maybe the valve has finally failed.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by JStrickland

Maybe the valve has finally failed.

That could very well be.

Any chance your battery is low or are you hooked up to shore power. The reason I ask is low 12 volt power can cause it all not to function correctly.

[JStrickland]

Apologize. Yes I am on shore power.

[arpipeliner]

If you have a multi meter. You should be able to pull the wires up but not off the coils on the valve and see if current is going thru. Both coils have to open at the same time to allow propane thru. One coil working and the other not will stop gas flow.

There are others ways to check the coils too. If no current at the coils while striker is sparking. You have an electric breakdown from the hi stat, switch, or motherboard.


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by JStrickland

Apologize. Yes I am on shore power.

Page 15 of the following pdf may show you how to test the valve:

http://hometips.me/mar/suburban_wate...ice_manual.pdf

[JStrickland]

Thank you both. I will borrow a meter and check voltage coming from the board to the valve. I will check the .pdf also.

[arpipeliner]

Wmtire is going the right way. My ways can break it so you can fix it.


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[JStrickland]

Ok I have 12v from the board at the Gas Valve terminals. I unplugged each one separately and only one solenoid is working...looks like I will be ordering a Gas Valve. Seem correct to you two?

[JStrickland]

I noticed that I do not have a bypass/shut off valve between my hot and cold outlets of the water heater. Am I "losing" some of my hot water to the cold side? It definitely looks easy enough to get a valve and close it to have separation of hot/cold.

[youroo]

What unit is this W/H in? What age? Youroo!!

[arpipeliner]

If only one solenoid working the whole valve has to be changed. They do not sell the solenoid for safety reasons. Can shop around and find prices from $90 to $150 if you are changing it. Would take pictures to make sure the wiring will be correct.


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[RedRollingRoadblock]

EDIT
Go to http://www.rvdealership.com/rvdstore/
In the Category drop down box select Water Heaters.
In the search box enter 3475.
White-Rodgers coil will pop up.
Order it, install it and enjoy your hot water.
END EDIT

Try digging around at PPL Motorhome parts site. RV Parts and Accessories for Sale - PPL Motor Homes
They had the single solenoid for around $30 but that was several years ago. It is a White-Rodgers part and it seems as though it was listed under the Atwood water heaters. Same solenoid. I may have the information at the MH but going to be several days till I can look for it.

I don't have time right now to research but I also posted this on rv.net too maybe five years ago. Might do a search there and see if you can find it.