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Old 01-17-2013, 11:19 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by bakken View Post
Just a question;
Is the OP talking about actual TANK heaters, or the heating pads attached to the outlet pipes?
My impression was he was unfamiliar with the arrangement and operation of the tank heaters. The only way the dump valves can freeze shut is if the water in the tank is freezing and splashes on the valve seal.

The tank heater would be overwhelmed trying to bring the frozen water up to liquid state.

The pipe heaters are only located in areas where water can pool outside the tank; typically at elbows or sections of pipe just prior to an end of run dump valve some distance from the tank. (see photo of pipe heater on web site)
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:32 PM   #32
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We spent two weeks over the Christmas holiday on the road with below freezing temperatures every single night. We had 2F (minus 17 c ) temperatures at least one night. The water and drain systems functioned quite well AFTER my sweet husband removed the plastic baffle in the water compartment where the water filter / water pump live. That allowed heat from the furnace ducts to keep the water pump from freezing. The system functions well BUT Arctic packs alone will not work you have to have the furnace operating as well OR if you are using electric heaters circulate the warm air into the underbelly through the ducts. Some thermostats have a fan only setting which would allow you to do that. Ours doesn't there is a modification here on this forum that shows how to re-wire the blower from the furnace so it can operate independently. That's on our list! I also purchased a tiny ceramic heater - 200 watts to use in the water filter / pump compartment if need be to warm things up - but it hasn't been necessary. I bought ($10 at Walmart) a wireless indoor outdoor thermometer to keep track of temperatures in the water system. Even in single digits driving on the road the temperature in has been at 32. I'm planning on adding some insulation to the water pump/filter compartment to help hold in the heat.
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:52 PM   #33
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I was talking about the heating pads on the tank bottoms. My TT has nothing on the pipes between the tanks and the valves. It will have to be a mod if I do this again.
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Old 01-21-2013, 11:26 PM   #34
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Red face how many heaters?

I just picked up my new 2013 275VRL fiver and was reading this post when I couldn't figure out what the "tank heater" switch.

I checked it today and found that the "heater" was pulling 9 amps. Does that mean that I have only 1 pad down there. It wasn't very cold so maybe one or more were shut off.

I will check it next time it is cold and I am out with the camper to see what the amperage draw is. I have the cold weather package I think, but am not really sure of anything. I can't even figure what kind of charger it has without taking the electrical panel out and looking in there. I wonder what amps it is rated for. It seemed ot keep up when I turned on all the lights (16 amps) and the tank heater (9 amps) so it is at least 25 amps, I guess.

In my recently traded in 2008 Lakota, I could see all that stuff preatty easily. The V-Cross has everything hidden, pretty much.

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Old 01-22-2013, 03:31 AM   #35
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So with these tank heaters in place and being a full timer whats the story on running the tank heaters while the grey valves/tanks are open and empty. Will it damage the tank if it is mostly empty..?

I have temps in the negative digits every night and so far have had no problems with freezing. I have insulated my water hose incoming and the lines that are visible in the passthrough and forward storage as well as the valve / water filter box. Black tank valve is closed and both grey tank valves are open and most important the water is turned on and left running. I also have to small space heaters one on the floor by the bathroom and the second on the floor in the kitchen. They keep our place a cozy 70 ( Canadian eh..!) The propane furnace is set to turn on should it drop by 3 degrees insuring heat everywhere also a secondary backup in case the power goes out while I am out.

Is this a good idea or ?? Just about everyone around me runs a similar set up if not the same and we have had no issues...........
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:10 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garbonz View Post
I checked it today and found that the "heater" was pulling 9 amps. Does that mean that I have only 1 pad down there. It wasn't very cold so maybe one or more were shut off. Garbonz
UltraHeat - Pipe Heaters

Depending on the model heating pad that is stuck to your tanks, 9 volts is just about right for 2 tanks running of the 4.5 amp models OR if you are on battery and the DCV is not 13.5 volts (something less) it could be the 5 amp model, just pulling reduced amps due to the less than 13.5 condition.

You are correct, that the pads will modulate on their own based on the temperature of the THAT tank. The temp will depend on whether there is water and how much.

With a full tank the heater will be on a long time to heat the water; then off a long time while it cools down. An empty tank will be on almost all the time because there is no heat sink to hold the heat and the plastic will cool quickly.
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:12 AM   #37
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So with these tank heaters in place and being a full timer whats the story on running the tank heaters while the grey valves/tanks are open and empty. Will it damage the tank if it is mostly empty..?

I have temps in the negative digits every night and so far have had no problems with freezing. I have insulated my water hose incoming and the lines that are visible in the passthrough and forward storage as well as the valve / water filter box. Black tank valve is closed and both grey tank valves are open and most important the water is turned on and left running. I also have to small space heaters one on the floor by the bathroom and the second on the floor in the kitchen. They keep our place a cozy 70 ( Canadian eh..!) The propane furnace is set to turn on should it drop by 3 degrees insuring heat everywhere also a secondary backup in case the power goes out while I am out.

Is this a good idea or ?? Just about everyone around me runs a similar set up if not the same and we have had no issues...........
If it works for you great! My only suggestion is to keep the gray valve closed until you dump, too. Kitchen waste and grease will stick to the walls and eventually your indicator probes in the gray tank will stop working.
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