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11-10-2014, 11:31 PM
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#41
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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I was thinking of the (Electrolysis) side of the Decomposing A-Rod. Youroo!!
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11-11-2014, 12:24 AM
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#42
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 10,446
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Folks,
The site team did some cleaning up in this thread. Let's keep this topic on track so that the OP and other members, especially with lesser experience, can find value in the feedback, even if we don't all agree.
Thanks!
PS
Some posts included in the clean up was due to other posts being deleted.
__________________
Great choice for "Living within my means" and camping for one...
Formerly owned 2011 Salem Cruise Lite 20RBXL & 2011 Toyota Tundra Dbl Cab
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11-11-2014, 08:43 AM
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#43
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrs Evans
Wish I had taken a pic of the anode, it was like almost gone even though we just bought the trailer in March 2014 and you can see in my signature that we haven't had that many nights camping.
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I ended up asking my DH if he wouldn't mind fishing the anode out of the garbage for me so now I have a pic to share. It would seem I exaggerated a bit. I guess when I first saw the anode come out it just looked so much more corroded that I expected and I still think it is more so than it would have been if we hadn't left it on for over the last month, but it's not almost gone This is why pics are so important
In any event the comment made by youroo brings up a question for me, do you think the anode would have looked like the pic below regardless of having left the water heater on for a month straight if you leave your water heater full of water? Or did leaving it on for a month straight contribute to the corrosion?
__________________
Michelle Evans
Katy, TX
2011 Carriage Cabo 341
2014 Wildwood 231RBXL - Traded Her In
2016 Days Camped = 5; Reserved = 14 so far
2015 Days Camped = 24 / 2014 Days Camped = 23
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11-11-2014, 09:12 AM
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#44
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youroo
I was thinking of the (Electrolysis) side of the Decomposing A-Rod. Youroo!!
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I was referring to (POST# 37) where she stated that they used all their Propane in 90 deg. weather over a period of time using the W/H! This leads me to believe that they were ONLY USING Propane! If they were using (BOTH E& Pro) the elec.side should have done ALL the Heating just (Sitting there)! This is ALL releveant to the O/P which is the A-Rod! My other Post was Removed was Also Relevant to the A-Rod! Youroo!!
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11-11-2014, 09:16 AM
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#45
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youroo
I was referring to (POST# 37) where she stated that they used all their Propane in 90 deg. weather over a period of time using the W/H! This leads me to believe that they were ONLY USING Propane! If they were using (BOTH E& Pro) the elec.side should have done ALL the Heating just (Sitting there)! This is ALL releveant to the O/P which is the A-Rod! My other Post was Removed was Also Relevant to the A-Rod! Youroo!!
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Oh, ok That was us that did that, our trailer is set-up so that the water heater is only propane, no electric option. I'm still curious if having it 'on' makes the anode corrode faster, it appears that way from my experience but maybe the rod was already corroding before we even bought the trailer, don't really know.
__________________
Michelle Evans
Katy, TX
2011 Carriage Cabo 341
2014 Wildwood 231RBXL - Traded Her In
2016 Days Camped = 5; Reserved = 14 so far
2015 Days Camped = 24 / 2014 Days Camped = 23
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11-11-2014, 09:20 AM
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#46
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrs Evans
I ended up asking my DH if he wouldn't mind fishing the anode out of the garbage for me so now I have a pic to share. It would seem I exaggerated a bit. I guess when I first saw the anode come out it just looked so much more corroded that I expected and I still think it is more so than it would have been if we hadn't left it on for over the last month, but it's not almost gone This is why pics are so important
In any event the comment made by youroo brings up a question for me, do you think the anode would have looked like the pic below regardless of having left the water heater on for a month straight if you leave your water heater full of water? Or did leaving it on for a month straight contribute to the corrosion?
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The anode might not have been eroded quite as bad without the heat because heat is a catalyst to the process, but it would have still been eroding as long as water is present.
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11-11-2014, 09:33 AM
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#47
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,443
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Understanding Your Anode Rod | PlumbingSupply.com Blog
this paragraph is from that article I posted that for those that wanted to read the whole thing.
"Anode rods have a life expectancy of about five years but again, it really depends mostly on the quality of your water and how much water travels through your water heater, as well as the qualities of your water. When sodium is added to the water (such as when a water softener is used), anode rods can corrode more quickly. Water softeners can help reduce sediment, but anodes can corrode in as little as six months if the water is over-softened, so try to leave a little bit of hardness in your water, for the sake of the water heater, and definitely make sure to check your anode rod a bit more often if you have a water softener."
Unless you are full timing your anode is more than likely safe for quite a while . more than likely you will replace as I did because the threads are worn from rust because the previous owner didn't put tape on it.
__________________
Think about things before you do them make life easier not harder.
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11-11-2014, 09:50 AM
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#48
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 526
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My DH and I have decided to drain and rinse our WH after every trip to try and keep the smelly bacteria away and extend the life of the a-rod. However, this will absolutely require that we never forget to turn off the system when we break camp! I figure by draining it after every trip, we'll at least notice if the water is hot and that will be a good reminder to turn it off, LOL! Just joking! I have a check-off list now Along with this we will periodically sanitize the whole water system at least every year, but more often if needed.
__________________
Michelle Evans
Katy, TX
2011 Carriage Cabo 341
2014 Wildwood 231RBXL - Traded Her In
2016 Days Camped = 5; Reserved = 14 so far
2015 Days Camped = 24 / 2014 Days Camped = 23
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11-11-2014, 10:10 AM
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#49
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrs Evans
Or did leaving it on for a month straight contribute to the corrosion?
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There are other factors besides just time. Usually the mineral content of the water is one of the largest contributing factors. Here is a link from the Rheem water heater site that helps explain the anode rod along with the rotten egg smell that many people encounter:
http://www.rheem.com/docs/FetchDocum...3-b0ed9abe41cd
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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11-11-2014, 02:23 PM
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#50
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Always Learning
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Four Corners, FL
Posts: 21,888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhochst
The camper is brand new this last September. Probably need to replace. We have bad hard water here.
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This is my original anode from July 2012 when the camper was new. We regularly sanitize the system but rarely leave the water water empty (we camp pretty frequently).
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Officially a SOB with a 2022 Jayco Precept 36C
Checkout my site for RVing tips, tricks, and info | Was a Fulltime Family for 5 years, now we're part-timing on long trips
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11-16-2014, 09:26 PM
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#51
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Ohio North Coast
Posts: 569
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Easy way to clean the anode rod is to let it soak in a glass or jar of white vinegar for a hour or so. This does an excellent job of cleaning it.
Bob
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2013 Ford F250 SD 6.7L
2014 Wildwood Heritage Glen 282RK
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