Water Heater Bypass - Am I missing something?

[kantonburg]

We have two more trips planned, but I'm getting myself familiar with everything to winterize after Halloween. I must be missing something here. The pictures I took of the valve system. Please explain to me how this bypasses the water heater all together.

Edit: I wanted to clarify that I was trying to understand this system. It seems to be that water has to go through the water heater no matter what unless the valve on the bottom diverts the water bypassing the cold inlet? Most valves are on and off correct?

Also the box just lying in the floor. Should that be mounted somewhere?

Don't mind the wood shavings. I'll be getting those as soon as it cools down a little. Thanks FR!

[rockfordroo]

Looks like they've combined the bypass valve and the cold water inlet valve into a single 3-way valve.

I would assume you'd turn the handle up to be in parallel with the red line, and close the hot water outlet valve and you'd be ready to winterize.

[Hutch333id]

It looks like the two valves on the HW system need to be moved in to their closed position (90o from where they are pictured right now). That would stop cold supply water running into the bottom of the tank and water drains out from the top end into the red hot water pipes. Most systems I have seen have a third valve in the vertical pipe that links the hot water supply and the cold water feed. Evidently, yours doesn't so not to worry. I can only think the valve on the cold supply is a three way valve that opens the link when it closes the cold supply.

As for the electronic box; I'm not sure what that is but it looks suspiciously like the back end of a thermostat controller. Whatever it is I would want it mount off the floor it it was mine - just to reduce the possibility of water getting in there if there was ever a leak.

[Teamfour]

This may help...

[rockfordroo]

Except his doesn't look like your pic, that's why he's asking.

[OldCoot]

Picture shows 2 valves, one on the hot and one on the cold.

[BooBoo23]

There may be a check valve on the outlet side of the WH. I don't have a third valve on my WH. The three way valve eliminates the valve between the hot and cold lines.

[wmtire]

The winterizations valves and total number of, differ between RV's.

You can have only one (which uses internal backflow preventers to keep water only flowing one way).

You can have three, which has manual valves to shut off cold water into the tank, and water from backflowing into the tank via the hot water line, once you open up the crossover valve.

You can also have two valves, like you do. You just have the cold water inlet and crossover line using one valve...and then the hot water outlet line on another valve.

On your system, when the valve handle is parallel with the line, then it's open. Your first pic shows the cold water inlet (blue)line as open and water flowing into the tank. Since the line is open, the crossover(bypass) red line is closed, so no water can flow thru it.

You also have the top valve open, so water can flow out of the tank once it's heated (red lines).

To bypass your system, you just change the position of the bottom valve so water can not enter the tank and goes to the crossover line (into hot water line). Now since cold water is going into the hot water line, it would backfill the tank unless you ALSO close off the top hot water line outlet valve.

This link explains the winterization process, and I edited your pic somewhat to help too.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...st-103381.html

In the pic edit below. The first sentence for each valve is how you want it for normal use. The second sentence is for winterization and the hot water tank bypassed so you can add antifreeze to the cold and hot water lines...all explained in the link above.

[Herk7769]

This is the "Two Valve" system. There is no check valve in a 2 valve system.

Thank you for a GREAT photo of a 2 valve winterizing setup.

To winterize:

Rotate the bottom valve to vertical so it is pointed up. Then close the outlet valve (rotate so the arm is pointing away from the Styrofoam body).

Then DRAIN (and NOT before you close those valves!) from the outside drain outlet. Draining the hot water heater using the low point drains will draw sediment and calcium/anode bits into your cold water pipes causing all kinds of headaches next spring.

[kantonburg]

Originally Posted by wmtire

The winterizations valves and total number of, differ between RV's.

You can have only one (which uses internal backflow preventers to keep water only flowing one way).

You can have three, which has manual valves to shut off cold water into the tank, and water from backflowing into the tank via the hot water line, once you open up the crossover valve.

You can also have two valves, like you do. You just have the cold water inlet and crossover line using one valve...and then the hot water outlet line on another valve.

On your system, when the valve handle is parallel with the line, then it's open. Your first pic shows the cold water inlet (blue)line as open and water flowing into the tank. Since the line is open, the crossover(bypass) red line is closed, so no water can flow thru it.

You also have the top valve open, so water can flow out of the tank once it's heated (red lines).

To bypass your system, you just change the position of the bottom valve so water can not enter the tank and goes to the crossover line (into hot water line). Now since cold water is going into the hot water line, it would backfill the tank unless you ALSO close off the top hot water line outlet valve.

This link explains the winterization process, and I edited your pic somewhat to help too.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...st-103381.html

In the pic edit below. The first sentence for each valve is how you want it for normal use. The second sentence is for winterization and the hot water tank bypassed so you can add antifreeze to the cold and hot water lines...all explained in the link above.

Thank you for the description and picture. Knowing it's a 3 way valve makes sense.

[kantonburg]

Originally Posted by Herk7769

This is the "Two Valve" system. There is no check valve in a 2 valve system.

Thank you for a GREAT photo of a 2 valve winterizing setup.

To winterize:

Rotate the bottom valve to vertical so it is pointed up. Then close the outlet valve (rotate so the arm is pointing away from the Styrofoam body).

Then DRAIN (and NOT before you close those valves!) from the outside drain outlet. Draining the hot water heater using the low point drains will draw sediment and calcium/anode bits into your cold water pipes causing all kinds of headaches next spring.

Thanks Herk,

I read your post earlier in the day in the mod section about making sure to close the valves before you drain the water heater. That is what led me to look at my valve setup and ultimately this thread

[waiter21]

Your valves don't select ON-OFF, but instead, select the route the water will take. In one position, water goes straight through and into (or out of) the water heater, in the other position, water turns 90 degrees and goes down the tube that bypasses the water heater.

Look at the handle on the valve, thats the patch the water will take.

NOTE. HOW I WINTERIZE MY WATER HEATER

I place the water heater valves in bypass.

Drain the water heater, remove the drain plug and open the over pressure valve. Leave the drain plug removed and store it in a baggie or something inside the water heater compartment.

After I've pumped antifreeze through the rest of the plumbing, my final step is to momentary open one of the bypass valves on the water heater so a little antifreeze will go into the water heater.

This will prevent any water pockets from freezing and also acts as a preservative and anti corrosion agent inside the water heater.

(Note, I'm not filling the water heater with antifreeze, just a little in the bottom to displace the water

[rockfordroo]

The small amount of water in your WH won't hurt anything as it has lots of room to expand. Also, be aware that Suburban WHs have an anode attached to the drain plug.

[kantonburg]

Originally Posted by Herk7769

This is the "Two Valve" system. There is no check valve in a 2 valve system.

Thank you for a GREAT photo of a 2 valve winterizing setup.

To winterize:

Rotate the bottom valve to vertical so it is pointed up. Then close the outlet valve (rotate so the arm is pointing away from the Styrofoam body).

Then DRAIN (and NOT before you close those valves!) from the outside drain outlet. Draining the hot water heater using the low point drains will draw sediment and calcium/anode bits into your cold water pipes causing all kinds of headaches next spring.

Herk,

I forgot to ask. The box I have in the one picture. Is that a control box for the water heater? I'm assuming it shouldn't be lying in the floor?

Thanks again

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by kantonburg

Herk,

I forgot to ask. The box I have in the one picture. Is that a control box for the water heater? I'm assuming it shouldn't be lying in the floor?

Thanks again

Correct, that is your 12 volt DC module board. It can kinda be anywhere you like it for ease of access.

Let me find you some pics.



Edit: Here are the instructions from the Suburban installation manual concerning the module board

[kantonburg]

Originally Posted by wmtire

Correct, that is your 12 volt DC module board. It can kinda be anywhere you like it for ease of access.

Let me find you some pics.



Edit: Here are the instructions from the Suburban installation manual concerning the module board

Well aside moisture it sounds like it's not mounted properly

I'll fix that soon.

I'll also need to do something about that flimsy wall partition that is supposed to protect the water heater from anything in storage. Not sure what I'm going to do about that yet.

[Bama Rambler]

Here's a functional diagram of how the three way valves work. As said, on some systems they have a check (one way) valve in the hot water outlet to stop the water from backing into the tank instead of the second valve .

[kantonburg]

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

Here's a functional diagram of how the three way valves work. As said, on some systems they have a check (one way) valve in the hot water outlet to stop the water from backing into the tank instead of the second valve .

Thanks for the diagram. My hot water line has a regular valve but I can see where a check valve would work there too.

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