Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-11-2015, 04:18 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Western NY
Posts: 5
Water heater issues.

So, after only using iur water heater a few times, it is now not lighting properly. We turn the switch on and the light turns on. Ofter 30 seconds or so, we hear the clicking like it is trying to light, but then stops and the light in the control panel comes back on. After 30 seconds or so, the clicking starts again, and generally we hear a "minor explosion" like too much propane is being released and igniting at once, and therefore snuffing itself.

Is this common, and is there an easy way to fix it?

2012 Georgetown 351 class a.

Thanks.
__________________

__________________
RoaminRoberts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2015, 08:06 PM   #2
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Western NY
Posts: 5
Ok. So the symproms are not what i thought. I started digging and i was thinking maybe a regulator for the propane. Not the case.

The actual issue seems to be at the water heater end. Maybe electrical. The gas is ignited, but once the 'clicking' stops fr the ignitor trying to ignite, the gas stips being supplied and therefore it goes out. I ha e tried manually lighting the propane, and as soon as the clicking starts, the propane lights and as soon as the clicking stops, the flame goes out.

Still hoping someone may have an idea so i can try and save a 2 hour drive to the "local" rv dealer.

Thanks.
__________________

__________________
"Not All Who Wander Are Lost" - J.R.R. Tolkien

2012 Georgetown 351
2012 Chevy Traverse
RoaminRoberts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2015, 08:20 PM   #3
Site Team
 
wmtire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 15,050
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoaminRoberts View Post
Ok. So the symproms are not what i thought. I started digging and i was thinking maybe a regulator for the propane. Not the case.

The actual issue seems to be at the water heater end. Maybe electrical. The gas is ignited, but once the 'clicking' stops fr the ignitor trying to ignite, the gas stips being supplied and therefore it goes out. I ha e tried manually lighting the propane, and as soon as the clicking starts, the propane lights and as soon as the clicking stops, the flame goes out.

Still hoping someone may have an idea so i can try and save a 2 hour drive to the "local" rv dealer.

Thanks.
The clicking you are hearing is the Direct Spark Ignitor or DSI. The DSI make sparks to ignite the propane, instead of a pilot light. Usually, the DSI will make 3 separate attempts to light the propane before it goes into lockout mode, which it will shut off the propane and quit attempting to light. Your fault light (which stays on if the switch is on but the propane fails to light) will then stay illuminated......as it is telling you there is a fault in the ignition process.

Once in lockout mode, you must turn off the DSI switch (which is the one your are turning on in your RV to start with. Wait a little, then turn it back on.These will restart the 3 attempts again.

However, if your DSI is going into lockout, is showing a bigger problem. One of the most common things is for spiders or dirt dobbers to get into the water heater burner flue. They build nests/webs that clog it up and make it hard for the DSI to light the propane properly.

You can try to clean the flue, and see what happens. You need to look for problems before attempting to keep trying to ignite the propane.



This FAQ may help if you have the Suburban water heater:

Suburban's electric switch and much more
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS

Ducks are just all-terrain chickens
wmtire is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2015, 08:25 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 6,753
I'm hardly an expert on WH's, but it sounds like the gas valve isn't staying open.

Post what brand WH you have and maybe someone smarter on them than I am can help you out.

I think there's some kind of thermocouple that gets heated by the gas and keeps the valve open. If you have a Suburban, this link may help.

http://hometips.me/Mar/Suburban_Wate...ice_Manual.pdf
__________________
1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)

2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
rockfordroo is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2015, 08:35 PM   #5
Site Team
 
wmtire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 15,050
A lot of times you can try to blow some compressed air thru your burner orifice/flue tube on case it has some blockage in it (spiders). This restricts the flow of propane thru it all the way to the other end (to the right side) where the DSI is actually at.

A small brush is better than air though, as you may not get all the blockage out with just air

__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS

Ducks are just all-terrain chickens
wmtire is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2015, 10:46 PM   #6
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Western NY
Posts: 5
Thanks for all the info. Will clean everything tomorrow and see if that helps. But based on the suburban manual, i am thinking i may have a bigger issue such as a thermocoupler or just a badly adjusted main burner. Will follow up once i have figured it out.
__________________
"Not All Who Wander Are Lost" - J.R.R. Tolkien

2012 Georgetown 351
2012 Chevy Traverse
RoaminRoberts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2015, 12:14 PM   #7
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Western NY
Posts: 5
Wmtire, have you ever seen these guy having too much air being brough in with the opening that big? My flue tube is exactly like the photo you have here. But my flame is half or just over half blue, and the rest is orange. My understanding is that this means too much o2 not enough gas (from my firefighter training days). Could this be the issue? I did get it lit this morning after several tries. All other gas appliances are fine and the regulator is only 3 years old. So my only guesses left are too much air, or something with the gas supply parts. Looking like it may require a trip to the dealership.
__________________
"Not All Who Wander Are Lost" - J.R.R. Tolkien

2012 Georgetown 351
2012 Chevy Traverse
RoaminRoberts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2015, 05:01 PM   #8
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Western NY
Posts: 5
Guys, i want to thank you for your tips. They got me looking not only at my setup, but at other information available online. I started looking into things from a different perspective.

It turns out that a lot of these types of units have a slotted tube over the opening of the gas flue tube to control the amount of air the goes with the fuel to be burned.

Higher altitude means less oxygen so it need to be more open. Lower altitude needs open less.

So, rather than search for and buy an expensive or possibly non existent part, i used a hose clamp to partially cover the opening. (See photo)

Now when i change elevation too much, i can simply loosen and slide this out of the way. By putting it on, i now get the flame to light after two or three clicks every time, and the flame is nearly all blue with a little orange at the end.

Hopefully this proves helpful to someone in the future. And thanks again for the tips, as they were definitely helpful. Cleaning the tube produced a small spider eggsac that had dried up as well as some other dirt and grime.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1436820918089.jpg
Views:	45
Size:	47.6 KB
ID:	82746  
__________________
"Not All Who Wander Are Lost" - J.R.R. Tolkien

2012 Georgetown 351
2012 Chevy Traverse
RoaminRoberts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2015, 05:20 PM   #9
Mod free 5er
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,215
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoaminRoberts View Post
Wmtire, have you ever seen these guy having too much air being brough in with the opening that big? My flue tube is exactly like the photo you have here. But my flame is half or just over half blue, and the rest is orange. My understanding is that this means too much o2 not enough gas (from my firefighter training days). Could this be the issue? I did get it lit this morning after several tries. All other gas appliances are fine and the regulator is only 3 years old. So my only guesses left are too much air, or something with the gas supply parts. Looking like it may require a trip to the dealership.
Yellow flame is a lack of oxygen, not too much.
__________________
OldCoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2015, 05:24 PM   #10
Site Team
 
wmtire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 15,050
If you're happy, we're happy. Sounds like you don't have to go to the dealer now.

However, I do have bone to pick with you. You started talking about altitude and now I can't quit singing John Denver's "Rocky Mountain High".
__________________

__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS

Ducks are just all-terrain chickens
wmtire is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
heater, water, water heater

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:01 PM.