Water heater not working

[SnP Farm]

Propane tanks are full. I flip the little red switch on the control panel to "On" .... click, click, click, woosh the the propane ignites just like always. Only difference is that it only stays on for about 30 seconds. No matter what I do it will not reignite again for several hours. I can turn the switch back on but nothing happens until after several hours of sitting. I can then turn the red switch on...click, click, click, woosh, ignition, soon it goes out not to come back on again. Any ideas?

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by SnP Farm

Propane tanks are full. I flip the little red switch on the control panel to "On" .... click, click, click, woosh the the propane ignites just like always. Only difference is that it only stays on for about 30 seconds. No matter what I do it will not reignite again for several hours. I can turn the switch back on but nothing happens until after several hours of sitting. I can then turn the red switch on...click, click, click, woosh, ignition, soon it goes out not to come back on again. Any ideas?

Have you used it any this camping season? The reason I am asking is to make sure you have the winterization valves correct, as there is a possibility it's not staying lit long because the water is already hot inside the water heater, thus the thermostat is turning it back off. It's also possible there isn't water in the tank, and you are dry firing it (which is what I think you may be doing).

Are you getting hot water out of the hot water tap. Have you flipped up the temperature and pressure relief (T&P)lever on the tank itself to see if the water is hot inside the tank....or if there is even water actually in the tank.

Do you have an electric heating element, and if so, is it on by any chance. Again, checking to see if the water is hot inside the tank, but maybe not reaching the taps due to the bypass.

Try this thread first, to assure the winterization and crossover/bypass valves are correct.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...st-103381.html


and here to see about a possible electric heating element and/or to see if hot water (or any water) is coming out of the temperature and pressure relief on the tank itself:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ore-36197.html

If so, then we can proceed to another cause....as in flame sensor, or control module

[SnP Farm]

This is the third time using it this spring. No issues before. It isn't staying lit long enough to warm the water at all. The electric element is in the off position where it's been every time. I didn't do anything different this time.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by SnP Farm

This is the third time using it this spring. No issues before. It isn't staying lit long enough to warm the water at all. The electric element is in the off position where it's been every time. I didn't do anything different this time.

OK, and you have physically verified there is water in the actual tank itself by flipping up the lever on the T&P valve?

[SnP Farm]

I've not changed ANYTHING since the last time I lit it.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by SnP Farm

I've not changed ANYTHING since the last time I lit it.

OK, I understand that, but troubleshooting is always a process. Even if you didn't change anything, something is wrong obviously. So we need to figure out what is right, to eliminate that from the process. I always start with the easiest things and work out to the harder ones.

You could have a water delivery problem elsewhere, which is why you want to manually open up that T&P valve and make absolutely sure there is water in the tank.

Once you eliminate that possibility, then you can check the flame sensor and also the control board, especially if you have a Suburban. They have had a whole lot of bad boards recently. We have many threads on the forums about them.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1804239

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1804586

[jeff64]

Mine didn't stay on that long. Made a heck of a bang. The ignitor not only has to make a spark but provide a flame presence signal back to the board. I ended up removing the gas tube so that I could clean tube and the ground attachment of the ignitor to the combustion chamber with a wire brush. Worked on mine and still is. Give it a shot, won't take you more than 10 min. then you'll know. High voltage to weak ground not a big deal, low voltage flame presence signal back to board bigger deal with weak ground. Could be a bad board too. You can download .pdf for WH and check it out

[AdamKam]

If it's a Suburban sounds like a bad circuit board.

[5picker]

Check for a blockage in the burner tube. (spider web, mud dauber, etc)
I've seen blockages in the tube cause a back-flame large enough to blow out the just lighted burner.

Unfortunately, a blocked tube wouldn't be cause for it to not try to light again for several hours as you've suggested.

[SnP Farm]

Originally Posted by wmtire

OK, I understand that, but troubleshooting is always a process. Even if you didn't change anything, something is wrong obviously. So we need to figure out what is right, to eliminate that from the process. I always start with the easiest things and work out to the harder ones.

You could have a water delivery problem elsewhere, which is why you want to manually open up that T&P valve and make absolutely sure there is water in the tank.

Once you eliminate that possibility, then you can check the flame sensor and also the control board, especially if you have a Suburban. They have had a whole lot of bad boards recently. We have many threads on the forums about them.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1804239

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1804586

Does water heater bypass valve need to be in the bypass or RV position?

[Flybob]

RV Position, But you said you were sure there was water in it.

[SnP Farm]

Originally Posted by Flybob

RV Position, But you said you were sure there was water in it.

I never said there wasn't water in it. I asked about the bypass valve. Since having issues I've tried several different things. Thank you.

[Brother Les]

Does your stove burners work and stay on?

[SnP Farm]

Originally Posted by Brother Les

Does your stove burners work and stay on?

Yes the stove stays on.

[SnP Farm]

Originally Posted by Flybob

RV Position, But you said you were sure there was water in it.

So Flybob, the red valve should be in the RV position for the water heater to work properly....while in this position does this allow water into the tank itself.