Water heater - only one valve

Maverick355 · 10-28-2012, 02:02 AM

Hi all,

I was going through the winterization process on my Sabre FW and got to the part to bypass the water heater. I've looked at that area before and noticed a pipe linking the hot and cold lines so I 'assumed' that was the bypass. Now I'm thinking I was wrong as there is only one valve - at the cold inlet. No valve on the hot side and no valve in the link pipe. Is this normal? Surely this isn't the bypass?...

I drained the heater by the drain pipe underneath the FW but noticed so water level remains in the heater (can see it in this link pipe). Couldn't get it out, although buzzing the water pump for a few seconds did seem to move some more water from somewhere because a little more drained out - maybe I was just pressurizing the heater a little and forcing more out?

I've since realised I should have removed the anode rod from the outside to completely drain the heater - this isn't mentioned in the process in the manual, is it really necessary?...

I know there's lots of into regarding winterizing and I am looking through it all, but couldn't find an explanation about this single valve I have seen on my unit. Can anyone shed any light? What is it for??

Thanks,
Simon

cardinal4fun · 10-28-2012, 05:44 AM

There are three different (maybe more) set ups for water bypass on the WH. I have had a two valve system, now I have a one valve system. The number of valves depends on the plumbing set up. I know it sound strange but thats what it is. My valve will devert the cold water from entering the WH but let the water go through both cold an hot lines.

The drain pipes under the unit are the "lowpoint" drains. You need to open them up you may have two or three it just depends, open the faucets also to let pressure adjust. Yes you need to remove the anode rod. You did not say which method you are using to winterize, for the first time you should use the pink stuff so you can see where things go.

Maverick355 · 10-28-2012, 06:13 AM

Thanks for the info!
I was going to blow the system down and then pour the antif

Maverick355 · 10-28-2012, 06:17 AM

Sorry bout that - 2 year old pressed send...

As I was saying I will pour antifreeze in the drains and traps but was assuming if I could get all the water out then I wouldn't need to put antifreeze in the lines? Also with the one valve set up I just can't see why water wouldn't enter the heater via the top line (hot) - or am I missing something?

Simon

**KyDan** · 10-28-2012, 06:41 AM

Go to our FAQ area and a sub area called winterization found here--
Winterizing - Forest River Forums

Watch the video on winterizing. It will answer a lot.

MtnGuy · 10-28-2012, 06:43 AM

There is a check valve in the hot water line that allows water to come out of the water heater, but does not allow water to flow back into the water heater.

Just turn the 3 way valve on the cold water inlet to the bypass line. That shuts the water off going into the water heater, and the check valve doesn't allow water in the hot water line, isolating the water heater just like a convention 3 valve system.

Maverick355 · 10-28-2012, 05:41 PM

Hi,

Thanks for all the feedback - the video is really helpful! The bypass on there is exactly like mine, so I guess its the same (thanks mtnguy for the explanation there). I had also forgotten about the external shower... will do that now too.

Only thing different I see now is the fresh tank drain. I can only see the two vertical lines under the camper which are close together. These just have the screw caps. I cant see a line with a 90 degree valve on it like in the video - should that always be there? I wasnt expecting my camper to have much / any water in the fresh tank as its been on city hook up since we got it (and was by previous owner too). After draining the two vertical lines I switched on the water pump for a few seconds and nothing came out the faucets, so I guessed the fresh tank was empty - or do you think there is another drain for it somewhere? If so, is it usually close by to the other drain lines?....

Thanks again,
Simon

VinceU · 10-28-2012, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maverick355

Hi,

Thanks for all the feedback - the video is really helpful! The bypass on there is exactly like mine, so I guess its the same (thanks mtnguy for the explanation there). I had also forgotten about the external shower... will do that now too.

Only thing different I see now is the fresh tank drain. I can only see the two vertical lines under the camper which are close together. These just have the screw caps. I cant see a line with a 90 degree valve on it like in the video - should that always be there? I wasnt expecting my camper to have much / any water in the fresh tank as its been on city hook up since we got it (and was by previous owner too). After draining the two vertical lines I switched on the water pump for a few seconds and nothing came out the faucets, so I guessed the fresh tank was empty - or do you think there is another drain for it somewhere? If so, is it usually close by to the other drain lines?....

Thanks again,
Simon

Mine also has two plugs, no valves. FR fiqured its cheaper for plug than valves and I guess they all come that way now? Doesn't matter if you pull both plugs, the tank and lines will drain. Water main plug connects to a common point for the water piping H/C. You may have another hose closeby with screen and tape. Its the FW tank vent and overflow.

MtnGuy · 10-28-2012, 07:41 PM

The 2 lines together are probably your low point drains. Many times that will be a blue and red line. The fresh water tank drain will probably be in another place.....directly under the fresh water tank. Look in that area for another capped line coming out of the bottom of the camper.

F and E Damp · 10-29-2012, 12:50 PM

We have the single valve by-pass set-up on our Georgetown. It works fine, but there's no indication which way the handle should be. The first season we had it, I bought an air compressor and did the blowout method, after I'd drained the water heater. Ours is the steel tank with an anode rod. I take the anode rod out and open the pressure relief valve on the water heater and it drains just fine.

I figured out which way the valve handle had to be set by listening to compressed air going into the WH. When you get it the bypass position, the air doesn't go there any more!

Even if there's a small amout of water left in the heater, there's plenty of room for it to freeze withoug hurting the heater.

Out potable water tank is in a cupboard underneath the bedroom wardrobes. It has a dedicated drain valve to a pipe leading outside. Again, a small amount of water left in the tank will be fine. It's a polyethylene tank, so it can stretch a little. I am careful to run the water pump dry after blowing out all the lines, so there's nothing to freeze inside the pump.

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