Water Heater Problems

[archham]

Went out this past weekend and we had hot water for just a few seconds everytime we tried it then it went cold. The heater is gas only, and it came on just fine and shut off after a while, like normal. The water that came out hot was really hot and then went away.

Last week I blew the lines out for sub freezing weather like I have many times before - the hot water heater worked perfectly the last time out a month or so ago.

Therefore I am thinking I had some debris in a line somewhere but not sure what to do about it. The lack of hot water was the same everywhere - sink, shower, kitchen sink, so I am thinking the problem is in the plumbing near the heater (see photo below of the plumbing. However, the pressure was just fine - the water was just cold. I am not sure how this is plumbed so I am hopeful that when no water is coming out of the heater you get the cold water only somehow?

The plumbing is connected with what appears to be some sort of clamp that is not reusable - I can take all this apart, but not sure about how to re-clamp everthing - where can I get these clamps or can I use something else?

Any suggestions are welcome. Thank you

[MrJoe]

Could the WH bypass be open or partially open?

[archham]

I dont see how - I had actually never taken the panel off before so I had not touched any of the valves. I wouldnt think the air pressuer (25 psi or so) would have been enought to turn one of them, would it? I just drained the water heater at the anode rod, put it back in and then blew the lines out....thanks.

[raspivey]

When you say "went away" do you mean it got cold or stopped flowing?

[archham]

Sorry. Meaning it got cold, had good pressure, just cold water only.

[raspivey]

How long was it before the water went from hot to cold? Gradual or pretty quickly?

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by archham

I just drained the water heater at the anode rod, put it back in and then blew the lines out....thanks.

Something else you might check:

In your winterization/draining water process, did you happen to open/turn on the hot/cold indoor shower or outdoor shower valves (but leave the shower sprayer head itself turned off)?

This also allows the cold water to mix in with the hot water, as another member had the same problem.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...cat-48336.html

[Herk7769]

It looks to me like you have a 2 valve system. The bottom valve (at the T) should rotate (handle vertical) to bypass the water heater via the vertical pipe and the upper valve at the outlet (HOT) should be closed to winterize.

The upper valve should be open and the lower valve should be rotated so the handle is horizontal to allow cold water to enter the water heater so it can fill and get hot.

IF the water heater was in bypass and you turned on the AC power to the water heater, you could burn out the heating element in seconds and could need replacement. The high limit thermostat could also need to be reset.

Gas operation would also shut down due to the opening of the high limit thermostat. It is reset (after water is actually IN the heater ) by opening the outside metal panel and finding the rubber covered reset buttons and pressing gently. They should move inwards if the bellows is open.

It should also look like the "new" thermostat and not like any of the other photos of bad ones. The left on is the AC electric thermostat and the right one is for the gas system. THEY ARE NOT interchangeable.

[wmtire]

Great info, Lou. It may help others in the future. However, the OP stated his water heater was gas only.

Originally Posted by archham

The heater is gas only, and it came on just fine and shut off after a while, like normal. The water that came out hot was really hot and then went away.

That's why I was leaning towards what you taught me about the outdoor shower valves being on.... which I thought he may have turned on while draining the water out during the winterization process.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by wmtire

Great info, Lou. It may help others in the future. However, the OP stated his water heater was gas only.



That's why I was leaning towards what you taught me about the outdoor shower valves being on.... which I thought he may have turned on while draining the water out during the winterization process.

Upon rereading the post I agree it sounds like "crosstalk" between the hot and cold water lines.

The outside or inside shower faucets should be checked for being open and the wand closed.

[archham]

Wow, thanks to all the replies. There is a possibility that the outside shower could have been left like that, faucet open but the sprayer closed. I am not certain of that though. Herk7769, thanks for the info on the valves too. I probably should have closed off the HWH before I blew out the system.

Do you all think there is any chance I would have put some debris in a HW line somewhere causing this?

The water was somewhat gradual in changing over to cold, but it was less than a minute before being completely cold.. in the shower...in 35 degree weather... that will wake one up for sure.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by archham

Wow, thanks to all the replies. There is a possibility that the outside shower could have been left like that, faucet open but the sprayer closed.

The water was somewhat gradual in changing over to cold, but it was less than a minute before being completely cold.. in the shower...in 35 degree weather... that will wake one up for sure.

I'm sure that was an eye opener, in 35 degree weather. Your symptoms still sound like the outside shower valves are on.....or the bypass valve is open/faulty.

Please, let us know what you find, so others with similar problems may find the answer when they read this thread later on in life.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by archham

Do you all think there is any chance I would have put some debris in a HW line somewhere causing this?

That certainly happened to me. When I drained my hot water heater through the low point drains. I just opened the drains and then opened all the faucets; so no wet feet. When I repressurized the water lines I blew calcium bits into the water valves and the toilet valve.

When hot water gets cold shortly after opening a tap, it is almost always an open bypass valve (which you do not have) or both shower faucets open (wand closed). The initial water is very hot and masks the cold water mixing with it. Shortly, as the hot water in the tank starts to cool from fresh cold water replacing the very hot water in the tank, the additional cold water bypassing through the faucets will make itself known.

[archham]

Sounds good. Thanks again to all. It will be about 10 days before I test this out. Will let you know how it goes!

[archham]

That certainly happened to me. When I drained my hot water heater through the low point drains. I just opened the drains and then opened all the faucets; so no wet feet. When I repressurized the water lines I blew calcium bits into the water valves and the toilet valve.

Herk - I thought these issues were unrelated, but when we first set up, I had no pressure at all in the bathroom sink faucet. I took the little strainer off and there were some particles there, then it worked fine on both the hot and cold side.

Since I have pressure at all faucets (just cold pressure!) I am hopeful that my issue is the outside shower as many have guessed.

If that is not the case, I think it would have to be some deposits somewhere in the hot water line near the HWH, correct? I am hoping that it was just the outside shower of course - will try it out as soon as I can. I think from now on I will "isolate" the HWH before blowing the lines out...

Thanks

[archham]

Happy Thanksgiving to all!

We are getting one last camping trip in and still having some issues. We ran out of HW in the shower again. I verified that the o/s shower was off before we took showers. Afterwards, I went out and ran the o/s shower (after the HWH had cycled through) and had hot water there - plenty of it, but not sure if I had a full 6 gallons, but far more than we had in the shower. When I turned on the o/s cold side, it gurgled a little so it is possible I had an air bubble in there. Son then took a shower and reported no problems -but he is 12 so not sure if he even turned the water on!

Still not sure what the deal is - I dont really understand how the plumbing works but trying to figure it out.

Will update again after another round of showers.

Also, we filled the FW tank for the first time last night due to cold temps. Turned the pump on and had very little water pressure. First time using the pump - any tricks to that Not even sure where the pump is on this camper...

[Ford Idaho]

Does the trailer have a water filter?
Flow rate will drop if it is getting clogged.

[archham]

Nope, no water filter...

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by archham

Went out this past weekend and we had hot water for just a few seconds everytime we tried it then it went cold. The heater is gas only, and it came on just fine and shut off after a while, like normal. The water that came out hot was really hot and then went away.

Last week I blew the lines out for sub freezing weather like I have many times before - the hot water heater worked perfectly the last time out a month or so ago.

Therefore I am thinking I had some debris in a line somewhere but not sure what to do about it. The lack of hot water was the same everywhere - sink, shower, kitchen sink, so I am thinking the problem is in the plumbing near the heater (see photo below of the plumbing. However, the pressure was just fine - the water was just cold. I am not sure how this is plumbed so I am hopeful that when no water is coming out of the heater you get the cold water only somehow?

The plumbing is connected with what appears to be some sort of clamp that is not reusable - I can take all this apart, but not sure about how to re-clamp everthing - where can I get these clamps or can I use something else?

Any suggestions are welcome. Thank you

From your picture you should have a valve on the white vertical hose between the hot and cold horizontal lines from the heater. I just had the exact same problem hot for a min. and then lukewarm. I forgot to shut that valve on the white line. But I do not see a valve in the picture. once I closed it I got full hot water again it didn't mix with the hot water coming out.

[2012WhiteSolera]

Hey Arch, take a look at these links on plumbing schmatics for RV's. Water, Water, Everywhere! RV Water Heater Bypass Systems They will give you a pretty good understanding of how the systems work.