water heater temperature

[Doug B]

Does anyone know if you can set or turn up the water temperature on a suburban 6 gallon model?

[MNtraveler]

Originally Posted by Doug B

Does anyone know if you can set or turn up the water temperature on a suburban 6 gallon model?

It should be very hot. If it's not, something is wrong. They make them run hot - much hotter than recommended for home use - so you need to use less water and don't run out of the 6 gals. so soon, and also use less gas or electricity.

Depending on your model, it may run at 130 degrees. Before adjusting any higher, be aware of the potential for very rapid scalding, at some temperatures the damage is done before you realize just how hot it is, and remember you are standing under it so EVERYTHING on your body can get scalded. I hope that's clear enough. :-O

https://www.energyguide.com/library/...SubjectID=9951

"Water temperatures over 125°F can cause severe burns instantly or death from scalds."

[OldCoot]

Replaced both of the 130degree limits with 140degree. Use less hot water. We like it that way.

[rockfordroo]

I believe there are a 130 deg and a 140 deg.

[Doug B]

Thanks for the help not sure witch one I have the 130 or 140, just picked up the TT 2304KS. There is silicon all over the tag only thing I can read is the model witch is SW6DEL.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by Doug B

Thanks for the help not sure witch one I have the 130 or 140, just picked up the TT 2304KS. There is silicon all over the tag only thing I can read is the model witch is SW6DEL.

You may want to check your crossover valve and make sure it is fully closed, so no cold water is mixing into the hot water line. The following link may help:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...st-103381.html

[rockfordroo]

In case you aren't aware, you have two thermostats; one for the 120VAC electric element and a 12VDC one for the gas.

I've found the Suburban part numbers below.

The first 2 are what you should have as standard. The next two are the hotter ones. I could only find one lower one; I THINK 120VAC.

Standard
232306, 130 deg, 120VAC
232282, 130 deg, 12VDC

Higher
232319, 140 deg, 12VDC
232317, 140 deg, 120VAC

Lower
520788, 120 deg, 120VAC??

I don't know where Old Coot found 142 degree T-stats, maybe he can chime in on his part numbers.

[325BH]

Regarding two thermostats...

I'm having a problem with my wh shutting down when on gas. This only happens when it has ran for a while without any hot water consumption. If I use hot water it appears to stay on.

If I run on electric only, all is well.

The last time it shut down on gas a checked the water heater and found some water. Turns out it came out the T&P valve. My guess it it is getting too hot, blowing out the T&P, then getting something wet that causes the heater to shut down.

Has anyone experienced this?

I only posted here because I was intrigued by the two separate thermostats. That would makes sense of my problem.


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[wmtire]

Originally Posted by 325BH

Regarding two thermostats...

I'm having a problem with my wh shutting down when on gas. This only happens when it has ran for a while without any hot water consumption. If I use hot water it appears to stay on.

If I run on electric only, all is well.

The last time it shut down on gas a checked the water heater and found some water. Turns out it came out the T&P valve. My guess it it is getting too hot, blowing out the T&P, then getting something wet that causes the heater to shut down.

Has anyone experienced this?

I only posted here because I was intrigued by the two separate thermostats. That would makes sense of my problem.


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I'm not sure I'm following here. The water heaters thermostats turn off their respective sides (either electric or gas) when the water reaches a preset temp. This is normal operation.

Then when the water temp falls below a certain temp, then the thermostats turn their sides back on in order to heat the water again....up to the point where the preset temp is reached and they turn off again. Works just like the thermostat to an air-conditioner in your house.

Is this not hows yours is working? It sounds as if it is. When you are not using hot water, then when the gas heats the water up to it's preset temp (usually 130 degrees), then the gas turns off. If the gas stayed on the entire time, it would heat the water to the point it boiled off as steam.

If you are using the hot water (like taking a shower), then the gas comes back on when the water temp in the tank falls too much, and it tries to get it back up to 130 degrees.....which takes a little as you can use more water than the gas can heat at the same time.....and why the gas stays on during this time.

[325BH]

Originally Posted by wmtire

I'm not sure I'm following here. The water heaters thermostats turn off their respective sides (either electric or gas) when the water reaches a preset temp. This is normal operation.

Then when the water temp falls below a certain temp, then the thermostats turn their sides back on in order to heat the water again....up to the point where the preset temp is reached and they turn off again. Works just like the thermostat to an air-conditioner in your house.

Is this not hows yours is working? It sounds as if it is. When you are not using hot water, then when the gas heats the water up to it's preset temp (usually 130 degrees), then the gas turns off. If the gas stayed on the entire time, it would heat the water to the point it boiled off as steam.

If you are using the hot water (like taking a shower), then the gas comes back on when the water temp in the tank falls too much, and it tries to get it back up to 130 degrees.....which takes a little as you can use more water than the gas can heat at the same time.....and why the gas stays on during this time.

No, mine is doing something different.

If I let it run on gas (or both), it eventually faults out and shuts down. The In-Command screen says "check water heater". The water heater is shut down.

I can turn it on again and all is well... until it faults again.

I think it it getting too hot, blowing water out the safety T&P valve, and shutting down. (How the water heater is sending a problem is still a mystery to me.)

If I am using hot water while it is running it doesn't fault. Presumably because it never gets hot enough to cause a problem. Once I stop using hot water, it will fault again a few hours later. The time delay doesn't make sense either, because it gets up to temp a cycles off normally in 10 minutes or so. Only when it sits for hours does it fault and shutdown.

Electric only is no problem at all. It never faults.


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[wmtire]

Originally Posted by 325BH

No, mine is doing something different.

If I let it run on gas (or both), it eventually faults out and shuts down. The In-Command screen says "check water heater". The water heater is shut down.

I can turn it on again and all is well... until it faults again.

I think it it getting too hot, blowing water out the safety T&P valve, and shutting down. (How the water heater is sending a problem is still a mystery to me.)

If I am using hot water while it is running it doesn't fault. Presumably because it never gets hot enough to cause a problem. Once I stop using hot water, it will fault again a few hours later. The time delay doesn't make sense either, because it gets up to temp a cycles off normally in 10 minutes or so. Only when it sits for hours does it fault and shutdown.

Electric only is no problem at all. It never faults.


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Let's see if I am following you correct. Are you saying the red light that says fault (or could be flt or even reset) beside the inside switch to the DSI/propane switch is illuminating?

If so, then this is what happens when the Direct Spark Ignitor fails to ignite the propane. The Suburban system will usually try 3 times, then go into what is called lockout mode. You have to turn the inside DSI switch fully off, then back on to reset the lockout...so the DSI can once again try to light the propane.

Does this sound like your problem?

If so, there is a possibility that the water escaping the T&P valve is wetting the DSI electrode and thus it can't make the spark to ignite the propane when the thermostat calls for it too......and it goes into lockout mode. After awhile the electrode is drying out, and you manually reset the lockout with the inside switch and the DSI then can ignite the propane.....until it all happens again when the water heater is sitting without the propane burning.

Do you see the rust orange colored wire in the bottom hand right side of the pic below? This goes to your DSI electrode. Is any part of this wet from the escaping water from your T&P valve? It could even be wetting the gas control connections to the left.

You might could connect some kind of hot water hose to the T&P valve and route it below everything, so if the T&P opens the water will not get on anything electrical. Another member just did that recently and posted pics of it.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

...I don't know where Old Coot found 142 degree T-stats, maybe he can chime in on his part numbers.

I went out and looked and it is a 140 degree and changed the post.