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Old 01-30-2011, 07:14 PM   #1
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water heater troubles

We recently bought a 1998 Sierra 27DB. We are doing a bunch of work to it to get ready for some rv fun. We had tested/used the hot water without any problems. Today I changed out the anode rod, looked as if had never been done before.

After replacing rid and flushing out tank, I connected water and opened up kitchen hot water afucet to fill tank. Now I can't get it to heat up. I am sure tank is filled because what spurts out if I toggle the pressure relief valve. Gas is on then I turn on switch under counter, it tries to ignite but wont stay lit. If I turn electrical switch on (little black on/off button on outside WH panel) nothing happens.

Can someone please help me figure out what I did wrong.

Thank You,
Ryan
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Old 01-30-2011, 08:25 PM   #2
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I am sure you have checked this but:

1) check the bypass valve to be closed. If it is open, cold water can mix with the hot and you will not be happy.

2) check the furnace. If the furnace does not fire up, it could be low gas pressure.

3) press the reset buttons on the hot water heater. Two rubber coated buttons in the upper left corner.

Let me know if that fixed it.
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Old 01-30-2011, 08:46 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post
I am sure you have checked this but:

1) check the bypass valve to be closed. If it is open, cold water can mix with the hot and you will not be happy. Where can I find the bypass valve?

2) check the furnace. If the furnace does not fire up, it could be low gas pressure. The furnace fires up and I am able to light a burner on the stove.

3) press the reset buttons on the hot water heater. Two rubber coated buttons in the upper left corner. I pushed the reset buttons, didnt feel anything "reset".

Let me know if that fixed it.
When it tries to light I can hear the igniter clicking and a blue/orange flame shoots out but then stops. But this only happens once, does not try to re-ignite on its own.
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:23 PM   #4
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If it fails on ignition trial (which is what is happening) it will lock out until power cycled. Check that the flame rod wire wasn't loosened when you were working in there. Check Gas pressure - tanks low ? Make sure there are no obstructions to the burner assembly or water in it. Make sure air supply ports to the burner are not blocked. If you have too much air/not enough air, too much gas, not enough gas you can experience what you are seeing. Being that you were working in there you could had inadvertently done something to cause something of the above
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Old 01-31-2011, 07:12 PM   #5
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Ok thanks I will do more looking around.

If I have the on/off switch on the outside turned on to heat water with AC, do I need to turn on the switch under the counter?
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Old 01-31-2011, 07:37 PM   #6
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Maybe. First check to be sure that you did not accidentally close one of the by pass valves. How are you pressurizing the system? Hose or water pump? Check to make sure you have water coming out of the hot side of the faucets. leave them open until you do.
Now, turn the gas on, go inside and light the stove burners. Once you have a good steady flame, go and turn the WH on gas. My guess you simply have an air lock. It might take several cycles to actually get it to light.
Incidentally the electric heater element must be immersed in water or you will burn it up in about 30 seconds flat. And it can take up to an hour before you actually start to see a rise in water temp. It is also quite possible that the previous owner burned the element up long ago.
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Old 01-31-2011, 09:33 PM   #7
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donn.......to test the electric WH function, do I turn on the switch at the panel and the switch under the counter? Or is the counter switch only for using gas?

The only valves we could find are under one of the dinette seats, under a flap of carpet. These are in line from bathroom to kitchen sink. These valves T off with tubes that "drain" out under the trailer.

Thanks for all the suggestions.
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Old 01-31-2011, 11:43 PM   #8
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Ok, after some searching I understand when to use the proper switches. And found most turn on/off the electric HWH with their breaker.

I think we are getting hot water with the electric side. Now just got to figure out why the gas won't stay ignighted. Will try some of the above suggestions this week.
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