Water heater/ water supply valve to heater

[Cherokee1979]

Maybe this is the right place for this, if not hopefully someone can move it. I have a sw6de suburban hot water heater. Got a few questions for you veterans out there. The on/off switch in the outside compartment is just for the electric, and not for the propane correct? Question #2 On my 2005 Cherokee 27L it has the htr switch inside, one you turn it on it tries to light and does light, it heats and then shuts (off) is this supposed to happen? The reason I ask is because I went in once it started heating and opened up the hot water faucet, problem is water never got warm for some reason. This leads to Question #3 Under my cabinet inside the camper is the back-side of the water heater, there is only one valve on the water supply to the heater. Is mine set up correctly or not. I'm posting a few pictures, hopefully this makes a little sense. Trying to figure out why water never got war, and if I have water supply valve right. Thanks for any help

• LIST]

[raspivey]

Yes, outside switch is electric. The inside switch will be propane. Both systems have some sort of temperature cutoff. Most panels will have a DSI light next to the switch that will come on if it fails to light after a few attempts. Even if it doesn't, it should be pretty obvious when standing next to it on the outside if it's running or not. Once it heats, it'll shut off and start up again when the temp gets lower. Your pic didn't show up, but many have some sort of bypass valving to isolate the tank when winterizing. Valve handles should be inline with (- - - not -|- ) the inlet and outlet lines of the water heater and any crossover valves should be blocked.

[wmtire]

Howdy Cherokee1979, your questions about the Suburban SW6DE are ones that come up a lot, as the switches are kinda confusing.

We have a very detailed FAQ on it's operation at this link below:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ore-36197.html

Post #3 in that same thread also explains the bypass/crossover valve(s). Although it shows the diagram for a three valve system, it should give you an idea of how a one crossover valve system operates and how you should have it closed. If you do indeed ONLY have the one valve, then the hot water outlet line has a one way check (or internal backflow) valve.

A pic of the backside of the water heater would help tremendously.

I'm actually going to also move this thread over into the more appropriate "plumbing and water systems & fixtures" subtopic.

[Cherokee1979]

[Oakman]

In your picture the valve is in the closed position. There is no water going into your water heater.

If you tried to use the electric side of the water heater with no water in it then you have probably burned out the electric element. The water heater will still work with propane.

[rmac04401]

Valve looks turned off in pic not letting water flow into tank. I think it should be facing right. Right now it looks like water would flow up to valve then go up to top and go back to your faucet. Looks like your missing a couple of valves for a good bypass setup.

[Oakman]

Originally Posted by rmac04401

Valve looks turned off in pic not letting water flow into tank. I think it should be facing right. Right now it looks like water would flow up to valve then go up to top and go back to your faucet. Looks like your missing a couple of valves for a good bypass setup.

My 2003 Wildcat had the one valve system and I never had any problems or issues with this setup.

[Cherokee1979]

I may have switched that valve, but I did get the WH full of water. I was testing the propane, to make sure it would operate correctly. Once the tank was full I switched the htr on and it started ticking and the gas lit up. The gas run for about a minute and then shut off, I assumed it reached the pre-set temperature. Then I went in and opened up the hot water faucet and let it run and ( NEVER) got any hot water. I figure it has something to do with the one valve in the picture.


Cherokee1979, Cherokee27L, ChevroletZ71 5.3

[RSchleder]

From the picture, I agree--it sure looks like you need 2 more valves to have a properly setup HW bi-pass system. A valve on the bi-pass tube and a second on on the outlet junction (at the top) is needed to properly divert the water into or away from the water heater.

[Oakman]

Originally Posted by Cherokee1979

I may have switched that valve, but I did get the WH full of water. I was testing the propane, to make sure it would operate correctly. Once the tank was full I switched the htr on and it started ticking and the gas lit up. The gas run for about a minute and then shut off, I assumed it reached the pre-set temperature. Then I went in and opened up the hot water faucet and let it run and ( NEVER) got any hot water. I figure it has something to do with the one valve in the picture.


Cherokee1979, Cherokee27L, ChevroletZ71 5.3

It sure sounds like you have an empty water heater. Just to be sure you do have water in it open the pressure relief valve to see if water comes out.

[nomad297]

Originally Posted by Oakman

My 2003 Wildcat had the one valve system and I never had any problems or issues with this setup.

The single valve system works if there is a check valve on the hot side of the water heater.

Bruce

[wmtire]

As stated in the FAQ, you may have only one, possibly two, and could be three valves in the water heater bypass setup. They all work the same in principle, which is to bypass the water heater and connect the cold water line to the hot water lines and allow anti-freeze to be pumped into both lines thru the cold water side/pump. The one valve system as you have utilizes an internal check/backflow valve on the hot water outlet side.

With the one valve system, like you have..... when you open the crossover valve, it actually closes the cold water inlet line feeding the water heater. This is connecting the cold water line to the hot water line for anti freeze purposes....but as others have stated, you have nothing feeding the water heater itself and thus when you turn on the taps inside your RV, ALL the water coming out of the hot water taps is coming from the cold water line via the crossover valve being set that way.

You need to turn the valve such that it CLOSES the bypass line and OPENS the cold water inlet line to the water heater......so water can enter the heater. You can actually think of the valve handle itself as an arrow and point it to the direction you want the water to flow. You have it pointing to the crossover line. You need to point it to the water heaters COLD water inlet line.

When you turned on the propane to heat the water, if there is no water in the heater then the thermostat turned off the fire when it sensed the temp getting too hot. It may have also activated the ECO hi-limit temp part of the the thermostat assemble you may have to manually reset.

It's hard to know at this stage if you had no water in the heater, not knowing how you may have turned the valve, how many times, and if the heater was drained. As also explained in the FAQ I posted, you can flip up the pressure relief valve on the water heater to see if there is water in the tank at all.

[Cherokee1979]

The valve doesn't switch towards the cold water it turns straight up or to the left.


Cherokee1979, Cherokee27L, ChevroletZ71 5.3

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by Cherokee1979

The valve doesn't switch towards the cold water it turns straight up or to the left.


Cherokee1979, Cherokee27L, ChevroletZ71 5.3

Same difference, turn it left and it will close the crossover line and open the inlet line to the water heater.

[Cherokee1979]

I flipped the pressure relief valve and no water came out ,BUT I pulled the anode rod out and water flowed out for a while so I know it was full of water. I put the anode rod back in and filled the WH back up.


Cherokee1979, Cherokee27L, ChevroletZ71 5.3

[Cherokee1979]

I think I understand what I need to do now. Next time I'm off work I will swap that valve the other way and should work just fine👍. Thank you all for the help.


Cherokee1979, Cherokee27L, ChevroletZ71 5.3

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by Cherokee1979

I think I understand what I need to do now. Next time I'm off work I will swap that valve the other way and should work just fine��. Thank you all for the help.


Cherokee1979, Cherokee27L, ChevroletZ71 5.3

You shouldn't have to switch anything, and are making it harder than it has to be.

As stated, just turn the valve handle to the left...and this closes the bypass line and opens up the feed to the water heater. Now go outside and flip up the pressure relief valve on the face of the water heater and water should flow out once the water heater fills up.

Let me see if I can find an internal schematic of how the valve is made so you see how the water flows inside it from the two positions.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by rmac04401

Valve looks turned off in pic not letting water flow into tank. I think it should be facing right. Right now it looks like water would flow up to valve then go up to top and go back to your faucet. Looks like your missing a couple of valves for a good bypass setup.

Originally Posted by RSchleder

From the picture, I agree--it sure looks like you need 2 more valves to have a properly setup HW bi-pass system. A valve on the bi-pass tube and a second on on the outlet junction (at the top) is needed to properly divert the water into or away from the water heater.

Please understand that not all water heaters have a three valve, bypass system.

The OP's single valve system is commonly used throughout the industry.

The single valve performs the function of two of the valves on a three valve system.
It shuts off the flow to the cold inlet AND opens the port that feeds the bypass line all in a single turn of the valve. The hot outlet port of the water heater has a check valve built into it that allows water out of the tank but not back in through itself.

A two valve system is very similar except the 2nd valve simply takes place of the hot outlet check valve.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by Cherokee1979

I flipped the pressure relief valve and no water came out ,BUT I pulled the anode rod out and water flowed out for a while so I know it was full of water. I put the anode rod back in and filled the WH back up.


Cherokee1979, Cherokee27L, ChevroletZ71 5.3

OK, I am confused by this. If you flipped the pressure relief valve and no water came out, then it means you have no water pressure going into the water heater.... and this would happen if you have the valve open to the bypass line (and closed to the water inlet).....and could happen if the water heater had water or didn't have water in it.

Pulling the anode does drain the Suburban brand water heater.

Now here is where it is confusing, as since it appears you have the valve set to bypass the water heater (and stated no water came out of the pressure relief valve)......how exactly did you fill the water heater back up?

What exactly are you connected to, in order to get water to your RV? Are you using the city water supply or the onboard freshwater tank via the pump.

[5picker]

wmtire... in post # 8 the op says...
"I may have switched that valve, but I did get the WH full of water."

So I 'think' at some point he did have the valve set to fill the water heater but turned it afterwards.

If he happened to try the pop-off valve after moving the bypass valve to closed, he may not have seen anything come out the pop-off.

Confusing non the less.