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Old 07-13-2015, 07:48 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ford Idaho View Post
Get a #2 square bit drive and pull the screws out.
X2, there are several models of TT's where you do have to remove the bunk plywood to access the bypass valves. It's just the design of it.

On mine, you have to remove some screws to a fake hinge on a fake cabinet door to access the rear of my water heater and the bypass valves.

When you do gain access, and if you have the three valve setup (you could have one or just two), you will want them as in the pic for normal use. Yours are probably in the bypass mode, also shown in the pic.:



I'm sure you know not to try and operate the water heater without water in it. This FAQ may help explain further:

Suburban's electric switch and much more
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Old 07-13-2015, 02:25 PM   #12
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Do not turn you electric on to the water heater w/o water in it. It will burn up the electric thermostats. Also, the suggestion of opening the pressure relief valve is a good one, but it will also overfill the water heater. Hot water expands and needs room to expand. The water heater manufacturers recommend, with no water pressure, open the pressure relief valve and let water run out till it quits. then close it. This creates a gap in the top of the tank to allow for expansion. If you don't do this, at times you can get water dripping out of the pressure relief valve, especially when using the electric option. I have a Rockwood Ultra Lite, 8315 BSS and I have to remove a panel, with a #2 square head screw driver to get to the back of my tank. During your walk through the dealer should have showed you how to winterize the hot water tank. I would discuss this with the sales manager/service manager. If you did turn on your electric switch w/o water you probably have burnt up your electric thermostat.


Good luck


Tom
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Old 07-14-2015, 03:46 PM   #13
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So.....did you figure it out?????
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