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Old 07-16-2013, 03:14 PM   #11
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Thanks a lot for the information... I will definitely recheck the fuse panel to see if the 15A fuse for the water heater is blown. Can you tell/show me at which points I should be testing for 12v inside/outside (where to put the red/black PINs)?
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Old 07-16-2013, 04:51 PM   #12
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Set the voltmeter on DC Volts (if it has a range use 0-25 volts).

Provided the power center fuse tests good.

With the water heater wall switch "on", put the red lead on the top red wire of the right thermostat next to the reset button. The black probe should be on the metal frame. There should be 12-14 volts DC there.

Then move the red probe to the bottom of the lower red wire terminal and there should be 12-14 volts there too.

If you have 12-14 volts on the bottom wire terminal, the water heater control board is your next stop. Troubleshooting past the thermostat is out of the "average handyman" repair since replacing the control board could get complicated.

My best guess you will find your problem in the thermostat or power center fuse. BOTH are relatively easy to change.

Suburban RV Water Heater 12 Volt Thermostat 232282 | eBay
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Old 07-16-2013, 04:55 PM   #13
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Oh, it needs to be said. While you are doing this MAKE SURE the 120 volt circuit breaker is TURNED OFF. You don't want to touch the left thermostat because if the black switch for the AC heater is on, you could get a good shock from the black wires.
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Old 07-16-2013, 05:51 PM   #14
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Awesome, thanks for that herk... I'll do some further testing when I make it back to my trailer in a couple days!
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:29 AM   #15
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I don't think I saw it mentioned yet, one other thing to check is the fork that creates the spark. It's easier to see it at night. But you need to make sure it is firing properly. Last year there seemed to be a rash of this problem. I'm not sure if its from the bouncing down the road or the heat that causes them to spread apart. I think between people I know and people on here there were about 14 replaced in a 6 month span.
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Old 07-17-2013, 04:28 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotocrossCamper View Post
I don't think I saw it mentioned yet, one other thing to check is the fork that creates the spark. It's easier to see it at night. But you need to make sure it is firing properly. Last year there seemed to be a rash of this problem. I'm not sure if its from the bouncing down the road or the heat that causes them to spread apart. I think between people I know and people on here there were about 14 replaced in a 6 month span.
With no light in the DSI Fault when trying to ignite the gas, I don't think this could be the cause of this malfunction. If he had a DSI light and smelled gas at the solenoid, I would be looking at spark and mixture (flue blockage or corrosion at the orifice.
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Old 07-17-2013, 04:54 PM   #17
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I once had a similar problem and resoloved it by removing the ground screw and cleaning and reassemble.
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Old 07-17-2013, 05:04 PM   #18
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I once had a similar problem and resoloved it by removing the ground screw and cleaning and reassemble.
Yep, this could do it as well.
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:03 PM   #19
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Well I got it working... Turns out there wasn't power going to the left side of the reset switch... I pulled the cable off, pressed the switch back in tightly (it wasn't popped out though) and reconnected the cable and it fired right up.

Thanks again!
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Old 06-25-2017, 11:23 AM   #20
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Not wanting to create an entire thread on the same subject I thought I'd open this one up even though it is a few years old to see if I could get some responses. The issue that I'm having is similar to the one of the OP but that my WH ignites initially and get to temp but won't reignite when the temp drops and calls for more heat. When that happens my DSi defaults and the light comes on. If I shut the WH DSI switch off and then turn the switch back on, 85 to 90% of the time it will light on its own the 1st try. I have pulled the gas tube, checked the orifice and checked the ground on the igniter. Only other thing I could think of is maybe the igniter forks are too far away from each other like was suggested in a prior post but I'm not sure what that distance is supposed to be. If that is not it, I'm thinking that it might be a gas valve. Has anybody had any problems with a gas valves not functioning properly and failing overtime?
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