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Old 05-06-2017, 08:28 AM   #21
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If you use air pressure, if the antifreeze valve is open, even a crack, air will escape, making you think you have a leak in the lines somewhere..
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Old 05-06-2017, 08:47 AM   #22
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If any line is leaking (other than the pumps suction lines), you should be able to create the same situation (i.e., water around your shower drain trap) while running on city water pressure. In other words, your problem has nothing to do with the water pump.
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Old 05-06-2017, 03:41 PM   #23
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If you are using air pressure on the city side of the system the check valve at the water pump will stop the air. If the pressure drops you know that you have a leak.
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Old 05-06-2017, 06:24 PM   #24
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I appreciate all the responses and suggestions. Here's an update on where I'm at: I spent the entire day yesterday trying to replicate the leak to see if I could determine where it was coming from. I drained water out of the plumbing, then used the city water connection to re-pressurize the system. I turned water on each sink, the tub, flushed the toilet and I found the water started to come up from the floor from around a drain pipe under the tub. Thus, there's no need to pull the shower apart as I know where the leak is manifesting itself.

I took today off and will work on this again tomorrow. I think its a drain pipe that runs behind the converter - I'll pull the converter out of the wall and trace the drain pipes to see where this may be coming from and post up again tomorrow evening.

Rich J.
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Old 05-06-2017, 06:41 PM   #25
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Should have said the grey water tank is empty. Since I'm just using clean water from my house I have the grey water tank valve open and sewer line running out to a very thankful tree. Close the valve at night so nothing crawls in.
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Old 05-07-2017, 02:36 PM   #26
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Found the leak! It turned out to be drain pipe fitting deep in the bowels between the tub and converter. I pulled the converter out of the wall and traced the drain pipes and managed to isolate the potential leaky fitting to the water draining from the bathroom sink. With the plumbing de-pressurized, I poured a gallon of water down the bathroom sink and quickly went over to the suspected fitting. Sure enough, it got wet and then spilled a half cup of water onto the floor behind the walls (under the fridge). With the converter out and the tub access door open, I blew compressed air into that compartment to dry things out.

Accessing the leaky fitting will require removing the whole panel from in front of the tub, but the hard part - finding the leak, is done. In the photo below you can see the water stain on the floor near the vertical drain pipe. Thanks again to everyone for your suggestions.

Rich J.
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Old 05-07-2017, 06:27 PM   #27
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Glad you found it. Hope the repair goes well for you.
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Old 05-07-2017, 06:39 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BooHyde View Post
Glad you found it. Hope the repair goes well for you.
X2, glad you got it.
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Old 05-08-2017, 04:43 AM   #29
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X3 Im sure it was a PITA but now you will be so relieved that the issue is solved and satisfied with yourself for having repaired it!
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Old 05-13-2017, 01:50 PM   #30
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You will also hear the hissing of the potential leak, do use more the 45 psi!
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Old 05-13-2017, 02:15 PM   #31
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With that tight a space, try a HEPVO valve to replace the extremely tight P-trap. It can be laid out flat, perpendicular, or anywhere in between. It keeps the fumes from coming back in, just like the P-trap, but doesn't rely on water to do it. I only know of one person who has done this, and their's is working fine after a few years.
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