Water Pump problems for a newbie

Patsquatch · 04-30-2018, 08:56 PM

Last month I picked up a brand new Sierra HT 3275DBOK, not only my first 5th, but my first camper —I’m as green as they come. Waiting until I was confident we were past our last deep freeze, I filled the water tank yesterday and set to de-winterizing. The problem I’m having is that the pump will run, pressurize the lines, give me good water for approximately one minute then gradually slow to something less than a trickle. I’ve tried bleeding the lines of air, letting all faucets sit open for several minutes, but never really heard any air coming out. Do I need to have my pump serviced? Or is there something I missed in the springerization process? Thanks, I really appreciate any help!

Jmkjr72 · 04-30-2018, 09:05 PM

It can take a bit of time to bleed all the air out of the lines even on city water
Leave it hooked to city water till you have good water come out of the cold water all points. Then make sure the water heater is not bypassed and do the same for the hot water. It can take several minutes of spitting and sputtering to bleed all the air out. Then try it on the pump

Jmkjr72 · 04-30-2018, 09:27 PM

You did make sure your low point drains were capped off and your water heater didn’t have anything pulled from it right

Skyliner · 04-30-2018, 10:03 PM

.... and the anode rod installed or drain valve closed on your hot water heater.

rockfordroo · 04-30-2018, 10:23 PM

And you've switched the pump suction from the antifreeze connection to the fresh water tank?

OH - and you've FILLED the fresh water tank?

Patsquatch · 04-30-2018, 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jmkjr72

It can take a bit of time to bleed all the air out of the lines even on city water
Leave it hooked to city water till you have good water come out of the cold water all points. Then make sure the water heater is not bypassed and do the same for the hot water. It can take several minutes of spitting and sputtering to bleed all the air out. Then try it on the pump

Thanks for the tip, I hadn't thought of hooking it up to city water. That was a good way to keep it with some pressure. I ran both lines for about five minutes, until I didn't see any more stuttering then switched to pump and the first thing the kitchen faucet did when I turned it on was spit out more air. I'll try it again for a longer period tomorrow before I call the dealership.

Patsquatch · 04-30-2018, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

And you've switched the pump suction from the antifreeze connection to the fresh water tank?

OH - and you've FILLED the fresh water tank?

Drains are capped, although they weren't to start (as I said, I'm a newbie), anode is in. Yes, the tank was filled and I've since topped it off. However, I'm not familiar with a switch for the antifreeze connection.

cavie · 04-30-2018, 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patsquatch

Drains are capped, although they weren't to start (as I said, I'm a newbie), anode is in. Yes, the tank was filled and I've since topped it off. However, I'm not familiar with a switch for the antifreeze connection.

The handle needs to be 90 degrees to the hose to be off.

Patsquatch · 04-30-2018, 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cavie

The handle needs to be 90 degrees to the hose to be off.

https://www.davesrv.com/img/local/cl...4/DSCN9318.JPG

Here's a pic of my rig. The gray star to the left of the bottom of the filter is a winterization inlet with a cap; no valve. But, there is an inline valve in the blue hose on the right of the compartment below the filter -- is that what you're talking about?

Again, I appreciate the input. I guess the fella that walked me through the RV when I bought it must have assumed that I wasn't so green and I didn't know all the questions to ask. I'm hoping to get the family out this weekend.

Jmkjr72 · 05-01-2018, 06:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patsquatch

Thanks for the tip, I hadn't thought of hooking it up to city water. That was a good way to keep it with some pressure. I ran both lines for about five minutes, until I didn't see any more stuttering then switched to pump and the first thing the kitchen faucet did when I turned it on was spit out more air. I'll try it again for a longer period tomorrow before I call the dealership.

Once all the air is bleed out as long as your switch is all the way off for sucking antifreeze you still have a little bit of air to purge out of the system. The air that could be in the pump and the air in the one from the pump to where it ties in to the rest of the plumbing.
With everything purged on city water leave turn the pump on and leave it alone till the pump turns off. This will put pressure in the lines. Then I open the cold water closest to the pump this will push that last bit of air out faster

cavie · 05-01-2018, 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patsquatch

https://www.davesrv.com/img/local/cl...4/DSCN9318.JPG

Here's a pic of my rig. The gray star to the left of the bottom of the filter is a winterization inlet with a cap; no valve. But, there is an inline valve in the blue hose on the right of the compartment below the filter -- is that what you're talking about?

Again, I appreciate the input. I guess the fella that walked me through the RV when I bought it must have assumed that I wasn't so green and I didn't know all the questions to ask. I'm hoping to get the family out this weekend.

No, that valve is for winterization to pump in antifreeze. The water heater needs to be unbypassed. There are valves at the water heater. 1, 2, or 3. most have 3. If you have 3, the top and bottom ones need to be inline with the hose. the middle one needs to be 90 degrees to the hose. Mine has only one valve. it needs to be 90 degrees to the hose. These valves are right at the water heater. Might be behind a panel. not accessible from outside. I could be wrong and your results may very.

rockfordroo · 05-01-2018, 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cavie

No, that valve is for winterization to pump in antifreeze. The water heater needs to be unbypassed. There are valves at the water heater. 1, 2, or 3. most have 3. If you have 3, the top and bottom ones need to be inline with the hose. the middle one needs to be 90 degrees to the hose. Mine has only one valve. it needs to be 90 degrees to the hose. These valves are right at the water heater. Might be behind a panel. not accessible from outside. I could be wrong and your results may very.

Cavie, go back and read posts 5, 7, 8, 9; follow the quotes. We're talking about valving out the AF and valving in the Fresh water tank. Nothing to do with the water heater. If his water heater is empty but bypassed, he should still be getting water pressure from his FW tank, unless he's not actually sucking from his FW tank.

If that valve in his pic is to valve in the AF, it's only a 2-way valve near as I can tell in the pic, meaning there needs to be another 2-way valve somewhere to valve in the FW tank. Some units use a 3-way valve, with both AF and FW tank going to 2 of the inputs and the pump attached to the outlet, but that valve isn't a 3-way.

I'm not a fan of these "docking station" units because you can't see what's going on behind the panel.

rockfordroo · 05-01-2018, 09:37 AM

Patsquatch: I've attached a generic plumbing diagram that may help you. It covers most units, but may not be a great match with your "docking station" unit; but should give you the basic water flows.

Page 2 shows the many different water heater bypass arrangements that Cavie alluded to. Sounds like he has Option #4.

cavie · 05-01-2018, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

Cavie, go back and read posts 5, 7, 8, 9; follow the quotes. We're talking about valving out the AF and valving in the Fresh water tank. Nothing to do with the water heater. If his water heater is empty but bypassed, he should still be getting water pressure from his FW tank, unless he's not actually sucking from his FW tank.

If that valve in his pic is to valve in the AF, it's only a 2-way valve near as I can tell in the pic, meaning there needs to be another 2-way valve somewhere to valve in the FW tank. Some units use a 3-way valve, with both AF and FW tank going to 2 of the inputs and the pump attached to the outlet, but that valve isn't a 3-way.

I'm not a fan of these "docking station" units because you can't see what's going on behind the panel.

It seems I responded the wrong thread. That's what I get for letting my fingers do the talking.

jkoenig24 · 05-01-2018, 02:15 PM

If you have an outside shower, make sure the valves are turned OFF.

Patsquatch · 05-01-2018, 03:15 PM

One of the valves in the docking station is a water heater bypass (elongated red lever, top kind of centered in the compartment). I assumed because that bypass is there that I don't have additional valves behind the water heater (which is buried in a storage compartment under a bunk at the back of the trailer). Am I just wrong about that?

rockfordroo · 05-01-2018, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patsquatch

One of the valves in the docking station is a water heater bypass (elongated red lever, top kind of centered in the compartment). I assumed because that bypass is there that I don't have additional valves behind the water heater (which is buried in a storage compartment under a bunk at the back of the trailer). Am I just wrong about that?

I can't read what it says to the right of the red handle, but since you only have the one valve, I'm betting you have Option #4 (like Cavie) on the plumbing diagram I gave you in post #13. That's the only option that uses just one owner-operated valve.

Put it in the winterization (bypass) position and that will take the water heater out of the equation while you figure out what your real problem is.

B and B · 05-01-2018, 08:34 PM

Hello,

We all have been there with deer in the headlights look at one time or another. We are here to help.

Find your pump
Look for a clear jar type thing on one side
unscrew and clean off the plastic chips on the stainless screen

If not this check the hose clamp after the screen thing, might be sucking air causing poor pressure. Check for kinked hose or pinch by something close by.

Certainly sounds like a starvation of the pump.

ProfChuck · 05-01-2018, 09:13 PM

B&B you took the words right out of my mouth. That would explain how the pump can build up pressure with the water turned off, but, when it is turned back on it can't draw enough water to pump.

Patsquatch · 05-01-2018, 10:35 PM

A sincere thank you to everyone who took the time to offer me advice. At this point, I’ve tried all of the above and spoken with the service manager at the dealership who gave me his thoughts. After finally finding and fiddling with the pump, which is in a very inconvenient location, I got the screen off (clear) and couldn’t really tell if the hoses were loose. I’ll be taking it in tomorrow afternoon, was promised a quick diagnosis and a next day at the latest solution... we shall see. Hopefully some day soon I’ll be able to contribute to this, too.

You may also like: