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Old 06-12-2012, 10:41 AM   #21
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As far as vapor lock, if a hot water valve was open, the air should have come out of that.

If the water heater was building up pressure, then water should have starting coming out of a cold water faucet.

Go figure. As long as things are working correctly now.
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Old 06-13-2012, 08:17 AM   #22
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Another thing Dave,
I drain my hw heater after each use as I tend to get a sulfer smell if the water sits in tank for a few weeks.
This may or may not happen to you but just an Fyi.
Also a good idea. I'd be willing to bet that most water has a lot of minerals in it, so the longer it sits the more buildup you'll get on the anode, valves, and interior heater surfaces. Its just too bad that the HW tank design doesn't make this an easy task!
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Old 06-22-2012, 10:09 AM   #23
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Ok you got me thinking. (don't tell my boss that cause live will get a lot harder if he finds out that I think).

I have a 2012 Salem and have never used the water tank. Always (2 trips ) used city water. When I filled my tank last weekend and tried to use the tank all I get is air out of the taps.
There is winterising (pink in colour) fluid in the filter before the pump.
Is there a switch to go between city water and tank or do I need to get rid if an air lock.
I have a coupler and 3 feet of clear hose to attach to the pump (when it's off). And can take water from a pail To prime the pump.

Pictures would help no doubt
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Old 06-23-2012, 07:17 AM   #24
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Ok you got me thinking. (don't tell my boss that cause live will get a lot harder if he finds out that I think).

I have a 2012 Salem and have never used the water tank. Always (2 trips ) used city water. When I filled my tank last weekend and tried to use the tank all I get is air out of the taps.
There is winterising (pink in colour) fluid in the filter before the pump.
Is there a switch to go between city water and tank or do I need to get rid if an air lock.
I have a coupler and 3 feet of clear hose to attach to the pump (when it's off). And can take water from a pail To prime the pump.

Pictures would help no doubt
If your system is like mine, there are no switches or valves to go from city water to tank supply. All I ended up doing was to fill the tank to at least half full, turn on the water pump, and then go around to the HW tank and hold the pressure release valve open for a few seconds. This purged most of the air from the tank, and it soon filled properly. Then I just opened each interior tap until a steady stream of water flowed through. I have not had any problem since ( fingers crossed here...)

Good luck!

Dave
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Old 06-23-2012, 07:27 AM   #25
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Have you replaced your water filter? A clogged filter will slow water pressure to a trickle regardless of hose pressure..
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Old 06-24-2012, 09:22 AM   #26
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Water has been used city wise 2 times and always with a filter in between the line in and he fill cap. Pump sucks water like A camel in the desert from a clear hose in a pail but not off my tank which is full
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Old 06-24-2012, 09:48 AM   #27
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Water has been used city wise 2 times and always with a filter in between the line in and he fill cap. Pump sucks water like A camel in the desert from a clear hose in a pail but not off my tank which is full
Some members here have experienced 3 way valve malfunctions in the water heater bypass system. Since it appears the same 3 way valve is used in the fresh water winterization system, that may be the problem. If water is being drawn from the antifreeze siphon, the you know the pump is good. Switch the valve, and see if it is still drawing from the antifreeze hose......if so, the 3 way valve is bad.
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Old 06-24-2012, 09:56 AM   #28
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I bought an A122 in march and love it. I am a first time Rv owner and don't know anything about setting the valves properly for the water system. There are no details for setting the valves in the owners manual. Where can you find information on the proper settings?
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Old 06-24-2012, 10:16 AM   #29
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I took the inlet off the pump. (raining again today so it's a gr8 day to get wet under the sink). The pump side came off very easily
The line in side has been found to be cross threaded onto the filter. Both sides bear the same scars
Hopes this is where the air is leaking.
The filter, although not plugged did have sawdust in the canister.
Cleaned it out and thread taped the Pump end and the filter end and will reattach.
Cross your fingers.
Simple things in life But.... When you get 10 or 15 of them. It's just annoying.
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Old 06-24-2012, 10:18 AM   #30
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I bought an A122 in march and love it. I am a first time Rv owner and don't know anything about setting the valves properly for the water system. There are no details for setting the valves in the owners manual. Where can you find information on the proper settings?
I don't know of any manual available.

Normally, if a valve handle is parallel with the line, it is open. If the valve handle is perpendicular with the line, the valve is closed.

With a 3 way valve, the valve handle should be in line with the water supply.
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Old 06-24-2012, 10:44 AM   #31
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I found my problem cause.
The water line coming out of the tank into the pump goes into the filter. The filter goes directly to the pump. The threads have been cross threaded at the water line side and caused the pump to suck air.

I don't know if it's the FR dealer who winterised the unit last fall or if the manufacturing process is to blame.
Off tomorrow to get a new filter housing. Thread tape has cured the problem at this point. Wouldn't hurt to have a spare though
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Old 06-24-2012, 11:22 AM   #32
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Sv 294

That sounds odd, I have a 2012 SV 294 and the winterize tube runs to a T-valve with the freshwater line right at the pump inlet. Maybe a photo of what you're looking at will help. But in our setup, when I finally un-bypassed the hw tank it didn't slow the pump down.
I had the same symptom initially - no water, pump on - but like someone pointed out earlier I had the dang valve turned to draw from the winterize line. Guess they don't make 'em all the same?
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Old 06-24-2012, 04:45 PM   #33
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Hope this helps....
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Old 06-24-2012, 05:16 PM   #34
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Guess they don't make 'em all the same?
remember, FR owns many brands, each with their own factory and design team.
only twin brands like Rockwood and Flagstaff, will be built the same and in the same factory.
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Old 06-24-2012, 08:37 PM   #35
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That would be too easy to design one platform for plumbing and run with it. Can't say it couldn't be done.
The electrical systems for lighting run off a common principal without many variants.
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:44 AM   #36
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Does anyone have a pic or link to pic/video that shows how the valaves are suppose to be for normal summer operation using fresh water tank and pump ? Are all 3 valaves suppose to be in the same position or is the bypass suppose to be different. here is an example (not my unit)
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Old 07-13-2012, 07:25 AM   #37
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Does anyone have a pic or link to pic/video that shows how the valaves are suppose to be for normal summer operation using fresh water tank and pump ? Are all 3 valaves suppose to be in the same position or is the bypass suppose to be different. here is an example (not my unit)
That is the operational valve positions for the water heater for camping. But it looks like you are asking about the fresh water tank valves ?? A picture of your fresh water system valves would be good if that is what you are asking.

The water heater valves are set the same whether on the fresh water pump, or city water supply.
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Old 07-13-2012, 08:35 AM   #38
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Was hard to find a picture when you need it LOL. so I used one that had the 3 valves, tried to crop it for just the valve pics but link kept it all. Sorry about that everyone. Looks like they left the bypass open after de-winterizing. Will head to traler at noon and verify but I think thats it. in/out parallel and bypass should be perpandicular.
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Old 07-18-2012, 08:58 AM   #39
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The most simple rule on the valves for MOST units is this:

Valve handle parallel to the water line = open (flowing) position

Valve handle perpendicular to the water line = closed (no flow) position

I have yet to see one that is different, but I'm sure there are exceptions.
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