Water pump runs fine, but no water

Triathletedave · 06-11-2012, 09:50 AM

I just spent a weekend dry camping, and was planning on using a full tank of fresh water for the weekend. I filled the fresh water tank (at least 3/4 full), but when we switched on the pump, there was no water.

The pump seems to be working fine, but there was no water pressure in the taps at all. I checked all fittings and valves, and everything seems fine there too. No leaks, at least nothing visible.

Any idea what might be wrong here? We have never had problems with leaks or pressure using a city water supply, but the fresh water system is failing.

TURBS · 06-11-2012, 10:11 AM

Was/is your hw tank full?

donn · 06-11-2012, 10:21 AM

HW heater tank not full or you have one of the winterize valves in the wrong position.

BeagleIL · 06-11-2012, 10:23 AM

Is it possible your valves are set for winterization, pulling water from the antifreeze source and not your fresh water tank?

rracer5 · 06-11-2012, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Triathletedave

I just spent a weekend dry camping, and was planning on using a full tank of fresh water for the weekend. I filled the fresh water tank (at least 3/4 full), but when we switched on the pump, there was no water.

The pump seems to be working fine, but there was no water pressure in the taps at all. I checked all fittings and valves, and everything seems fine there too. No leaks, at least nothing visible.

Any idea what might be wrong here? We have never had problems with leaks or pressure using a city water supply, but the fresh water system is failing.

Does the pump keep running or does it run then stop?
If it keeps running, check to see if you have the suction hose winterizing feature on your water pump, the valve for the suction hose may still be open. AND, the valve between the pump and the FW tank may be closed (as required during winterizing). Check those out and reverse the valves (open FW tank, close suction hose valve).

Let us know.

Fire Instructor · 06-11-2012, 10:24 AM

Plugged intake screen on pump? I would disconnect the pump intake and see if water drains from the tank. Most drain from the tank to the pump via gravity. With the intake exposed, check the screen (if there is one) to see if it's blocked.

If the tank drains via gravity, and the pumpscreen is fine, reconnect the intake pipe, and disconnect the discharge pipe. Turn the system on, and see if the pump is actually functioning.

TURBS · 06-11-2012, 10:35 AM

I'm think hw tank isn't full or wasn't and when he turns pump on it still filling the hw tank.

If valves are in winterize position it would still pump water to facets.
Unless as stated the winterize hose valve is open and sucking air.

dretired · 06-11-2012, 11:50 AM

i remember once.. when we first had our Puma TT.. i had forgot to screw the cap back -on the fresh water fill tube.. the pump kept running..once i realized that i forgot that cap.. the pump worked fine...lesson learned !!

OldCoot · 06-11-2012, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dretired

i remember once.. when we first had our Puma TT.. i had forgot to screw the cap back -on the fresh water fill tube.. the pump kept running..once i realized that i forgot that cap.. the pump worked fine...lesson learned !!

Don't know why screwing the cap on the fw tank fixed your problem, because there is no correlation between the cap and the pump. You should be able to take the cap off and have no effect whatsoever with the pump.

I would suspect the OP has a bypass valve(s) in the wrong position or something that easily fixed.

Rugged Brown · 06-11-2012, 01:19 PM

He must have got it working and is taking a long shower. I suspect it is a valve turned in the wrong direction.

Dave_Monica · 06-11-2012, 01:22 PM

Isn't there a check valve before (or after) the pump to prevent the FW tank from filling when on city water? If so, the check valve may be stuck closed not allowing water to be drawn from the tank.

Triathletedave · 06-11-2012, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rracer5

Does the pump keep running or does it run then stop?
If it keeps running, check to see if you have the suction hose winterizing feature on your water pump, the valve for the suction hose may still be open. AND, the valve between the pump and the FW tank may be closed (as required during winterizing). Check those out and reverse the valves (open FW tank, close suction hose valve).

Let us know.

The winterizing valves all (3) appear to be in the correct position based on the instructions and video. Plus, the winterizing suction hose is removed via a quick-connect at the same point where the fresh water line feeds into the pump (you can only have 1 connected at a time).

I'll check the HW tank tonight to see if it is full or empty. Does that affect fresh water draw if it is empty?

I was thinking of switching the fresh water line back over to the winterizing line, just to see if the pump would draw water from a bucket using the winterizing line. The only thing I can think of is a blockage in the fresh water feed line.

As for the pump, it seems to run constantly when turned on (I.E.: it will not stop due to sufficient pressure buildup). Does that mean that air is getting to the pump somehow?

MtnGuy · 06-11-2012, 01:41 PM

Dave, I think why a couple of members here are questioning whether your water heater is full, is that it takes a minute or 2 to fill that. The pump will run during that time without any water coming out of the faucets.

If you ran the pump for 5 minutes without a result, then you can scratch that idea.

Triathletedave · 06-11-2012, 01:46 PM

Sorry folks, but I'm not near the unit at the moment. I only have occasional access to this forum as well. I'll test all valves and other suggestions tonight. I'd hate to book a service appt for something simple.

In my defense, several other campers took a look at my system, and were equally baffled. Everything looks fine, including the valve positions. The pump hums merrily away, but no water!

Triathletedave · 06-12-2012, 09:00 AM

Follow-Up:

Turns out all of the valves were set properly after all. I went around to the HW tank and discovered that it was indeed empty. I opened the pressure relief valve, and immediately felt a blast of air from the tank. After that, I turned the pump on again, and it filled the HW tank first, then I had pressure (actual water) running in the taps!

Could there have been some sort of vapour lock on the HW tank? I was surprised by the blast of air from the valve, which I was not expecting at all.

Regardless, the whole system works now, using either the fresh water tank and the pump, or a city water source alone.

Thanks for the help and suggestions. You've saved me a service appt, which could have taken weeks!

TURBS · 06-12-2012, 09:04 AM

Good deal!
My ten gallon hw heater takes 15 minutes to fill.
And will not fill if pressure relief valve isn't open or hw tap is in off position.

That's why I questioned if it was full or not.

Emptypockets · 06-12-2012, 09:07 AM

[QUOTE=Triathletedave;209232]Follow-Up:

Could there have been some sort of vapour lock on the HW tank? I was surprised by the blast of air from the valve, which I was not expecting at all.

Yes, that is what is called a vapor or air lock - why I always use city water hook up & open the pressure relief valve first thing after the unit has been winterized - seems to do a better job of getting all of the air out of the lines.

TURBS · 06-12-2012, 09:42 AM

Triathletedave · 06-12-2012, 09:52 AM

Good to know. I'll be adding a new item to my winterizing / de-winterizing checklist!

TURBS · 06-12-2012, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Triathletedave

Good to know. I'll be adding a new item to my winterizing / de-winterizing checklist!

Another thing Dave,
I drain my hw heater after each use as I tend to get a sulfer smell if the water sits in tank for a few weeks.
This may or may not happen to you but just an Fyi.

You may also like: