Water pump wont shut off and no mostly air coming from faucet
Hi all my name is Tony,
New to the forum. I just un-winterized the TT today. All was going well until I got to the pump step. I filled the tank with water and turned on the pump. It ran and ran and ran and will still run if I turn it back on. I filled the hot water tank with water. still runs. all faucets are off. I dont see any visible leaks
this is a 2012 Shasta Revere 26TQBQ...
The dealer winterized it and I didnt want to spend $125 to basically drain the anti freeze and open a few valves.
I am not sure what to look for since the pump does run and I dont see leaks. Is there a step I missed?
thank in advance for any responses.
You say you've checked for leaks with the pump running was that inside and out? If the city water check valve isn't seated correctly water will spew from this hole with the pump on. Also, have you looked underneath to verify the low-point drain isn't spewing water when the pumps on? You say the hot water tank was filled, was this dome by the pump from the fresh water tank? And you say it's filled did you confirm this at the check valve on the hot water tank?
There's possibly a shut-off between the fresh water tank and the pump that might be turned off but if the water heater's full then that's unlikely.
Sounds like you are out of water. Your tank may be "water logged", or your pump may not be priming. We went self-contained camping a few weeks, so like you I filled up the freshwater tank.....so I thought. We had water the first night, the next morning I noticed my pump was running and mostly air was coming from the faucet. We were out of water, it seems the fill hose was in a position (about 4"'s higher than the fill cap) to allow a few gallons of water in but that was it. Once I noticed I pulled my filler neck out and cut off a good 6 inches, we transferred 2/3’s of water from my friends tank to mine with no problem.
theres most likely air in the system .... most likely in the water heater .
did you turn the water heater by pass valves ?
did you bleed the air out of the hot water tank ?
My money is on you "ran out of water" in the fresh tank.
While it is also possible that the pressure cut off switch or the one way check valve in the water pump have failed (both would let the pump run), I think you are sucking air.
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2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
Wow, I have to say what quick responses. I could hear the hot water tank filling and I released the pressure valve to get al the air out until water was coming out.
I dont have any other valves on this thing unless they are hidden beneath the underside cover. However that is unlikely considering how tough it is to get to the cover to remove it even for a small valve. I dont see any access points on it other than where the gas lines go in and out and those are sealed up.
There is no water coming out anywhere on any part of the TT. I just tried again and it seems to be sending some water but its sputtering.
I just filled it and it took a good amount of time to fill and the light indicator says I am on a full tank. One thing I did notice is that it says full but the green light is blinking when I hit the test levels button...
Could this be telling me there is a problem. I am going through all the books it came with concerning plumbing but they are very basic books.
When I take the strainer cap off, while the pump is running I dont hear any water or see any water coming though. How fool proof are these cheap plastic valves? Could the open close valved from the tank be stuck? or onlyh partially open?
OK, so here is what I did next, after seeing many of you tell me its out of water, I went back and filled the tank more. I slowed the water pressure and it took quite a bit more, maybe another 4 minutes of filling. I think went inside hit the switch and it worked. The pumped filled with water and stopped. Water now flows from the faucets. I think what is contributing is a leak though. Now that there is constant pressure on the fitting leading into the pump its leaking. So now I am draining that until I can get a new one. Perhaps not being completely full with this leak it was sucking in too much air and could not get enough pressure from the tank to get the water flowing???
Thanks all for you posts, I really appreciate all the help. Hopefully this will help others.
after our RVs have set a while with the water off
when turning back on
good idea to open slightly a couple of facet's
so as to let the air out
then once all air is out turn facet's off
pump should stop running in very short time
plus
this way we know for sure that water is being delivered
OK so now I have solved the complete mystery. At least why the valve was leaking. The fitting that connects the hose to the pump seemd like it was very wobbly and it was bottomed out as far as tightness goes, Almost like something was missing. The dealer is the only one who has done anything to this TT. They winterized it last year as well. I noticed one of those washers on the other side of the pump. Its one of those washers that is flat on one side and mounded on the other. So now things are adding up. Why that was there I have no idea, but I know it was there since I started the whole process. Otherwise I would not have had this issue. So my thought is the dealer removed this washer for some strange reason, perhaps in the event I didnt bring it to them to winterize I would have issues. IDK. However I wont be going back to that dealer again.
Not related to this I had it in there for some warranty work when they winterized it. The hot water heater would make a banging sound when it ignited, one of the speakers never worked from day one and my black water flush valve would not accept water. I assume the hot water heater and black water are fixed, but they never did fix the speaker. I couldnt try any of this when I left because it was all closed up and winterized. Hopefully those main issues did get repaired.
I know this is a long winded story, but it felt good venting.
Thanks again to all for the insight, it is very much appreciated.
after our RVs have set a while with the water off
when turning back on
good idea to open slightly a couple of facet's
so as to let the air out
then once all air is out turn facet's off
pump should stop running in very short time
plus
this way we know for sure that water is being delivered
Mountainman
X2 AND crack the valve on the spigot furthest from the pump.
Also an fyi.
In some cases you have to trickle the water into tank to get it full.
You can introduce water faster then air can escape from the tank, especially if you jamb the hose end into the fw fill spout.
A lot of people think when the spout starts burping out water its full when in fact its just trying to release built up air pressure.
. Now that there is constant pressure on the fitting leading into the pump its leaking. So now I am draining that until I can get a new one. Perhaps not being completely full with this leak it was sucking in too much air and could not get enough pressure from the tank to get the water flowing???
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Same problem with mine. I have isolated the leak to the elbow fitting just before the strainer - I think. I was also having the same air in the lines issue. I really hope replacing the elbow today fixes both the leak and air in the lines.
Mine leaked especially bad when I filled the FW tank all the way. If I turned the pump on it would slow or stop the leak. Was this similar to yours?
Same problem with mine. I have isolated the leak to the elbow fitting just before the strainer - I think. I was also having the same air in the lines issue. I really hope replacing the elbow today fixes both the leak and air in the lines.
Mine leaked especially bad when I filled the FW tank all the way. If I turned the pump on it would slow or stop the leak. Was this similar to yours?
It ended up being a missing washer in the elbow. Which I believe the dealer removed for some reason when they winterized it. There is no reason to remove that fitting or any other since I have the built in winterizing line T'd off at before the pump so it can suck in the anti-freeze. If that elbow is tightened all the way and still loose (wobbly) chances are that washer is either damaged or missing.
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TT - 2012 Shasta Revere 26TQBQ
TV - 2005 Nissan Titan LE CC
Mods, AEM Cold air intake, JBA Cat back exhaust, Bully Dog GT tuner, performance tune.
Thanks - I bet that's what it is. However, I am the one that installed the winterizing by-pass kit (newbie) so I probably knocked that washer out during the install. That's what I get for trying to do it myself.
Hope that a trip to the plumbing store tonight will fix the problem. It took me almost an hour last night to get the compression fitting off the hose because I did not have a PEX tool. Figures, it sounds like I could have just added a washer.
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