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Old 11-11-2016, 09:48 PM   #21
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Thanks. Yes, I did that. There was no back pressure in the lines and the WH hadn't even been filled. Will check the seals and valves in the spring. It is a real pain to get to through the little hatch that is only accessible when the slide out is in the open position. Unfortunately, the way the trailer is in the barn, there is no way to open the slide out without hitting the wall.
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Old 11-14-2016, 11:41 AM   #22
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The O-Ring

In my case, the O-ring was on the connector at the pump itself.

But I am sure there is probably an O-ring on every connector.
I would check every connection that you took apart and see if there you are missing an o-ring,
or if there is something causing the seal not to be tight (like a slight crack)
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Old 11-14-2016, 05:12 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
RSchleder,
I believe you and I may have discussed this before.
I am not doubting what you are saying you did.

But I will say, what you are describing makes absolutely no sense in how a fresh water system works. The fresh water tank is not a pressurized system on the suction side. In fact it HAS to get air into the system as you use water from the tank or a vacuum would occur and suck the sides of the tank in until the pump could no longer overcome the vacuum.

Adding air to the tank (during depletion of the of the liquid by the pump) is usually done with a vent line near the fill cap (mine are right next to each other) or sometimes a vent hose is inside somewhere. Because of the vent process I just described, sealing the fill cap would serve no purpose other than keep water from sloshing out the cap if the tank was filled fully.

I am truly baffled if what you say happens, really happens.
I have no idea whatsoever why sealing the fresh water fill cap would make the pump work??? I sure would love to examine your system.
Still not sure why it works when I have a "seal" on the filler tube, however to address your issue with getting air back into the tank, my trailer has a separate air vent for the fresh water tank. In other words--- there is a separate air vent with a small screen over the opening right next to the fresh water filler tube!
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Old 12-09-2016, 07:01 AM   #24
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Fill caps need replacement

Both my freshwater and city water fill caps had deteriorated to the point that they disintegrated. Anyone can recommend where to get replacements?
I just picked up my rv antifreeze and am going to winterize my motor home today.
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Old 12-09-2016, 07:16 AM   #25
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Both my freshwater and city water fill caps had deteriorated to the point that they disintegrated. Anyone can recommend where to get replacements?
I just picked up my rv antifreeze and am going to winterize my motor home today.
Ebay, amazon, a lot of rv dealers that have a parts and accessories section should have some.
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Old 12-09-2016, 12:52 PM   #26
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Picked up a couple at etrailer.com at a lower price than anyone. They're plastic screw on camco caps. Thanks for your recommendations!
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Old 01-02-2017, 07:10 PM   #27
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I am having this same problem. I have also verified that the pump works via pumping through the winterizing port. I don't have access to a faucet to test the city water port, but I am assuming it will work. I have a sneaking suspicion there is a crack in the line or a fitting between the pump and the tank on my Rockwood 2304. It looks daunting to start tearing the bottom out of the rig to access the tank and lines. Is there some easier way to access it?
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Old 01-02-2017, 07:30 PM   #28
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I'm hoping someone might be able to tell us.
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Old 01-02-2017, 07:38 PM   #29
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[QUOTE=Schvarak;1391891]You shouldn't be using the pump with city water connected. It's pressurized from the hose and doesn't get anywhere near the pump. Regarding the fresh water tank, I would think that if there is water above the tank hose to pump connection, there should be enough pressure from the water weight to keep the pump primed. My Caps at the fill connections weren't attached and the pump still worked perfectly! I'd suggest that is more likely there's a problem at the valve from the tank to the pump.
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Old 01-02-2017, 07:53 PM   #30
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Thanks. We'll look into that once the weather allows us to.
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Old 01-02-2017, 10:38 PM   #31
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I've just begun winter travels so I have to resolve this now. Thanks for your responses. I don't hear any air infiltration at the valve mentioned in the last response, but I will look more carefully tomorrow. I will be able to survive on city water for awhile, but will need on-board water sooner rather than later. Does anyone know what hardware is actually in the water tank and is it accessible? Is it likely to have frozen and broken if I didn't do an adequate winterizing job this fall?
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Old 01-03-2017, 03:31 AM   #32
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The only thing I can think of in the tank would be a water level gauge?
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Old 01-03-2017, 05:36 AM   #33
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All it take is one miniscule leak on the suction line anywhere between pump and tank and it will not prime.

Fresh water fill has nothing to do with anything. as mentioned the tank is not pressurized nor is it a pressurized system in anyway. The tank is, or should be, vented. The only thing I could Imagine the water fill would have to do with pumps priming would be if the cap is 100% air tight and the tank is not vented.
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Old 01-03-2017, 06:54 AM   #34
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All it take is one miniscule leak on the suction line anywhere between pump and tank and it will not prime.

Fresh water fill has nothing to do with anything. as mentioned the tank is not pressurized nor is it a pressurized system in anyway. The tank is, or should be, vented. The only thing I could Imagine the water fill would have to do with pumps priming would be if the cap is 100% air tight and the tank is not vented.
Yes this applies to "Both " posts that are going on here at the same time! Youroo! !
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Old 01-03-2017, 12:13 PM   #35
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Well, I have given it one last try this morning. I cannot find a problem between the pump and where the fresh water tank tubing goes down below the floor under the shower. I will be taking it to the dealer within the next two weeks and ask them to have a look. I'll post whatever we find.

Thanks to all of you for your help. You gave me things to check out before I pass it along to the dealer.
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Old 01-03-2017, 12:18 PM   #36
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You shouldn't be using the pump with city water connected. It's pressurized from the hose and doesn't get anywhere near the pump.
I agree one shouldn't use their pump while the system is pressurized by city water but I don't understand the "anywhere near the pump" comment. My system may be different but city water is pressurized into the back end of my pump so that's 'anywhere near' in my view. That's why my pump has an anti-reversing check valve as mentioned above. It's the round plastic piece in the center of this pic.
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Old 01-03-2017, 12:24 PM   #37
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Our pump went bad within a year. Dealer traded me for old bad pump and I installed the new one and it works great.
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Old 01-12-2017, 08:30 AM   #38
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I spoke to the mechanic last week and he strongly urged me to start with more water in the tank when I get to the campground. I did that and, sure enough, the pump primed fairly quickly. I got off easy. I know others of you have tried this and it wasn't the solution to your problem

I appreciate all of you who contributed your expertise and discussion.
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Old 01-12-2017, 08:52 AM   #39
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The tank was full, and I cleaned the screen strainer. But thanks for the suggestions.
This was covered by the "OP" of this post,the most recent post is a "Piggyback"! Youroo!!
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Old 01-12-2017, 09:20 PM   #40
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Ouch. Was I just chastised?
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