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Old 12-25-2015, 09:49 PM   #11
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Thanks for thoughts. Merry Christmas!
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Old 12-25-2015, 09:56 PM   #12
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Merry Christmas!
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Old 12-26-2015, 12:30 PM   #13
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The fix might be easier than expected. Depends where the leak is occurring. If the leak is coming from the plastic/nylon fitting to tubing joint. Then the point about using the proper fitting type should solve it. The are typically 1/2" NPT thread fittings (male or female) and have a barbed end (more jagged and sharp pointed than the PEX fitting) or PEX end at the tubing interface. Proper clamping of the tubing is required. If the leak is coming from the threaded end, you can remove the fitting and wrap the threaded with two or three layers of Teflon tape and screw it back in. Hand tighten and 1/2 turn. Don't over tighten or you may crack the female side of the joint. Hope this helps.
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Old 12-26-2015, 04:10 PM   #14
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Braided vs Pex

I was going to use the braided line to get into a tight space, but noticed the braided pipe had a larger ID. I spoke to a knowledgeable person in a home improvements store. He advised against using the braided line with pex fittings because it is a guaranteed leak. A pex crimping tool is used to set pex clinch rings. The tool is designed to crimp an exact amount. You can't release the tool until it has fully crrimped the fitting. However, because the braided line has the larger ID, the tool can not fully cinch a waterproof connection.

I found a piece of clear pex that was much more flexible than the red and blue. No leaks. Another suggestion-anytime you replace a fitting, use brass rather than plastic.

A good investment for the tool box is a pex crimping tool and a bag of 1/2" cinch rings. A few of the more common brass fittings would round out the kit.This is one of those things that takes up space, but when you have to change a fitting or fix a leak, you will be glad you have it.

http://www.amazon.com/Pex-Cinch-Clam...+crimping+tool
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Old 12-26-2015, 04:19 PM   #15
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[QUOTE=PenJoe;1064866]I was going to use the braided line to get into a tight space, but noticed the braided pipe had a larger ID. I spoke to a knowledgeable person in a home improvements store. [I]He advised against using the braided line with pex fittings because it is a guaranteed leak. [I]A pex crimping tool is used to set pex clinch rings. The tool is designed to crimp an exact amount. You can't release the tool until it has fully crrimped the fitting. However, because the braided line has the larger ID, the tool can not fully cinch a waterproof connection.

And yet, despite the fact it is not correct and will leak, it is standard practice on virtually all RVs!
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Old 12-26-2015, 05:52 PM   #16
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Op, i had leaks on similar lines in my sabre after i removed the water filter housing. I ended up replacing with nylon barbed ends with pipe threads on the other end. I placed 2 automotive type hose clamps on the line that was slid over the barbed end. Worked great, no problems since!
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Old 12-27-2015, 03:26 PM   #17
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Ditto on replacing it yourself; pex is easy.

Rv tech or plumber very expensive. I once paid $300 at a campground to a rv tech on site to replace a leaking faucet. I now carry most of my plumbing tools to do it myself.
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Old 01-25-2016, 10:13 PM   #18
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Always carry automotive type hose clamps to replace the compression type that are used throughout the water system. They are leaking on my Sabre. No way to tighten them up. As usual, the cheapest materials are used for quick manufacturing when these mobile housing units are pushed out the factory. Also carry some small toggle bolts to replace the wood screws that hold the window shade cords to the bottom of the window.


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Old 01-25-2016, 10:37 PM   #19
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Good suggestion to carry extra clamps. The cinch clamps used are high quality and will rarely leak when used in the correct application. The problem is they are often misused by RV manufacturers and subsequently are labeled as bad.
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Old 02-05-2016, 11:34 PM   #20
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Update: Still chasing leaks. 2013 Sabre, The original Pex clamps on the white flexible hoses are loose. By repairing one others are beginning to leak. The Pex clamps are very difficult to remove. What appears to work is to add an additional screw type hose clamp right next to the Pex clamp. There is enough area on the fitting for this. Tighten it up and the leak is gone. I have 22 left to "duplicate clamp".

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A1THAZDOWP300U

Above Amazon link for bulk hose clamps.

The plumbing arrangement and installation is a complete mess. You need to remove the panels in the basement and take a look. Unless you are unable to add redundant clamps at all pressurized connections I would expect many repair visits for leaks. Forest River should be ashamed of this. They must be aware of this unacceptable practice. Good Luck asking them for repairing this factory mistake.
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Attached photos show where I have installed some redundant clamps and connections that will leak. I plan on installing redundant clamps on all connections.

Please comment if anyone finds fault in doing this. I'm not a plumber........ Doing them all at one time I hope will be the end of this issue.




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