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Old 02-05-2016, 11:48 PM   #21
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Funny that you post this. I just posted an angry rant on the "what did you do to your camper today?" thread about the same thing- another leak in my Sabre.

You're right that busting/twisting off the existing cinch clamps is a mofo. I never thought to double them up.
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Old 02-06-2016, 12:01 AM   #22
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I have a big set of cutters from work made by Thomas and Betts. I used them to cut the pinched part of crimp clamp and then they come off fairly easily.
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Old 02-06-2016, 01:35 AM   #23
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That reminds me.....i need to get more hose clamps.
Thanks for bringing this thread up again!!!

Going to the lake tomorrow to check on our, pink induced a coma, Sabre!
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Old 02-06-2016, 09:59 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The pope View Post
Update: Still chasing leaks. 2013 Sabre, The original Pex clamps on the white flexible hoses are loose. By repairing one others are beginning to leak. The Pex clamps are very difficult to remove. What appears to work is to add an additional screw type hose clamp right next to the Pex clamp. There is enough area on the fitting for this. Tighten it up and the leak is gone. I have 22 left to "duplicate clamp".

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A1THAZDOWP300U

Above Amazon link for bulk hose clamps.

The plumbing arrangement and installation is a complete mess. You need to remove the panels in the basement and take a look. Unless you are unable to add redundant clamps at all pressurized connections I would expect many repair visits for leaks. Forest River should be ashamed of this. They must be aware of this unacceptable practice. Good Luck asking them for repairing this factory mistake.Attachment 99006Attachment 99007Attachment 99008

Attached photos show where I have installed some redundant clamps and connections that will leak. I plan on installing redundant clamps on all connections.

Please comment if anyone finds fault in doing this. I'm not a plumber........ Doing them all at one time I hope will be the end of this issue.




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I took some photos of the differences between pex and barbed fittings and tubing including a close-up of a brass pex tee and a stainless steel barbed. Both types of fittings come in metal and various types of plastic and the tubing comes in multiple colors as well. Also posted pictures of the tools needed to make it much easier to correct the factory plumbing.

Pex tubing belongs on pex fittings with pex cinch clamps. Braided tubing belongs on barbed fittings with either worm drive clamps or the correct size cinch type clamps. The ID and ODs are slightly different between the two types of fittings and tubing so that is why it is important to use the correct type.
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Old 02-06-2016, 12:16 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KenHwy61 View Post
I took some photos of the differences between pex and barbed fittings and tubing including a close-up of a brass pex tee and a stainless steel barbed. Both types of fittings come in metal and various types of plastic and the tubing comes in multiple colors as well. Also posted pictures of the tools needed to make it much easier to correct the factory plumbing.

Pex tubing belongs on pex fittings with pex cinch clamps. Braided tubing belongs on barbed fittings with either worm drive clamps or the correct size cinch type clamps. The ID and ODs are slightly different between the two types of fittings and tubing so that is why it is important to use the correct type.
To add to this information, there are three types of Pex tubing commonly used for plumbing. They are: Pex-A which is very flexible; Pex-B which is the red and blue you see in your plumbing (or white); and Pex-C which is orange and holds the bend. This is a must see YouTube video for a really clear explanation:



We had very little braided pipe on our 2500TS. When I added a winterizing valve, I got rid of the braided and used Pex-A which is just as flexible. This is a translucent milky white color and uses Pex fittings.

My suggestion is to find a plumbing shop that will sell you a length of Pex-A because it is the most expensive and you won't need a coil. Pex-B is available at most building supply locations in short lengths. Use Pex-B (the red and blue) where you can and Pex-A to replace the braided. Change the plastic fittings to brass as your plastic fittings will be damaged trying to remove them. Do not attempt to use a new fitting inside a previously crimped pipe end as it will likely leak. Happy plumbing!
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Old 02-06-2016, 10:00 PM   #26
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What's your opinion on double clamping? Quick and eazy.... = OK ?


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Old 02-07-2016, 08:39 AM   #27
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You can try adding a second clamp. You already have leaks so you have nothing to lose and if it works, problem solved. Or correcting those leaking pex tee/braided hose combos could easily be done and you won't have leaks. Once you have the tools, to correct what you show in your photos would likely only take a few hours. The tools are on Amazon for less than $50 for both. The pliers are made by Knipex. Pex tubing and clamps are inexpensive. If you plan on keeping your camper long-term I would fix it the right way.
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Old 02-07-2016, 01:42 PM   #28
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A cinch clamp takes most of the real estate of the barbed fitting end. A second clamp will only catch the very tip. If it stops the leak, go for it. But it is best to just redo it. Use the right pex fitting, the right pipe, the right clamp, sit back and admire your prowess.

Any project you stand back and look at may look intimidating. When you get into it, not really that hard. My observation has always been, if somebody else can do it, so can I. Well, to a point. I have no intention of walking across the Grand Canyon on a tight rope.
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