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Old 03-28-2016, 01:39 PM   #1
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When are the holding tanks REALLY full?

I have now been 6 weeks full timing in my Cedar Creek 36CKTS. The idiot lights showing my waste tank levels (1 black 2 gray) seem to be useless. After dumping (using a visual attachment) the black will show empty after an hour of back flushing with hot water, and the grey, after being open for 2 hours shows no more water draining but two lights lite. My question is how do I know when the tanks are actually full? Looking down the toilet the pipe takes a 45 degree turn, so I can't see the tank itself. The idiot lights show 4 after a few showers and dumps. I know it is too soon for them to be full. Your thoughts?
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Old 03-28-2016, 01:48 PM   #2
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Oh, you'll know it's full when you can start to see the stanky water.

I can't tell you the last time that I looked at the idiot panel.

For our black tank, we wait until the toilet "burps" at us. This is approximately every 6-8 days. We then either empty the 1/2 bath toilet also OR do that every other time. Apparently the kids don't go nearly as frequent or as much as us adults.

For our gray tanks, we generally empty the shower every other day OR leave it open OR wait until the water backs up into the shower basin. Depending on our mood. The sink tank gets emptied periodically as we're emptying other tanks and rarely fills up.

We use the Geo method and that supposedly makes a difference in sensor cleanliness. But again- don't look at them so I don't know.
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Old 03-28-2016, 02:27 PM   #3
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Thank you. I just started using the geo method.
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Old 03-28-2016, 09:15 PM   #4
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I can attest to the geo method, for the gray and kitchen tanks. If your having light issues in these tanks use a double dose of dishwasher soap initially.

I use an enzyme based treatment for the black tank, that is not chemical based so as not to cause struvites. On a long trip I use a Rid X treatment, you would be amazed at what comes out of what you thought was a clean tank.
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Old 03-30-2016, 05:57 AM   #5
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What is the geo method? We don't have sensor problems in the tank, yet, but like to know options and good prevention.
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Old 03-30-2016, 06:12 AM   #6
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the Geo Method- https://sites.google.com/site/cbruni/
I never go by those lights. Like was said above, when the toilet burps it's getting close to being dumped. When hooked up the grey water tanks are left open until a day or so before dumping the black tank.
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Old 03-30-2016, 06:30 AM   #7
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It is easier to Judge your Tanks "Fresh/Gray/Black" if Only 2 people use the unit! If "Kids/Grand Kids/Guests/ are using the unit also", ALL BETS ARE OFF! After just a Few outings you will know your usage/average! and forget the "tank gauges"! Youroo!!
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Old 03-30-2016, 08:33 AM   #8
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I have been using calgon for about ten years. Started with powder and changed to liquid calgon. I also have a clear connection at the dump connection to RV. when you dump and flush well with the black flush it is surprising how clear the water ends up being. I have had no problems with the tanks.
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Old 03-30-2016, 09:55 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pipeman View Post
the Geo Method- https://sites.google.com/site/cbruni/
I never go by those lights. Like was said above, when the toilet burps it's getting close to being dumped. When hooked up the grey water tanks are left open until a day or so before dumping the black tank.
Thanks for the link-good info.
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Old 03-30-2016, 01:26 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pipeman View Post
the Geo Method- https://sites.google.com/site/cbruni/
I never go by those lights. Like was said above, when the toilet burps it's getting close to being dumped. When hooked up the grey water tanks are left open until a day or so before dumping the black tank.
I'm a new full-timer, and I like the idea of the GEO method. It does smell better than chemicals -- a lot better. (My vents backup into the cabin, and I'm working on fixing that with a swivel vent.)

I'm having trouble reconciling what some have told me about the specific materials used in RVs being susceptible to erosion from chlorine products. I made note of the fact that the author has knowledge of chemistry, physics, and biology, so decided to ask anyone here about the differing types of rubber products used in RVs vs. those used in laundry facilities. My college chemistry classes gave me enough knowledge to be dangerous. For instance, I am very, very aware of the explosive dangers of mixing chemicals, but I never considered that there were different kinds of rubber.
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Old 03-30-2016, 04:54 PM   #11
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I've never owned an RV with accurate tank sensors. In fact, I don't think I've ever looked at mine in the current RV. You will know for sure when a tank is absolutely full and must be dumped, quickly, when water backs up in your sinks, shower drain and toilet, not necessarily in that order.
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Old 03-30-2016, 05:27 PM   #12
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I wondered the same thing about the rubber pieces. I use a funnel to shoot the Geo mixture past the toilet stopper (rubber edge). Will need to examine the whole system to see if there are other rubber connector pieces that can be damaged.

I'm not a full timer so I just mix the three ingredients before heading out in an empty water bottle then shoot into the tank after I flush. I did notice the water bottle getting warm when they are first mixed, I wonder if they lose their effectiveness when pre-mixed and sit for a while. Hey s*!t (<- "stuff") happens
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Old 03-30-2016, 07:36 PM   #13
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Regarding the GEO method, I do not use the bleach. Most soaps including the cascade dishwasher soap is antibacterial. Have not had issue with odors. I only use this method for the gray tanks. As posted earlier I use a natural enzyme based treatment for the black tank, I have added the fabric softener to the black tank 1/3 filled with just water. This was more for valve lubrication than stuff sticking to the side walls.
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