Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-21-2009, 10:44 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,552
Momma Tac, after crawling up under the trailer again, I found where the drains come down, well hidden between the frame and tub. After determining approximately where they should be inside, they are completely impossible to get to without doing as you did and make another door.

This helps confirm that the people that design these things never actually use them.
__________________

__________________

Hokiehall is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2009, 01:33 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 106
Hay...mystery solved!! You are correct that they are next to impossible to get to/reach. Attached is a picture of the opening under the tub that my husband used before we had the outside door put in. He laid on the floor in front of the couch in order to get his arm in the opening and then he barely reached the valves to open the drains.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Opening under tub (Small).jpg
Views:	135
Size:	30.0 KB
ID:	1968  
__________________

__________________
Momma Tac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2009, 02:52 PM   #13
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 4
Low Point drains on Flagstaff 829RGSS

My low point drains are clearly visable on my Flagstaff 829RGSS at the rear of the trailer. There are two grey pipes with caps protruding through the sealed bottom. As far as the inside water filter goes, Camco I believe makes a stainless steel disk with a gasket that you can put inside you filter housing after draining and removing the filter before winterizing to keep from filling up the housing with antifreeze.
__________________
ColemanJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2009, 07:54 AM   #14
Member
 
dichayer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 83
I have a Surveyor and it does have low point drains. On mine they are under the bathroom and are a red and blue pipe pointing down with grey covers. Put the anode back or you will get a bunch of rust on the threads.
Dick
__________________
dichayer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2009, 01:18 PM   #15
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 2
how do you get the gray caps off the low point drains?

I have a 2010 surveyor 235rks and this is my first year trying to winterize it. I looked underneath the trailer and see about 5 lines with caps protruding through the bottom of the trailer. A set of two by the back left wheel, one next to the right left wheel and two further up red and blue I believe possibly under where the bathroom sink would be. They all have gray caps on the end that looked like they twisted onto threded ends. Which of these do I need to unscrew and drain and how do I get them off? I tried hand unscrewing and it was too tight to do and I tried using a wrench and it turned the whole tube and not gray cap. Other than taking the caps off do I need to open some type of valve? Pictures, tools needed and instructions would be a great help. I'm new at RV ownership and self maintanence. thanks!
__________________
rms1350 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2009, 05:27 PM   #16
Moderator Emeritus
 
MtnGuy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 9,274
Quote:
Originally Posted by rms1350 View Post
I tried hand unscrewing and it was too tight to do and I tried using a wrench and it turned the whole tube and not gray cap.
I don't know about the rest of your questions, but I believe that I can answer this part. Hold the tube with a wrench as you use another wrench to take the cap off. Snug the tube back up so that is won't come off on the road somewhere. I had the same thing happen when I tried to take a couple of my caps off for the 1st time.
__________________

Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
MtnGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2009, 09:22 PM   #17
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 2
thanks Mtnguy for your help. I finally got the caps off the low point drains but having issues getting the anode rod off. the screw is metal and rusted and on there extremely tight. I guess Im going to have to get a special rachet to get it off my adjustable wrench didnt do the job, it didnt even budge.

Does anyone know exactly were the bypass valve is on a 2010 surveyor 235rks? I cant find it so was wondering if it even has one? If I drain water from my low point drains and drain the hot water heater and pour antifreeze down all drains and toilet do I really need to blow the lines or bypass the lines with antifreeze? If I leave some water in the gray or black water tank will it freeze and cause damage too? If so do you blow those lines too and how would you do that?
__________________
rms1350 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2010, 12:46 PM   #18
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Maritimes, Canada
Posts: 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by rms1350 View Post
I have a 2010 surveyor 235rks and this is my first year trying to winterize it. I looked underneath the trailer and see about 5 lines with caps protruding through the bottom of the trailer. A set of two by the back left wheel, one next to the right left wheel and two further up red and blue I believe possibly under where the bathroom sink would be. They all have gray caps on the end that looked like they twisted onto threded ends. Which of these do I need to unscrew and drain and how do I get them off? I tried hand unscrewing and it was too tight to do and I tried using a wrench and it turned the whole tube and not gray cap. Other than taking the caps off do I need to open some type of valve? Pictures, tools needed and instructions would be a great help. I'm new at RV ownership and self maintanence. thanks!
This is an old thread but in case someone is looking to do the same thing later, I'll go through what I was able to identify on my 2011 235RKS while winterizing it.

First, when removing the caps, it's good to ensure there is no pressure in the plumbing system. To do this, just open the hot/cold water on any faucet or tap (be sure the pump is off too).

Use an crescent wrench or even better, a pair of gas pliers to remove the drainage caps. Be sure to hold the pipe from twisting while removing the caps (right to tight, left to loose......goes without saying but still).
  • When facing the trailer from the hitch, your hot and cold low point drains will be on the right side under where the shower would be in the trailer. If you remove the panel under your pantry cupboard, you will see where they protrude through the floor.
  • The fresh water tank drain is underneath the left side of the vehicle and approximately between the trailer wheels.
  • There are also two more caps back by the trailers right wheels. One appeared to be a vent for the fresh water tank (so open this while you have the fresh water tank draining, it will go much faster). The other one I'm not sure about and didn't bother to trace it back.
There are 2 main places you need access to inside for winterizing the 235RKS:
  1. Under the bathroom sink (water filter, pump, antifreeze siphon)
  2. Under the dinette seat closest to the bed (hot water tank, bypass valves)
I highly recommend using the compressed air method to blow out the lines before adding the antifreeze. I made a tool that screws into the main water line from outside and has a quick disconnect for the air compressor (male ended section of garden hose, hose clamp, 1/4" brass female to female connector, 1/4" air hose coupler). This method makes it alot easier to get out the water filter without making a mess and also makes sure you have 100% antifreeze in the lines during the winter. Last but not least, don't forget to winterize the outside shower!!!!
__________________
mtl4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2010, 02:29 PM   #19
Wanna Be Camper
 
SaskCampers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan
Posts: 2,370


Winterizing Tips
These are suggestions only please refer to your owner’s manual if you have any questions.


·Disconnect any water sources from RV and empty grey and black tanks.

·Locate fresh water drain and open valve. Open all low point drain valves. Not all RV’s have this option. Once water stops draining out of low pt drain close valve.

·Relieve pressure from water heater before draining. The pressure and temperature relief valve is usually located at the top in the middle.

·Take plug out of water heater to drain. Plastic plug is in Atwood heaters and 7/8” socket will remove the plug. Metal plug with an anode rod is for Suburban water heaters. 1 1/16” socket is needed to remove.
·Get access the back of the water heater. Bypass the water heater. Some have three valves to bypass and others only one. Direction of the valve shows the direction of water flow.
·On three valve water heater: close cold water inlet valve, close hot water outlet valve. Open bypass valve between the two.
·Single valve bypass will be near the bottom by the cold water inlet. Turn valve quarter turn to bypass. There is a check valve at the hot water outlet so that RV antifreeze will not flow back into the water heater.
If you have a water filter canister, open and remove filter. You have options on how to winterize the water filter.
1)Remove canister and install a bypass hose with 2 nipple ends to ensure RV anti-freeze bypasses water filter system. We have the parts available in our Parts department. (Recommended method)
2)Install a bypass plate and gasket into the top of the filter. This will prevent the canister from filling with RV anti-freeze. Water filter plate is available in our Parts Department
3)Put the canister back on without the filter and let RV antifreeze fill the canister and continue through the system. (There still a risk of cracking the canister when the antifreeze expands in the cold)

·Go to your water pump. Some RV’s come with a siphon hose already attached to the pump.


If yours does you will need to open the valve to the siphon hose and close the valve to fresh water tank.
  • If you do not have a siphon hose supplied you will need to make one.
  • Once you have a siphon hose, disconnect the inlet fitting to the pump and install the winterizing siphon hose.
  • Insert open end of siphon hose into the jug of antifreeze.

·Turn on water pump and then open all your taps one by one until the pink to flowing through the taps.
·E.g.: open hot tap on bathroom sink until pink shows, then close hot tap. Now open cold tap until pink shows. Continue on through out the RV doing all taps and toilets.

DO NOT forget about your outside shower!!

A tip from our techs:
Remove shower heads from both the inside and outside showers while winterizing. No chance of forgetting a shower head and having it freeze and crack!

·Turn off water pump.
·Depressurize system by opening up a cold tap
·Pour RV antifreeze down all your sinks and toilets. To make sure no water is left in any p-traps and also to protect your dump gate valves.


SECOND BEST METHOD – Blowing Out the Lines
1.Drain fresh water tank.
2.Drain hot water heater.
3.Dump and flush both black and gray water holding tanks, leave gray water valve open.
4.Screw compressed air adaptor into the fresh water inlet. The adapter is available in our Parts Department.
5.Apply compressed air, keeping the pressure less than 20 PSI.
6.Open each faucet, one valve at a time, allowing the compressed air to blow out the remaining water. Reinstall drain plug.
7.Remove the compressed air source and adapter.
8.Pour a few cups of RV antifreeze down each drain and toilet.
9.You’re done!


__________________

John & Deb
2011 F250 Lariat FX4 Crew Cab 6.2
2011 Flagstaff V-Lite 30WRLS
Days Camped 2016: 3 2017: 0
SaskCampers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2010, 09:12 PM   #20
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 10
I just can not figure out why this would not work for me.. I bought a 2008 Rockwood Ultra Lite signature this year, and a 10 minute winterize job turned into a 2 hour job. I cant understand why it did not work like its suppose to. Heres a quote from first page of thread: 3) There should be a valve near your water pump; one way goes the the fresh tank and the other to a short hose. Turn the valve to the short hose. This hose will be used to suck the RV anti-freeze into the system. 4) Buy about 3 gallons of pink RV anti-freeze 5) When I tried this it would not suck the antifreeze at all. I even went and put a gallon in thre fresh tank and switched the valve to the down position and it still would not suck the antifreeze in. So after messing around, I disconnected the hose to the pump and only had a smaller diameter hose and had to hold it against the pump to make it suck the antifreeze and it worked! Why would it not take when I had the valve turned on the short hose or to the fresh water tank? I even took it off and blew in it and it was not clogged.
__________________

__________________
Chris357 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:00 PM.