Winterize

[kahayes44]

Can anyone tell me how to winterize a Surveyor trailer. I cannot find the low point drains and are there valves that need to be shut off.

[acadianbob]

Here is what I think I know! : - )
The only drain you need to find is the fresh water tank. Should stick straight down out of the tank. Looks just like the end of a garden hose.
Then! 1) Bypass the water heater. It should be pre-equiped with a bypass.
2) Unscrew the anode rod from the water heater to drain it. Leave it out for the winter 3) There should be a valve near your water pump; one way goes the the fresh tank and the other to a short hose. Turn the valve to the short hose. This hose will be used to suck the RV anti-freeze into the system. 4) Buy about 3 gallons of pink RV anti-freeze 5) Stick the short hose in the bottle. 6) turn on each hot water faucet, one by one, until pink. don't forget the shower hose and outside shower 7) replace RV anti-freeze bottles as they empty 8) turn on each cold water faucet on by one until pink 9) now run toilet until pink 10) make sure each sink/tub trap has enough pink in it not to freeze 11) perhaps first but make sure black and grey tanks are emptied. doesn't hurt if some RV Anti-freeze gets in tanks 12) might also want to go outside, find the city water inlet, take out the screen, push the little valve to get pink in the city inlet. keep your face out of the way or you'll get a face wash! 13) disconnect your battery and put a battery minder on it to keep it charged and minimize sulfation 14) thank yourself for doing an easy job and saving yourself $150.

[Hokiehall]

My Flagstaff 26 RKS does not have low point drains. I follow acadianbob's directions listed above. It doesn't take terribly long to do it either, no more than an hour.

[steveqvs]

You might want to remove your paper water filter cartridge if so equipped. I think some one here mentioned they never saw pink come out of the faucets because the filter cleaned the pink out. Also when you are all done, its a good idea to drain out the cartridge holder. It will be completely full of the pink antifreeze and some say it might not freeze but might expand and could cause the cartridge to break.

[acadianbob]

steve, ironically that was ME!! forgot to take out the filter and wasted lots of RV antifreeze! And now I failed to put it in my instructions!! HA! Good catch! Thank you. Bob

[Momma Tac]

Hokiehall...we have the same floorplan as you (2008 Rockwood 2605s) and the low point drains in our travel trailer are under the bath tub. I would think all travel trailers would have low point drains. Just a comment.

[Hokiehall]

Originally Posted by Momma Tac

Hokiehall...we have the same floorplan as you (2008 Rockwood 2605s) and the low point drains in our travel trailer are under the bath tub. I would think all travel trailers would have low point drains. Just a comment.

Well, I never thought about there as I could never find where they came down under the trailer ( and I crawled all under the thing). Where exactly are they on yours in relation to the bathtub? I would like to go out over the weekend to see if I can find them.

[Momma Tac]

The low point drains go through the floor directly under the bath tub and are real close to the frame in front of the wheels. The drains in our TT extend about 2" and are visible from underneath the TT. Do you have an opening under the bath tub directly across from the stool next to the floor? That is where we got to the low point drains to open them up before we added the access door from the outside. Don't feel bad about not knowing where the low point drains are on your TT, we had to call FR and asked them where they were. I've attached a picture showing the low point drains under the tub and the access door we had added for convenience. Hope this helps.

[ljcpmc]

What is the reason for leaving out the anode rod after draining system? I finished draining my heater and put the rod back in.

[Hokiehall]

Originally Posted by ljcpmc

What is the reason for leaving out the anode rod after draining system? I finished draining my heater and put the rod back in.

I put mine back in. Rust can form on the threads of the water heater and make it difficult, if not impossible to put in later so leave it in. Be sure to put the plumbers tape on the threads as usual. Flush it out again real good when you de-winterize in the spring.

Thanks for the pic Momma Tac. I'll be going in mine this weekend to see what I can find.

[Hokiehall]

Momma Tac, after crawling up under the trailer again, I found where the drains come down, well hidden between the frame and tub. After determining approximately where they should be inside, they are completely impossible to get to without doing as you did and make another door.

This helps confirm that the people that design these things never actually use them.

[Momma Tac]

Hay...mystery solved!! You are correct that they are next to impossible to get to/reach. Attached is a picture of the opening under the tub that my husband used before we had the outside door put in. He laid on the floor in front of the couch in order to get his arm in the opening and then he barely reached the valves to open the drains.

[ColemanJ]

My low point drains are clearly visable on my Flagstaff 829RGSS at the rear of the trailer. There are two grey pipes with caps protruding through the sealed bottom. As far as the inside water filter goes, Camco I believe makes a stainless steel disk with a gasket that you can put inside you filter housing after draining and removing the filter before winterizing to keep from filling up the housing with antifreeze.

[dichayer]

I have a Surveyor and it does have low point drains. On mine they are under the bathroom and are a red and blue pipe pointing down with grey covers. Put the anode back or you will get a bunch of rust on the threads.
Dick

[rms1350]

I have a 2010 surveyor 235rks and this is my first year trying to winterize it. I looked underneath the trailer and see about 5 lines with caps protruding through the bottom of the trailer. A set of two by the back left wheel, one next to the right left wheel and two further up red and blue I believe possibly under where the bathroom sink would be. They all have gray caps on the end that looked like they twisted onto threded ends. Which of these do I need to unscrew and drain and how do I get them off? I tried hand unscrewing and it was too tight to do and I tried using a wrench and it turned the whole tube and not gray cap. Other than taking the caps off do I need to open some type of valve? Pictures, tools needed and instructions would be a great help. I'm new at RV ownership and self maintanence. thanks!

[MtnGuy]

Originally Posted by rms1350

I tried hand unscrewing and it was too tight to do and I tried using a wrench and it turned the whole tube and not gray cap.

I don't know about the rest of your questions, but I believe that I can answer this part. Hold the tube with a wrench as you use another wrench to take the cap off. Snug the tube back up so that is won't come off on the road somewhere. I had the same thing happen when I tried to take a couple of my caps off for the 1st time.

[rms1350]

thanks Mtnguy for your help. I finally got the caps off the low point drains but having issues getting the anode rod off. the screw is metal and rusted and on there extremely tight. I guess Im going to have to get a special rachet to get it off my adjustable wrench didnt do the job, it didnt even budge.

Does anyone know exactly were the bypass valve is on a 2010 surveyor 235rks? I cant find it so was wondering if it even has one? If I drain water from my low point drains and drain the hot water heater and pour antifreeze down all drains and toilet do I really need to blow the lines or bypass the lines with antifreeze? If I leave some water in the gray or black water tank will it freeze and cause damage too? If so do you blow those lines too and how would you do that?

[mtl4]

Originally Posted by rms1350

I have a 2010 surveyor 235rks and this is my first year trying to winterize it. I looked underneath the trailer and see about 5 lines with caps protruding through the bottom of the trailer. A set of two by the back left wheel, one next to the right left wheel and two further up red and blue I believe possibly under where the bathroom sink would be. They all have gray caps on the end that looked like they twisted onto threded ends. Which of these do I need to unscrew and drain and how do I get them off? I tried hand unscrewing and it was too tight to do and I tried using a wrench and it turned the whole tube and not gray cap. Other than taking the caps off do I need to open some type of valve? Pictures, tools needed and instructions would be a great help. I'm new at RV ownership and self maintanence. thanks!

This is an old thread but in case someone is looking to do the same thing later, I'll go through what I was able to identify on my 2011 235RKS while winterizing it.

First, when removing the caps, it's good to ensure there is no pressure in the plumbing system. To do this, just open the hot/cold water on any faucet or tap (be sure the pump is off too).

Use an crescent wrench or even better, a pair of gas pliers to remove the drainage caps. Be sure to hold the pipe from twisting while removing the caps (right to tight, left to loose......goes without saying but still).

• When facing the trailer from the hitch, your hot and cold low point drains will be on the right side under where the shower would be in the trailer. If you remove the panel under your pantry cupboard, you will see where they protrude through the floor.

• The fresh water tank drain is underneath the left side of the vehicle and approximately between the trailer wheels.

• There are also two more caps back by the trailers right wheels. One appeared to be a vent for the fresh water tank (so open this while you have the fresh water tank draining, it will go much faster). The other one I'm not sure about and didn't bother to trace it back.

There are 2 main places you need access to inside for winterizing the 235RKS:

1. Under the bathroom sink (water filter, pump, antifreeze siphon)
2. Under the dinette seat closest to the bed (hot water tank, bypass valves)

I highly recommend using the compressed air method to blow out the lines before adding the antifreeze. I made a tool that screws into the main water line from outside and has a quick disconnect for the air compressor (male ended section of garden hose, hose clamp, 1/4" brass female to female connector, 1/4" air hose coupler). This method makes it alot easier to get out the water filter without making a mess and also makes sure you have 100% antifreeze in the lines during the winter. Last but not least, don't forget to winterize the outside shower!!!!

[SaskCampers]

Winterizing Tips

These are suggestions only please refer to your owner’s manual if you have any questions.

·Disconnect any water sources from RV and empty grey and black tanks.

·Locate fresh water drain and open valve. Open all low point drain valves. Not all RV’s have this option. Once water stops draining out of low pt drain close valve.

·Relieve pressure from water heater before draining. The pressure and temperature relief valve is usually located at the top in the middle.

·Take plug out of water heater to drain. Plastic plug is in Atwood heaters and 7/8” socket will remove the plug. Metal plug with an anode rod is for Suburban water heaters. 1 1/16” socket is needed to remove.
·Get access the back of the water heater. Bypass the water heater. Some have three valves to bypass and others only one. Direction of the valve shows the direction of water flow.
·On three valve water heater: close cold water inlet valve, close hot water outlet valve. Open bypass valve between the two.
·Single valve bypass will be near the bottom by the cold water inlet. Turn valve quarter turn to bypass. There is a check valve at the hot water outlet so that RV antifreeze will not flow back into the water heater.

If you have a water filter canister, open and remove filter. You have options on how to winterize the water filter.

1)Remove canister and install a bypass hose with 2 nipple ends to ensure RV anti-freeze bypasses water filter system. We have the parts available in our Parts department. (Recommended method)
2)Install a bypass plate and gasket into the top of the filter. This will prevent the canister from filling with RV anti-freeze. Water filter plate is available in our Parts Department
3)Put the canister back on without the filter and let RV antifreeze fill the canister and continue through the system. (There still a risk of cracking the canister when the antifreeze expands in the cold)

·Go to your water pump. Some RV’s come with a siphon hose already attached to the pump.

If yours does you will need to open the valve to the siphon hose and close the valve to fresh water tank.

• If you do not have a siphon hose supplied you will need to make one.
• Once you have a siphon hose, disconnect the inlet fitting to the pump and install the winterizing siphon hose.
• Insert open end of siphon hose into the jug of antifreeze.

·Turn on water pump and then open all your taps one by one until the pink to flowing through the taps.
·E.g.: open hot tap on bathroom sink until pink shows, then close hot tap. Now open cold tap until pink shows. Continue on through out the RV doing all taps and toilets.

DO NOT forget about your outside shower!!

A tip from our techs:

Remove shower heads from both the inside and outside showers while winterizing. No chance of forgetting a shower head and having it freeze and crack!

·Turn off water pump.
·Depressurize system by opening up a cold tap
·Pour RV antifreeze down all your sinks and toilets. To make sure no water is left in any p-traps and also to protect your dump gate valves.


SECOND BEST METHOD – Blowing Out the Lines
1.Drain fresh water tank.
2.Drain hot water heater.
3.Dump and flush both black and gray water holding tanks, leave gray water valve open.
4.Screw compressed air adaptor into the fresh water inlet. The adapter is available in our Parts Department.
5.Apply compressed air, keeping the pressure less than 20 PSI.
6.Open each faucet, one valve at a time, allowing the compressed air to blow out the remaining water. Reinstall drain plug.
7.Remove the compressed air source and adapter.
8.Pour a few cups of RV antifreeze down each drain and toilet.
9.You’re done!

[Chris357]

I just can not figure out why this would not work for me.. I bought a 2008 Rockwood Ultra Lite signature this year, and a 10 minute winterize job turned into a 2 hour job. I cant understand why it did not work like its suppose to. Heres a quote from first page of thread: 3) There should be a valve near your water pump; one way goes the the fresh tank and the other to a short hose. Turn the valve to the short hose. This hose will be used to suck the RV anti-freeze into the system. 4) Buy about 3 gallons of pink RV anti-freeze 5) When I tried this it would not suck the antifreeze at all. I even went and put a gallon in thre fresh tank and switched the valve to the down position and it still would not suck the antifreeze in. So after messing around, I disconnected the hose to the pump and only had a smaller diameter hose and had to hold it against the pump to make it suck the antifreeze and it worked! Why would it not take when I had the valve turned on the short hose or to the fresh water tank? I even took it off and blew in it and it was not clogged.