Winterizing

[Thurman]

We usually do not get weather cold enough to consider winterizing, but this season is different. With temps expected to get into the mid-low 20's this week I decided to drain all water from my lines. I have a fitting that goes on where the fresh water supply line connects to the TT and this fitting allows an air chuck to be attached. I connected an air hose then attached the line to my fitting thus putting 20# of pressure on the water system. I then opened each faucet separately in the TT, the kitchen sink, the bath/sink/toilet to allow the air to push the water out. This was done with both the cold and hot low point drains open. This morning I went out just checking the back yard and decided to look in the TT. This is what was hanging from the kitchen faucet. I obviously forgot to open the cold side of the faucet. I'm thinking that the water within the faucet between the valve and open end of the faucet froze pushing out this icicle. Later today it warmed up enough to thaw out the faucet so I went back in and opened the cold faucet valve.

[benchmarks]

Wow...good follow up catch.

[moshe1436]

In SW Florida we usually don’t get temperatures cold enough to worry about winterizing but tonight they are predicting temperatures in the 20’s. I have a 2014 241QBXL Cruise-Lite that was last used with “city water supply” in early November. I have not done anything to it since and wonder if water remains in the tank or if it drains out when you drain the faucets etc before dumping. I’m thinking I should drain the tank but have no idea where the drain(s) are located. Any suggestions are appreciated-thanks!

[marinerjoe]

Originally Posted by moshe1436

I have not done anything to it since and wonder if water remains in the tank or if it drains out when you drain the faucets etc before dumping. I’m thinking I should drain the tank but have no idea where the drain(s) are located. Any suggestions are appreciated-thanks!

The water heater absolutely does NOT drain when you open any low point drains. You have to go in and take out the anode rod to drain the water heater tank.

Blowing air (40 psi max) will clear your lines if you have a compressor. Sucking the pink antifreeze is another option, but first you should bypass the (now drained) water heater and remove your onboard water filter.

Good luck...

[youroo]

Originally Posted by marinerjoe

The water heater absolutely does NOT drain when you open any low point drains. You have to go in and take out the anode rod to drain the water heater tank.

Blowing air (40 psi max) will clear your lines if you have a compressor. Sucking the pink antifreeze is another option, but first you should bypass the (now drained) water heater and remove your onboard water filter.

Good luck...

Sorry but the Water Heater "WILL"Drain by opening the LPDs on Lots of RVs! This is why Members ask how the "White Crud" from the Water Heater gets into their water lines and Fixtures! It is Best to close bypass valves on W/H and then Remove the Drain Plug of Heater! Youroo!!

[marinerjoe]

I'm surprised that the WH will drain without removing the anode plug. I guess that it'll drain down the cold low point drain. But I'm not convinced.

I grabbed this picture of the backside of a typical WH with the bypass valves. IMHO, it won't drain down the hot water side, but it's possible it'll make it's way out the cold side. But a hot water spigot needs to be open so air will flow backwards to help drain the tank.

Not something I want to count on....

[bubbles]

Originally Posted by Thurman

We usually do not get weather cold enough to consider winterizing, but this season is different. With temps expected to get into the mid-low 20's this week I decided to drain all water from my lines. I have a fitting that goes on where the fresh water supply line connects to the TT and this fitting allows an air chuck to be attached. I connected an air hose then attached the line to my fitting thus putting 20# of pressure on the water system. I then opened each faucet separately in the TT, the kitchen sink, the bath/sink/toilet to allow the air to push the water out. This was done with both the cold and hot low point drains open. This morning I went out just checking the back yard and decided to look in the TT. This is what was hanging from the kitchen faucet. I obviously forgot to open the cold side of the faucet. I'm thinking that the water within the faucet between the valve and open end of the faucet froze pushing out this icicle. Later today it warmed up enough to thaw out the faucet so I went back in and opened the cold faucet valve.

I think that because you had the low point drains open most, if not all of the air was exiting out those drains. The low point drains need to be closed when blowing out the water lines so the plumbing system is pressurized to force the residual water out each faucet, toilet etc..

[moshe1436]

Thanks for all the comments and discussion regarding my question about draining a Suburban water heater. After checking the current weather forecast for our area the freeze warning is quite a bit north of us and our temps are expected to only get to down to 39 degrees with a colder wind chill. I've decided it's not worth the effort to drain the WH at this point but after checking (I should have done this first) the manual it says to remove the anode rod to drain the tank.

As a newbie to this RV'ng stuff I'm learning how involved owning a RV can be! Interpreting the acronyms used on this forum is fun but often mind-boggling! Generally I'm able to figure out what most of them are. Which brings me to one of my original comments that this FR Forums site is fantastic and the absolute best forum of the several I've been part of. Everyone is generally considerate to the less informed and that I appreciate. Thanks to all of you and Happy New Year to everyone!

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by moshe1436

.... Interpreting the acronyms used on this forum is fun but often mind-boggling! Generally I'm able to figure out what most of them are....

Take a look at this entire thread.
There will be a test.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...rms-11651.html

[moshe1436]

Originally Posted by moshe1436

In SW Florida we usually don’t get temperatures cold enough to worry about winterizing but tonight they are predicting temperatures in the 20’s. I have a 2014 241QBXL Cruise-Lite that was last used with “city water supply” in early November. I have not done anything to it since and wonder if water remains in the tank or if it drains out when you drain the faucets etc before dumping. I’m thinking I should drain the tank but have no idea where the drain(s) are located. Any suggestions are appreciated-thanks!

We escaped temperatures below 31 this last week but I'm glad I decided to drain the WH and put in a new anode rod. The anode rod was completely gone (as seen in picture) and the crud in the tank was unbelievable. I used the advertised tank cleaner to rinse it out and it took a good 20 - 30 minutes for it to run clear. Some of the gunk was almost the size of a golf ball but managed to come out of the drain.

Unfortunately, the previous owner did little or nothing in terms of maintenance so I'm hoping I'm ahead of it enough to prevent major problems (in a lot of systems).

Thanks for all the help on this site!

[5picker]

Good job!
Looks like the anode was working hard.
Now you understand the importance of regular maintenance.

[moshe1436]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Good job!
Looks like the anode was working hard.
Now you understand the importance of regular maintenance.

You got that right!!!

[MacDR]

Last question and just a thought.. after winterizing and making sure that all tanks are empty.. Should you leave your grey and black water tank valves open or closed for the winter.. Just a thought.

[MacDR]

Meant only Holding Tank valves..

[5picker]

Originally Posted by MacDR

Last question and just a thought.. after winterizing and making sure that all tanks are empty.. Should you leave your grey and black water tank valves open or closed for the winter.. Just a thought.

You'll get differing thoughts on this but I close them. The 'extra' antifreeze that runs through the sink traps stays in the tank(s) and there's no chance some critter will use the pipe/tank(s) as a winter home. Around here, squirrels, chipmunks and mice will get in any thing left open.

[Flybob]

I always leave my dump valve just cracked just in case so that movement will not cause liquid to back up behind the valve and freeze but no critters can get in. I usually place a bucket under the fitting just in case.

[MacDR]

I’ve tried both ways over the years, and will continue with the cracked valve and 5 gallon pail