Winterizing accident - Hot water tank explosion

Della330 · 11-10-2018, 02:00 AM

We finally winterized our Salem LA last night. Hubby and a friend started it before I got there. They had the electric plugged in, pulled the anode rode to drain the hot water heater, then were blowing the system out when there was a LOUD explosion. I was on the door side of the camper and sparks and debris flew out the anode rod opening ... yep, the tank heater switch had been set to 'on' and I could see the red flame inside the empty tank. It exploded loudly again before I could get over there and flip the switch to turn the tank off.

So, what did we just do? Is the hot water tank shot? Maybe just the heating element? Sadly we don't use the camper a lot, but need it to be ready to go quickly when it's time to use it. I fear we'll be unprepared for repairs next summer if I don't ask and figure out what we're dealing with right now.

Can anyone help?

**bikendan** · 11-10-2018, 02:22 AM

Since there was no water in the WH and the heating element was energized, you probably just fried the heating element.
ALWAYS have water in the WH, before turning on the electric side of the WH.

**wmtire** · 11-10-2018, 02:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Della330

We finally winterized our Salem LA last night. Hubby and a friend started it before I got there. They had the electric plugged in, pulled the anode rode to drain the hot water heater, then were blowing the system out when there was a LOUD explosion. I was on the door side of the camper and sparks and debris flew out the anode rod opening ... yep, the tank heater switch had been set to 'on' and I could see the red flame inside the empty tank. It exploded loudly again before I could get over there and flip the switch to turn the tank off.

So, what did we just do? Is the hot water tank shot? Maybe just the heating element? Sadly we don't use the camper a lot, but need it to be ready to go quickly when it's time to use it. I fear we'll be unprepared for repairs next summer if I don't ask and figure out what we're dealing with right now.

Can anyone help?

Hate to hear this Della. Since you mentioned you have an anode rod, that would identify your water heater as a Suburban brand.

Replacing the electric heating element is not that complicated, and is most likely all you need to do.

Here is one explanation of the process:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...d-r-50292.html

Lukegsdaddy · 11-10-2018, 06:01 AM

If you boondock a lot you will need to replace heating element. If you use propane you wont need to replace element.

I asked this question to the service manager where we bought our and that was his response.

**Bama Rambler** · 11-10-2018, 12:30 PM

As mentioned above, hopefully all you did was burned out the electric element.
I'd pull it and look at it first.

You can buy 120 volt, 1400 or 1500 watt elements at local big box stores.

JohnD10 · 11-10-2018, 12:52 PM

If it was an "explosion", then it would be worth investigating the whole water heater as there may be more going on, or possibly more damage to the water heater than the eye can see.

cub22908 · 11-10-2018, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wmtire

Hate to hear this Della. Since you mentioned you have an anode rod, that would identify your water heater as a Suburban brand.

Replacing the electric heating element is not that complicated, and is most likely all you need to do.

Here is one explanation of the process:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...d-r-50292.html

I know in the link to replacing the heat element it says to unplug shore power but I still don't understand why they leave the power switch on. Doesn't sound like a good idea to me! Might want to buy two elements if you are going to do it that way

**KyDan** · 11-10-2018, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cub22908

I know in the link to replacing the heat element it says to unplug shore power but I still don't understand why they leave the power switch on. Doesn't sound like a good idea to me! Might want to buy two elements if you are going to do it that way

It actually says SHUT OFF THE LP GAS AT THE TANKS AND UNPLUG THE TRAILER FROM
SHORE POWER BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY OF THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURES.
The switch is on in the photos because it's stuck on. Unplugging the trailer from shore power eliminates any possibility of having a dangerous voltage at the heating element. When the OPs element "exploded" it was in fact melting and arcing due to the fact it was still energized when they drained the tank.

It's also possible the fusable link is burned out. See the last photo of the element replacement to see where the fusable link is located.

campnqueen · 11-10-2018, 01:34 PM

CONGRATULATIONS!

Your hubby has just borght you a new water heater! And learned a valuable lesson.

My hubby turns on the water heater on all the time before checking to see if it has water in it. I have started puling the fuse and flipping the breaker. Sorry for your bad luck. We all have done something stupid.

**KyDan** · 11-10-2018, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by campnqueen

CONGRATULATIONS!

Your hubby has just borght you a new water heater! And learned a valuable lesson.

AS mentioned several times in the discussion this water heater very likely has only minor damage.
A burned out heating element- about $10 at Lowes and -possibly- a burned out fusable link/thermostat- $30 range on Ebay.

**bikendan** · 11-10-2018, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lukegsdaddy

If you boondock a lot you will need to replace heating element.

If you boondock a lot, like us, the electric side is useless. The element is needed if you DON'T boondock because you have electric hookups.

dnicoll · 11-10-2018, 01:51 PM

Welcome to the forum. You will find a lot of help from the members. So sorry to hear about this accident. Fortunately, it sounds like it may not be too serious of a problem ? I have never, touch wood, had this issue so I can’t help any in that department!

I always turn the hot water Tank source off (propane & electric) well in advance of starting to winterize. At least it gives the water a chance to cool off a little before I have to pull the drain plug! Nothing worse than having super hot water draining across my hands or splashing up on my legs.

campnqueen · 11-10-2018, 01:51 PM

Keep us posted on the assesment of the damage and the cost to repair.

tahoe1840 · 11-10-2018, 02:06 PM

You might get lucky. When you pull the old element inspect it to see if it is all there. Meaning it should be intact as a new one would be. If not then you might have a piece of the element in the bottom of your water heater which could then compromise something else in your overall system. if you can get behind a panel to look at the exterior of the water heater to see if there are any holes or bulging it would be recommended. if nothing is visible and you dare, put water back into the water heater to see if it leaks. Good luck.

JohnD10 · 11-10-2018, 02:35 PM

I don't know...

But the word "explosion" along with the phrase "sparks and debris flew out the anode rod opening" sure sounds like there could be more going on than just a ruined heating element.

Hope that is not the case...

jkoenig24 · 11-10-2018, 02:43 PM

You said the MAGiC word; "EXPLOSION". Get an endoscope ($10 ~ $20 online; it will connect to a smartphone or tablet). The endoscope wire is VERY flexible; use a stiffer wire (like a coat hanger) to be able to "steer" the camera where you need it to go so a THOROUGH interior examination can be done. If the tank has NOT been damaged, you shouldn't have to replace it. While you're at it, get several gallons of white vinegar(cheap at any warehouse club) and use it to neutralize all the crud build up that there will be in an old tank. RVGeeks have a GREAT video showing the vinegar cleaning trick.

5picker · 11-10-2018, 02:45 PM

I agree the element 'blew out'.
I would also caution as someone else mentioned, to be sure nothing is in the bottom of the tank.

If you can't successfully see in the anode hole, get one of those inexpensive endoscopic cameras off the 'net and have a good look inside the tank.

It would be cheap insurance moving forward.

Thurman · 11-10-2018, 03:28 PM

Re: "Something in the bottom of the tank". IF the heating element burned out due to no water in the tank and the element "blew up" and parts of the element may still be in the tank--that, in itself, should not be a problem. During the years I had a "Household HandyMan" business I replaced hundreds of electrical heating elements in household water heaters. Some of the lower elements would actually "blow up" in the tank full of water. These would difficult to remove as the element would be distorted in shape. Many times I would advise the homeowner of this situation and recommend that I just hack saw the element in two leaving part of the element in the tank. NOT one complaint after getting the water heater (note-NOT HOT water heater) up and running again. On these Suburban RV tanks the anode rod is usually located so that the owner/homeowner can actually use a flashlight to see into the water heater tank when the heating element and anode rod are removed. The OP may be able to do this and see the bottom of the tank and IF there is anything in it. When I went to a plumbing school the instructor actually showed us what would happen to a heating element that was not immersed in water. With the heating element screwed into a fitting on a wooden stand he energized the element. It took maybe 30 seconds for the element to start swelling about mid-point of it's length then the element did explode with sparks flying all over the place. That is likely what the OP stated she saw when she heard the "explosion" noise.

jimmoore13 · 11-10-2018, 05:18 PM

I skimmed others' answers, so if I'm repeating, sorry.

I saw no mention of thoroughly flushing out the tank. Residue from the damaged electric element will be plentiful. Something like this will do the job.

You may discover that some of the residue won't flush out easily, so a shop-vac with a flexible hose extender that fits through the anode/plug hole will help. That's just an illustration. A 24" length of clear plastic hose and some Gorilla tape to attach it to the vacuum hose should do the job. The residue shouldn't cause any real problems, but you'll probably feel better if you get most of it out of there.

As a precaution, you might also use a dental mirror and a flashlight to inspect the interior of the hot water heater. It should be fine, but just in case. What you witnessed was the element melting and arcing. 110 Volts can't arc over long distances, so it should not have arced to the walls of the heater tank. And the small amount of water remaining in the bottom of the heater should have quenched any molten material dropping to the bottom of the tank. Should being the operative word.

If you use the electric heating element, replace it. If not - if you always use propane to heat the water - you could hacksaw off the damaged element and use the remaining plug to replug the hole in the water heater. In that case, do NOT attach the electrical wires to the element base. Wire-nut the ends and then add electrical tape to secure them. This leaves open the option of installing a new element in the future.

Finally, pressure test the hot water heater before relying on it. Connect to city water - with your handy pressure reducing fitting included to protect the rest of the RV plumbing - and open the hot water valve on a sink to ensure the tank is full. Don't forget to reset the bypass valves to summer operation mode if you winterized. Once the tank is full...no more spitting from the hot water faucet...inspect. Then wait an hour and inspect. Then wait 24 hours and inspect. No leaks? Wonderful. Re-winterize. Lesson learned. Leaks? Not so wonderful. I don't need to explain what comes next.

Good luck.

P.S. Depending on the state of the element you are trying to remove, you may discover that it has turned into a big, molten knob that won't come out of the hole. That would be VERY unusual, but not unimaginable. If that happens, don't panic and damage something attempting to get the malformed heating element rod out of the tank. Depending on the circumstances, consider cutting the melted end of the element off the fitting/wire connection with a hack saw or reciprocal saw. What remains in the tank will be an inert lump of material that has always been in the tank. Again, flush out what you can, but that big lump should cause you no problems as far as water quality or heater performance. Again, "should" being the operative word.

JohnD10 · 11-10-2018, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmoore13

P.S. Depending on the state of the element you are trying to remove, you may discover that it has turned into a big, molten knob that won't come out of the hole. That would be VERY unusual, but not unimaginable. If that happens, don't panic and damage something attempting to get the malformed heating element rod out of the tank. Depending on the circumstances, consider cutting the melted end of the element off the fitting/wire connection with a hack saw or reciprocal saw. What remains in the tank will be an inert lump of material that has always been in the tank. Again, flush out what you can, but that big lump should cause you no problems as far as water quality or heater performance. Again, "should" being the operative word.

It would also be a good idea to make sure that "big lump" does not make contact with the new heating element.

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