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Old 10-28-2014, 06:05 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by KDHfan View Post
Thanks guys!

I have no onboard filter... But my last one did. The place I had it winterized didn't remove it during the winter, which I found odd.

Also... My camper is in a pole building year round and is covered on all sides except the front... No sun, rain or snow on it, so I was thinking I didn't need to cover the tires. Any differing opinions?


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You do not have to cover your tires but what is the ground that they sit on made of? If it's dirt or gravel make sure that you put some boards under them. Best to use 2x8 pressure treated wood, but this is just my opinion. Depending on the size of tire you might get by with 2x6 but you just want to make sure the tires don't hang over the sides.....
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Old 10-28-2014, 06:51 AM   #12
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Inflate tires AT LEAST to the max if not 10 lbs more. (That's my routine). It leaves less contact on the ground, and helps insure your tires have plenty of air come spring.
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Old 10-28-2014, 06:57 AM   #13
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Here is a good article on winterizing from Good Sam Camping Blog: WINTERIZING YOUR RV — A step-by-step time-proven system to get the job done right! | Good Sam Camping Blog.

It includes items like removing perishable and freezable items, cleaning the refrigerator, and removing LCD TV sets.
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Old 10-28-2014, 07:53 AM   #14
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I would place the W/H in bypass and Drain it first,Then open the Low point drains. This prevents (White/Crap) from going Downstream! If you doubt what I say look at the area when you drain your W/H! Youroo!!
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Old 10-30-2014, 08:53 AM   #15
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For motorhome owners add; engage your cabin recirculation option, to close the duct off from outside air, thus limiting access from that entry point into the dash area.
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Old 10-30-2014, 09:16 AM   #16
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very good list

I would suggest leaving your low point drain caps off for most of the process. Water will continue to drip out for a while. When blowing out the lines, water needs to go out these drains. I leave my low point caps off to the time that I see RV antifreeze coming out of them and then put the caps on.


Also, disconnect the shower hose from the faucet and not just the shower head. Water will/may remain in the hose. If you have an outside hose, remove it and get all water out of it. (open valves on faucets after hoses have been removed, as water will drain back into top of faucet while taking hose off)

When I am done completely, I remove the plastic screen bowl from the water pump and shake out any liquid as it may also hold water and bust.

(the bowls are cheap and easy to replace when the frozen water cracks them, but if you have had it happen to you once, you never want to have to fix it again )
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Old 10-30-2014, 10:01 AM   #17
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"I remove the plastic screen bowl from the water pump and shake out any liquid as it may also hold water and bust."

I don't know what you mean by this...are you talking about the glass water filter bowl?
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Old 10-30-2014, 10:23 AM   #18
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"I remove the plastic screen bowl from the water pump and shake out any liquid as it may also hold water and bust."

I don't know what you mean by this...are you talking about the glass water filter bowl?

On the water pump there is a plastic clear bowl that has a metal screen in it. If fresh water is left in there (I by-pass the water pump when adding RV anti-freeze to my unit) and freezes, it will/may cause the the plastic bowl to crack.
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