Winterizing Flagstaff - Hot Water Lines

[TheHootman]

I have a Flagstaff 26' travel trailer. This is the second year in winterizing it and I want to make sure not to screw it up.
1) I drained the water tank and all the waste tanks
2) I turned all 4 valves that by pass the hot water heater
3) Drained the hot water heater by pulling the plug
4) I put the hose the the RV fluid in take and turned on hot and cold water on all faucets and the toilet and pour some in the drains.

Issue, when I ran the hot water heater, no RV fluid came out, nor clean water. Was RV fluid suppose to come out? I drained the hot water heater after I did the RV fluid in the water lines and there wasn't any RV fluid in the hot water heater, so I know it did the bipass right. But I thought the water lines would draw the RV fluid.

What did I do wrong? Or was that correct? As I said, I turned all four valves by the water in take and hot water heater. I assume in the spring I turn those four back the other way and flush with water and clean water lines.

I just don't want to have the hot water lines burst if I did something wrong.

Thank you! Jim Dearborn, MI

[Md Jeff]

If you shut the valves to the water heater then you wouldn't have any flow; I have a valve on the hot side and cold side of the WH and then a bypass valve, not sure why yours has 4....if you opened your bypass you would have the water coming out the faucets instead....did you run your water pump to pull in the AF?

[TheHootman]

Yes, the water pump took in the AF into the cold lines, but when I turned on the hot, nothing came out. There was 2 valves on the hot water side, and two by the water filter, I assume one was to draw the AF fluid rather than from the water tank.

[Md Jeff]

Originally Posted by TheHootman

Yes, the water pump took in the AF into the cold lines, but when I turned on the hot, nothing came out. There was 2 valves on the hot water side, and two by the water filter, I assume one was to draw the AF fluid rather than from the water tank.

Gotcha.... shut off valves to heater and open bypass between the two......if it comes out the cold and you have the bypass open, it would have to come out the hot side as well, not sure what you have going on

[iowaborn]

I’ve got the same scenario on my 25DS; nothing coming out the hot line when pumping AF. I need to go back and re-think the 4-valve(s) winterizing positioning. Sure would have been nice if some documentation had been provided by FR.

[TheHootman]

I stopped by a RV Dealer who sells Flagstaff and he explained what I did wrong. On the hot water side there are three valves. Two valves need to be closed that is the hot and cold water in and out of the hot water tank. What I forgot to do is open valve that connects those two lines to by pass the hot water heater. Once I opened that valve the RV fluid flowed out of the hot water lines. I need to write this down for next time.

[donanddona]

I have all ways used LP air and blow out everything. Did you ever think to pump AF and as the last step just remove the drain plug and let the water heater drain dry?

[3npungo]

There are two valves coming out of the plumbing from the hot water tank. One on the cold line. The other is below a T of the hot and cold water. I am new at this and really do not understand how this would bypass the hot water tank. Any pros that can help explain this to me? Thanks.

[donanddona]

When you close the cold and hot water valves, you have isolated the water heater. Opening the bypass will allow the supplied water (fresh water pump or city water connection) to flush. This will allow both hot and cold water to pass anitfreeze or to allow the air from the same connection (regulated to 30-40psi) to push through the lines. Don't forget to remove the drain plug from the water heater and secure both elect switch if supplied and propane if a valve is supplied.