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Old 09-18-2015, 01:39 PM   #21
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After all the draining, blowing out and water filter removal don't forget to remove the small clear plastic strainer bowl that's attached to the pump. Ask me how I know that!

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Old 09-18-2015, 01:52 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Mikehend View Post
For me (in central Michigan) I've always used compressed air for over 30 years. Blow out the lines, antifreeze in P traps and tanks.

The ONLY time I had a problem was last year, when I forgot to depress the foot pedal on the toilet...left water in the valve and it froze/cracked. (Of course that would have been a problem whether using air or antifreeze either one!)
Exactly what happened to me too. A simple oversight ended up costing me $60 and an entire afternoon (on the day before the first trip of the season) driving all over heck's half-acre to find one (several dealers I called either lied that they had one or couldn't look up the part number to save their lives).

Going to use the pink stuff as the final step from now on (and create a checklist - CRS is starting to become a factor).

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Old 09-18-2015, 02:41 PM   #23
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Locate the water pump and add a winterizing kit to the incoming hose. I just recently did this to mine. All you need is a three way valve, three pipe clamps and a piece of hose. For the cost of RV antifreeze compared to the cost or repairing a broken pipe behind a wall or shower it's just not worth the risk. My father in-law had a pipe break at a joint that cost a lot to repair the water damage alone. Don't risk it. I'd rather be safe with no worries that have the trouble or worries.
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Old 09-18-2015, 03:16 PM   #24
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Wow, didn't realize this would turn into multiple pages so quick! In all honesty I have not tried to get to the pump yet, I've just read about other folks' attempts and wondered if it was worth the effort. I'm in central IL, hot summers and cold winters. We routinely get below freezing for extended periods of time (weeks) during the cold stretches of winter, and sometimes a few days below zero at a time.
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Old 09-18-2015, 03:35 PM   #25
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I blow out the lines, drain the water heater and pink in the drains and toilet. Never had a problem with our MH (no water heater bypass). Last winter did this to TT. It has no pink stuff port and even though the water heater has a bypass, you have to take out the cook stove to get to it or remove a panel AND heat duct then crawl into the cabinet to get to it!
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Old 09-18-2015, 03:39 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by bbrowncods View Post
You are good with air. I would leave the faucet valves open as well. Experiment by taking a glass of water and freeze it. The glass will not break. As long as there is air for the water to expand into as it freezes no harm is done. Nothing wrong with the ice, it is the lack of airspace to expand into that does the damage.
When I was growing up my parents had a house built in the 1800's. When they bought it we noticed that the pipes were not insulated. We were told to just let the water drip, or when it got into the "teens" shut the water off and leave all the valves open. There was no way to keep the pipes from freezing. The first winter we ended up replumbing the entire house because we forgot the advice we were given. Worked like a charm when we did it. Lived in that house 20 years and although the pipes would freeze there would be no damage.

Or use the Pink!
You shared my thoughts exactly. I'm in Washington State, and have use compressed air for the last 15 years in my trailer, then 40 classes A and now my Wildcat 32RL 5 the wheel. Have not used pink in all those years.

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Old 09-18-2015, 03:46 PM   #27
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In north Louisiana blowing the lines out works for me but I take several other precautions. Drain wh, filter, low point drains and everything I can including outside shower hose. Then I turn on tank heater switch (they activate in the 40s) and set furnace as low as it goes. Usually go through 2 propane tanks over a winter but no damage in 10 years. PTL
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Old 09-18-2015, 04:18 PM   #28
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Air can be a problem.

One year I used compressed air and had a leak in a very bad spot which took lots of time and problems gaining access. I always use the pink now. The air will blow by low sections of plumbing and the water settles back into that spot. I think the layout of your plumbing is the issue.
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Old 09-18-2015, 04:50 PM   #29
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I live in Newfoundland so I know about cold. I only use compressed air and like the other posts here I blow everything out completely, remove the WH anode rod, leave the faucets open and add antifreeze to the traps. I also remove my water pump (it's under the kid's bunk so it's easy to access) and store it in the basement until needed. Just remember to re-install it before you hook up the city water in the spring (ask me how I know)
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Old 09-18-2015, 04:54 PM   #30
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In NH I have always blown with air...then ran pink in and blown a second time. When just blowing there will always be a low spot that the vapor collects in. Many years ago I just used pink and left it in there. The system tasted like crap for the season. Since then I blow it out after.

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winter, winterize

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