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Old 09-22-2015, 09:07 AM   #61
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The times I did it successfully, I did use the CW water hose adapter (with an air quick-connect on the other end).
  • First, dial down your air compressor to no more than 50 psi - don't want to blow anything out.
  • Drain the system as much as you can by opening the low point drains (including the fresh water drain) and all taps, including the outdoor shower Opening the WH relief valve will help the WH drain faster. Good time now to inspect the anode rod if you have a Suburban.
  • Run the pump to push the water out of it and also ensure you've pulled all water possible from the FW tank and the line from it to the pump. Don't worry about running it dry - they're made to take that for a few minutes while they prime.
  • Now close everything, hook up the compressor to the city water port and pressurize the system.
  • Starting with the tap nearest the pump, open the valves and let run until you're getting nothing more than mist out of it. Might spit a bit so have a towel.
  • If your air tank is small (like mine) and you run out of air, close the tap and wait for it to refill.
  • Once 'nothing but air', move to the next.
  • Don't forget the outdoor shower and the toilet.

The one time I had a failure with this method I forgot the toilet and the valve cracked. It was a new trailer and I didn't realize that with a foot-operated valve, water stays above the valve (was not so when I had a TT with a hand-operated flush valve).

If you're not going to add antifreeze to the supply side, I think you're done (but you need to add a few cups to the P-traps at the sink and shower). Also, if you aren't adding antifreeze in the supply side there's no need to set the winterize position on the WH - just open everything up again like in step 2.
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Old 09-22-2015, 09:24 AM   #62
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Have no idea what the CW water hose adapter cost,,, I made my own,,, just need some Hose - Fittings - Clamps,,, I put a gas valve in mine so I could shutoff the air if I want !!! DO NOT FORGET THE FILTER CANISTER !!!
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Old 09-22-2015, 09:39 AM   #63
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I have a Camco brass air fitting adapter on the way from Amazon... called a "blow out plug" and cost $7 and change.

The cheaper version, about a dollar less, have the "air" side set up as a tire valve stem instead of a quick-connect to an air hose.
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Old 09-22-2015, 09:53 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SimchaSabre View Post
I always use anti-freeze. Don't forget to press the city water check valve to make sure yo replace the water in that line.

Also...as stated here several places I always made sure in the past that I let enough pink through the faucets to fill the traps...

But.... I soon discover that our Sabre does not have conventional P-traps. Instead they used a waterless check valve sort of thing that does not retain any water or antifreeze.
I thought more and more were not using the P-Traps and going this way. This is a warning on my rig about mechanical draining cleaning devices damaging the system. I am not sure if the drains need pink stuff.... no harm I guess in putting it in though right?
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Old 09-22-2015, 11:56 AM   #65
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I've never seen or had experience with P-trap-less drains so can't comment there but the injunction against mechanical drain cleaning is because the sink waste line plastic used is so thin you'd be likely to perforate it. Except for the toilet its not standard ABS - for what reason I don't know (weight? flexibility?).
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:08 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by DaveSchwartz View Post
I've never seen or had experience with P-trap-less drains so can't comment there but the injunction against mechanical drain cleaning is because the sink waste line plastic used is so thin you'd be likely to perforate it. Except for the toilet its not standard ABS - for what reason I don't know (weight? flexibility?).

COST !!!
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:18 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by scottydl View Post
I have a Camco brass air fitting adapter on the way from Amazon... called a "blow out plug" and cost $7 and change.

The cheaper version, about a dollar less, have the "air" side set up as a tire valve stem instead of a quick-connect to an air hose.
Very Interesting,,, did not know they made a fitting like that !!!
Hope it fits your compressor hose !!!
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:23 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by DaveSchwartz View Post
I've never seen or had experience with P-trap-less drains so can't comment there but the injunction against mechanical drain cleaning is because the sink waste line plastic used is so thin you'd be likely to perforate it. Except for the toilet its not standard ABS - for what reason I don't know (weight? flexibility?).
The traps and trap arms are made of polypropylene which is very difficult to damage. You should never run a snake through a sink trap -- the trap should be removed and the line snaked from the open pipe. However, if you did run a cable through a trap, the polypropylene trap would most likely survive where a PVC or ABS trap might not.

Polypropylene traps are cheaper than ABS and PVC traps, but they are better in many aspects.

Bruce
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:37 AM   #69
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COST !!!
"every penny is sacred"
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