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Old 12-07-2016, 09:20 PM   #21
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Old 12-08-2016, 07:48 AM   #22
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Finally, I was able to winterize the camper.

It turns out blue tubing with the two valves is part of the winterizing process. If they are closed the antifreeze does not draw in, so they have to be open. I remain suspicious.

The three HWH bypass valves are right where they should be, behind the HWH. Unfortunately you need to be a contortionist with three double-jointed 40" arms to get to them.
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Old 12-08-2016, 09:06 AM   #23
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I am going to winterize my TT in about an hour for the first time.
I am going to do the following in the following order:
1. Remove HWH anode and drain tank using the relief valve. Replace anode.
2. Remove and drain inline water filter and replace canister cover with no filter (will replace with new next spring).
3.Open grey and black tank drain valves.
4. Connect air fitting with regulator to "city water" connection. Regulate pressure to 25-30 psi.
5. Open all hot and cold water faucets and drain until air flow is established. Will include shower and toilet.
6. Run water pump for approx. 30 seconds
7. Pour RV antifreeze into all traps and into black tank (drain valve now
closed). Also pour some onto toilet seal valve in bottom of bowl.

Question: A "bypass" for HWH? Using this "air" method, is that needed? ( I am guessing air pressure will fill empty tank and continue out to flush hot water lines)
Anyone see a fault in this process? If so please opine. I surely do not want to damage any of the plumbing fixtures in my new TT.
Thanks, RMc
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Old 12-08-2016, 09:20 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swbouton View Post
Finally, I was able to winterize the camper.

It turns out blue tubing with the two valves is part of the winterizing process. If they are closed the antifreeze does not draw in, so they have to be open. I remain suspicious.

The three HWH bypass valves are right where they should be, behind the HWH. Unfortunately you need to be a contortionist with three double-jointed 40" arms to get to them.
Yes they have to be open because the blue hose was installed to eliminate the OEM water filter that was originally in that place.

Not only do they need to be open for winterization but they will need to be open for normal use too. The filter was originally plumbed into the main supply line for your entire rig so if you would close those valves, no water or antifreeze will flow throughout.

I'm not sure if those two valves were originally plumbed in for servicing the filter or not but now that the filter is removed, they should simply remain open all the time. There is no useful reason to close them now that the filter is gone.
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Old 12-08-2016, 11:14 AM   #25
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Wheels. There are alot of comments on this.If you bypass the WH and your pump has the anti freeze adapter in it you want to use that to get the anti freeze in all the lines. Put the hose in the bottle turn on pump have someone turn on closest faucet (cold then hot) do this to all including shower. Air is not used with this method. No pump adapter use the air. As far as the bypass you need to locate back of WH. If there are 3 vales you can turn you have one. No valves no bypass. I don't think you have to pour it in the drains you did that when you opened the faucets. I know confused me too. Keep watch those videos it's the easy way to learn.
Sorry for the babble
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Old 12-08-2016, 12:33 PM   #26
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I just completed my winterization as per the list I posted earlier. Once I found 110 power,I used compressed air to blow out all lines (hot and cold at each spigot and shower). I made a quick run to the nearest spigot upon opening the air flow. I was by myself and I'm sure over pressurization did not happen. But if it did, I know where to find good help to fix that problem. Got a new and cute little air compressor out of the deal as well!

I drained the water heater tank, and yes relieve the pressure before pulling the anode. You will become a honorary inductee to the nearest wet t-shirt contest, as I found out.
I ran the water pump for a bit and put the anti freeze in the traps and the black tank. I always thought a trap was a non pressurized fitting and would not freeze if the water inside expanded upon freezing, but a friend of mine with an RV in Alaska stated otherwise and I guess traps are vulnerable to freezing.
The only thing that was odd was the water filter canister refilled twice during the process. I guess water remained in a few lines? I just made sure it was empty upon leaving the TT.
I'm calling it winterized. Bring on the freeze!!
RMc
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