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Old 10-13-2015, 10:12 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Falcon72 View Post
WFD - the concerns you are having now is exactly why I posted. I am thinking though most RVs are setup this way so either the water in that line drains back to the tank or like Happy Vibe said if you run the pump for a little bit with the fresh tank empty it will pull any water out of that suction line and push it forward.
Falcon....I can only assume that it empties out back to the tank since I have never winterized it and never put antifreeze in my fresh tank and haven't had a problem in 4 years...too late for me to run pump dry before adding antifreeze as I have already winterized...short of starting over, and my thought is since I have not had a problem in 4 yrs, I should be ok.
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Old 10-13-2015, 10:14 PM   #12
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I think the OP is more concerned about what happens to any water sitting in the line between the freshwater tank and the pump. My setup is like yours...turn the valve and it pulls from the antifreeze jug. I have never concerned myself with any water sitting in the line from the fresh tank and the pump, and now this post has me concerned. I have never had a problem though, so I am thinking the line from the pump to the tank just drains itself back to the tank??? Unless the low point drain takes care of that?

I think I see what you're saying. I have drained my fresh water tank with the low point drains so that the inlet to the pump is dry. I don't have any water in the inlet, so no concern about freezing. What I did have a concern with was getting antifreeze into the fresh water tank because the way mine is set up, it is impossible to totally drain it. To solve that issue, I have left the valve open to the antifreeze suction hose and will flush that next spring before turning the valve back to the fresh water tank.



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Old 10-13-2015, 10:15 PM   #13
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I have a 2016 Class-C by Coachmen. Our 2008 Freelander had what I thought was a great set-up from the factory with suction or fill tank or city water selected in a "water box) and three valve handles.
The 2016 now requires me to empty my basement storage and after climbing in I have to remove a wood panel that is 5' long then try amd move multiple electric cables to get to see the water pump.
The FR instructions wants me to disconnect the inlet side of the water pump and then make a suction line to suck antifreeze into some of the water lines.
I know I could install a special valve but I still am concerned about having many feet of water line that is not protected.
Here is what you system seems to be. Note I believe there is a check valve between the pump and the line that goes from the city water inlet to the various sinks etc.

My concern is that line A & B which are maybe 8' long will have no antifreeze protection. Also Line C at about 4' has no antifreeze protection. I really don't want to have to somehow get antifreeze into the Fresh Water tank. This isn't mentioned in the instructions from FR.

I have the same setup in my TT. It is line "B" I am most concerned with but I think I have two possible solutions in the post above. I am certain on my TT that line "A" drains into the fresh tank and holds no water once the tank is drained. Line "C" is a concern but I saw a procedure online that said you should remove the small screen on the inlet of your city water connection and push in the check valve that is right at the connection point. This lets the antifreeze flow backwards and out this line. I don't know if that is true of FR's but I will check before I start the process. If it is not then I will need to blow this line out with air before adding antifreeze. If you blow the system out 1st from this port then you would not have to worry about it since this line would be empty. I was just hoping not to need to worry about blowing the system out.
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Old 10-13-2015, 10:20 PM   #14
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Thank you all for all the ideas and discussion. I think I have some good ideas and feel good now about winterizing. I hope this thread helps someone else too! I am a 1st time RV'r this year so its all new. My wife and I went to a show in January (Indoor) to look around and came home after ordering one... it has been fun and we look forward to many more years of camping.
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Old 10-13-2015, 10:24 PM   #15
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I've been doing it for a couple of years and it is a continuous and (mostly ) enjoyable experience. This forum and the great people on it were a large part in my decision to buy Forest River and I've never regretted it. The help that I've gotten here has been immeasurable. Enjoy!


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Old 10-13-2015, 10:42 PM   #16
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I have the same setup in my TT. It is line "B" I am most concerned with but I think I have two possible solutions in the post above. I am certain on my TT that line "A" drains into the fresh tank and holds no water once the tank is drained. Line "C" is a concern but I saw a procedure online that said you should remove the small screen on the inlet of your city water connection and push in the check valve that is right at the connection point. This lets the antifreeze flow backwards and out this line. I don't know if that is true of FR's but I will check before I start the process. If it is not then I will need to blow this line out with air before adding antifreeze. If you blow the system out 1st from this port then you would not have to worry about it since this line would be empty. I was just hoping not to need to worry about blowing the system out.
Falcon...I can confirm that removing the screen and depressing the tab indeed causes antifreeze to flow back...just stand off to the side, cause it comes back with pressure, and if you are standing in front of it you will get hit! Don't ask me how I know this!!!!
I do blow out all my lines prior to winterizing, so my only concern is the line from the fresh water tank to the pump.
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Old 10-14-2015, 09:36 AM   #17
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I have the same setup in my TT. It is line "B" I am most concerned with but I think I have two possible solutions in the post above. I am certain on my TT that line "A" drains into the fresh tank and holds no water once the tank is drained. Line "C" is a concern but I saw a procedure online that said you should remove the small screen on the inlet of your city water connection and push in the check valve that is right at the connection point. This lets the antifreeze flow backwards and out this line. I don't know if that is true of FR's but I will check before I start the process. If it is not then I will need to blow this line out with air before adding antifreeze. If you blow the system out 1st from this port then you would not have to worry about it since this line would be empty. I was just hoping not to need to worry about blowing the system out.
Well I see a couple of potential problems.
1. If you only blow out Line A you have to hope / assume there are no low points between the hose connection and entry to the holding tank.
2. You also have to hope / assume the drain from the FW tank to the pump has the pump at the lowest point in that line.

I have read some posts (don't remember where) that someone discovered his factory line from FW tank to pump was high enough on the FW tank to leave 9 gal of water in the tank. If an RV company thinks that is a good way to run water lines I'm not sure if I can trust that the water pump is a low point.
In my coach I think the pump and the FW tank both sit on the same floor level, so unless the water line if fixed to the floow there will almost certainly be a low point in that line that can't be either sucked dry or blown out.
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Old 10-14-2015, 06:47 PM   #18
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Happy Vibe - I like this approach. If the pump will pull fluid out of a jug then it should pull any water out of the suction line if you let it run for a few seconds.... just have to be careful not to run it too long dry... I am sure the pump is not designed to run dry for very long.

I will think about this approach and see if I am comfortable with it. I don't like the idea of cutting the crimp ring off just to blow the line back to the tank.
I just had to remove the crimp clamp and suction hose in my setup to install the winterizing kit.. Didn't have to cut anything, the clamp is reusable.
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Old 10-14-2015, 09:10 PM   #19
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I had drained my fresh water tank last week a few days prior to winterizing, and left the drain open a couple days. After blowing out my lines and doing the winterization process, I reopened the fresh water drain today and was surprised to see about a half gal or so of water drain out. I can only assume that by blowing out the lines, one of those lines drained back to the fresh water tank...
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Old 11-04-2015, 08:43 AM   #20
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not to hijack, but another question I have about winterizing is this, after you drain the holding tanks (black and grey), when you run the faucets putting antifreeze in until they run pink, doesnt that put water back in the tanks??
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