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Old 11-04-2015, 09:09 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Carmen View Post
not to hijack, but another question I have about winterizing is this, after you drain the holding tanks (black and grey), when you run the faucets putting antifreeze in until they run pink, doesnt that put water back in the tanks??
not so much if you leave the drains open to the tanks .
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Old 11-04-2015, 09:13 AM   #22
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This issue with water in your lines is not so much the freezing is the expansion when it freezes. A little water in your tanks freezing is not going to hurt the tank because there is room for expansion. In actuality you will never get all the liquids out of holding tanks by dumping them anyways.


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Old 11-04-2015, 09:19 AM   #23
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Need help winterizing

I am a new travel trailer owner. I have a 2014 Surveyor Sport 240 RBS. I have been viewing videos online on how to winterize but am confused about the bypassing of the water tank. I think this is what I am supposed to do:

1. Open relief valve on hot water heater and drain the hot water heater.
2. Find low point valve and open to drain
3. Find the water tank and close the valve; insert tube into antifreeze
4. Turn water pump on and circulate antifreeze in all water lines

Is this right? Where would I find the water tank with the bypass line???
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Old 11-04-2015, 09:31 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carmen View Post
not to hijack, but another question I have about winterizing is this, after you drain the holding tanks (black and grey), when you run the faucets putting antifreeze in until they run pink, doesnt that put water back in the tanks??
Water in the grey and black tanks isn't really a concern because if it freezes and expands, there's not much that be damaged. (But you do want to empty all holding tanks and also flush out the black tank before you start winterizing.)

When you flush the lines, water will go into them but also a little antifreeze and, then, even more pure antifreeze when you dump some into the drains so it's never pure water down there. (When I'm done winterizing, I'll dump any remaining antifreeze into the tanks to dilute any water in them.)

Good question!!
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Old 11-04-2015, 09:39 AM   #25
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Following FR instructions on my 2016 Coachmen 23QB I used air to blow out the lines. After thinking about the various probable water line connections I have to wonder about the line from the holding tank to the pump. No way to blow it out so if it freezes am I still at fault for following the service instructions in the provided owners manual?
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Old 11-04-2015, 01:10 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHSPack14 View Post
I am a new travel trailer owner. I have a 2014 Surveyor Sport 240 RBS. I have been viewing videos online on how to winterize but am confused about the bypassing of the water tank. I think this is what I am supposed to do:

1. Open relief valve on hot water heater and drain the hot water heater.
2. Find low point valve and open to drain
3. Find the water tank and close the valve; insert tube into antifreeze
4. Turn water pump on and circulate antifreeze in all water lines

Is this right? Where would I find the water tank with the bypass line???
There are two bypasses you need to handle, using the pink antifreeze method (versus the compressed air method, in which you just blow the water out of all the lines after draining the system).

One bypass is the hot water heater/tank. There will be valves to accomplish that, usually mounted on the backside of the hot water tank. Many rigs have accessibility to those valves under the kitchen sink.

The other bypass is the fresh water tank itself, unless you are going to fill that tank with gallons and gallons of antifreeze and then pump it through the system... which is what many manuals recommend, but is the most inefficient and expensive method. So, you "bypass" the fresh water tank by adding a kit to your water pump that allows the antifreeze to be sucked directly from the jug, without drawing anything from the tank.

Some rigs come with that bypass option, but many you'll have to install it. And your water pump may not be simple to locate, often mounted behind cabinets and accessible through a panel that has to be removed.

I'm sticking with the compressed air method this year, once I find my low point drains (it's my first winterization with this trailer).
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Old 11-04-2015, 01:36 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tireman9 View Post
Following FR instructions on my 2016 Coachmen 23QB I used air to blow out the lies. After thinking about the various probable water line connections I have to wonder about the line from the holding tank to the pump. No way to blow it out so if it freezes am I still at fault for following the service instructions in the provided owners manual?
I can't answer your question about whether you'll be at fault but your question is a good one though.

Remember, the line from the fresh water holding tank to the pump is an 'open-ended' part of your water system. Meaning, there is nothing on the tank end of that line to trap and hold any water. (or air) Most of the water in that line will drain back into the tank and any small amount left in there can freeze and expand but will not break anything in the line. It isn't the line though that I'd be concerned about, it's the pump. (see below)

You also didn't specify if the directions you referenced included adding RV antifreeze after blowing out the lines.

If you don't add antifreeze via the pump (or at the very least run the pump while blowing out the lines) you will never remove the residual water left in the pump that gets trapped there by the pump's check valve when only blowing out the lines through the city water connection.

For those that don't understand what I mean by the pump's check valve...
Your water pump has a built in check valve that keeps water from back-feeding through the pump and into your FW tank when hooked to city water.

When you blow out your system through the city water connection, that same check valve keeps the compressed air from evacuating any residual water in the pump.
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Old 11-04-2015, 06:20 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHSPack14 View Post
I am a new travel trailer owner. I have a 2014 Surveyor Sport 240 RBS. I have been viewing videos online on how to winterize but am confused about the bypassing of the water tank. I think this is what I am supposed to do:

1. Open relief valve on hot water heater and drain the hot water heater.
2. Find low point valve and open to drain
3. Find the water tank and close the valve; insert tube into antifreeze
4. Turn water pump on and circulate antifreeze in all water lines

Is this right? Where would I find the water tank with the bypass line???
just opening the relief valve will not drain the tank . you will need to remove the anode rod to drain the tank enough . i also then take a small hose and siphon the remainder of the water out of the tank that also brings with it a bunch of calcium that build up in the tank over time m
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Old 11-05-2015, 11:12 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by northstar1960 View Post
just opening the relief valve will not drain the tank . you will need to remove the anode rod to drain the tank enough . i also then take a small hose and siphon the remainder of the water out of the tank that also brings with it a bunch of calcium that build up in the tank over time m
I have used the Flush Wand for 8 years. gets all the sediment out.
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Old 11-06-2015, 02:19 PM   #30
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I have used the Flush Wand for 8 years. gets all the sediment out.
Looks like a handy tool . i see no way though by flushing it will remove all the sediment out as a lot will just settle out and not just come out the small anode port . but better then doing nothing
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