Winterizing Questions

[northstar1960]

Originally Posted by Carmen

not to hijack, but another question I have about winterizing is this, after you drain the holding tanks (black and grey), when you run the faucets putting antifreeze in until they run pink, doesnt that put water back in the tanks??

not so much if you leave the drains open to the tanks .

[Dinostop]

This issue with water in your lines is not so much the freezing is the expansion when it freezes. A little water in your tanks freezing is not going to hurt the tank because there is room for expansion. In actuality you will never get all the liquids out of holding tanks by dumping them anyways.


Eastlake, Ohio
2013 F-350 Turbo Diesel
2016 Heritage Glen 368rlbh

[SHSPack14]

I am a new travel trailer owner. I have a 2014 Surveyor Sport 240 RBS. I have been viewing videos online on how to winterize but am confused about the bypassing of the water tank. I think this is what I am supposed to do:

1. Open relief valve on hot water heater and drain the hot water heater.
2. Find low point valve and open to drain
3. Find the water tank and close the valve; insert tube into antifreeze
4. Turn water pump on and circulate antifreeze in all water lines

Is this right? Where would I find the water tank with the bypass line???

[ColoradoRick]

Originally Posted by Carmen

not to hijack, but another question I have about winterizing is this, after you drain the holding tanks (black and grey), when you run the faucets putting antifreeze in until they run pink, doesnt that put water back in the tanks??

Water in the grey and black tanks isn't really a concern because if it freezes and expands, there's not much that be damaged. (But you do want to empty all holding tanks and also flush out the black tank before you start winterizing.)

When you flush the lines, water will go into them but also a little antifreeze and, then, even more pure antifreeze when you dump some into the drains so it's never pure water down there. (When I'm done winterizing, I'll dump any remaining antifreeze into the tanks to dilute any water in them.)

Good question!!

[Tireman9]

Following FR instructions on my 2016 Coachmen 23QB I used air to blow out the lines. After thinking about the various probable water line connections I have to wonder about the line from the holding tank to the pump. No way to blow it out so if it freezes am I still at fault for following the service instructions in the provided owners manual?

[scottydl]

Originally Posted by SHSPack14

I am a new travel trailer owner. I have a 2014 Surveyor Sport 240 RBS. I have been viewing videos online on how to winterize but am confused about the bypassing of the water tank. I think this is what I am supposed to do:

1. Open relief valve on hot water heater and drain the hot water heater.
2. Find low point valve and open to drain
3. Find the water tank and close the valve; insert tube into antifreeze
4. Turn water pump on and circulate antifreeze in all water lines

Is this right? Where would I find the water tank with the bypass line???

There are two bypasses you need to handle, using the pink antifreeze method (versus the compressed air method, in which you just blow the water out of all the lines after draining the system).

One bypass is the hot water heater/tank. There will be valves to accomplish that, usually mounted on the backside of the hot water tank. Many rigs have accessibility to those valves under the kitchen sink.

The other bypass is the fresh water tank itself, unless you are going to fill that tank with gallons and gallons of antifreeze and then pump it through the system... which is what many manuals recommend, but is the most inefficient and expensive method. So, you "bypass" the fresh water tank by adding a kit to your water pump that allows the antifreeze to be sucked directly from the jug, without drawing anything from the tank.

Some rigs come with that bypass option, but many you'll have to install it. And your water pump may not be simple to locate, often mounted behind cabinets and accessible through a panel that has to be removed.

I'm sticking with the compressed air method this year, once I find my low point drains (it's my first winterization with this trailer).

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

Following FR instructions on my 2016 Coachmen 23QB I used air to blow out the lies. After thinking about the various probable water line connections I have to wonder about the line from the holding tank to the pump. No way to blow it out so if it freezes am I still at fault for following the service instructions in the provided owners manual?

I can't answer your question about whether you'll be at fault but your question is a good one though.

Remember, the line from the fresh water holding tank to the pump is an 'open-ended' part of your water system. Meaning, there is nothing on the tank end of that line to trap and hold any water. (or air) Most of the water in that line will drain back into the tank and any small amount left in there can freeze and expand but will not break anything in the line. It isn't the line though that I'd be concerned about, it's the pump. (see below)

You also didn't specify if the directions you referenced included adding RV antifreeze after blowing out the lines.

If you don't add antifreeze via the pump (or at the very least run the pump while blowing out the lines) you will never remove the residual water left in the pump that gets trapped there by the pump's check valve when only blowing out the lines through the city water connection.

For those that don't understand what I mean by the pump's check valve...
Your water pump has a built in check valve that keeps water from back-feeding through the pump and into your FW tank when hooked to city water.

When you blow out your system through the city water connection, that same check valve keeps the compressed air from evacuating any residual water in the pump.

[northstar1960]

Originally Posted by SHSPack14

I am a new travel trailer owner. I have a 2014 Surveyor Sport 240 RBS. I have been viewing videos online on how to winterize but am confused about the bypassing of the water tank. I think this is what I am supposed to do:

1. Open relief valve on hot water heater and drain the hot water heater.
2. Find low point valve and open to drain
3. Find the water tank and close the valve; insert tube into antifreeze
4. Turn water pump on and circulate antifreeze in all water lines

Is this right? Where would I find the water tank with the bypass line???

just opening the relief valve will not drain the tank . you will need to remove the anode rod to drain the tank enough . i also then take a small hose and siphon the remainder of the water out of the tank that also brings with it a bunch of calcium that build up in the tank over time m

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by northstar1960

just opening the relief valve will not drain the tank . you will need to remove the anode rod to drain the tank enough . i also then take a small hose and siphon the remainder of the water out of the tank that also brings with it a bunch of calcium that build up in the tank over time m

I have used the Flush Wand for 8 years. gets all the sediment out.

[northstar1960]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

I have used the Flush Wand for 8 years. gets all the sediment out.

Looks like a handy tool . i see no way though by flushing it will remove all the sediment out as a lot will just settle out and not just come out the small anode port . but better then doing nothing

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by northstar1960

Looks like a handy tool . i see no way though by flushing it will remove all the sediment out as a lot will just settle out and not just come out the small anode port . but better then doing nothing

Well I can tell you that when water squirts out the small end of the tool nothing settles out. The anode port is much larger than the little tube so lots of water can flow out. The pressure from the end of the tool will even loosen any sediment that may have compacted in the bottom of the tank.

[northstar1960]

Tireman
i'll have to put one together and give it a try . thanks

[MNtraveler]

Isn't that the old Water-Pic? 😉


Land of 10,000 Lakes
2016 Forester MBS 2401R

[Delco Bobby]

I am taking my Sunseeker 2013 2250 into the dealer for some warranty work. While there I was going to have the winterize the unit. I think they charge about $90 which I hate to spend but due to some physical disability it would be very difficult to do it myself.

I just noticed on the dealer web site that this is what is included in the winterize "basic" service:
Drain water heater.
Open drain valve for fresh tank.
Run anti-freeze through all fresh water lines.
Fill P-traps with anti-freeze.

I assumed they would also dump my grey and black tanks but apparently that will be an additional charge, ouch.

What else can I expect them to charge extra for if I want a proper job? (Not that I expect one from them based on past experience)

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by Delco Bobby

I am taking my Sunseeker 2013 2250 into the dealer for some warranty work. While there I was going to have the winterize the unit. I think they charge about $90 which I hate to spend but due to some physical disability it would be very difficult to do it myself.

I just noticed on the dealer web site that this is what is included in the winterize "basic" service:
Drain water heater.
Open drain valve for fresh tank.
Run anti-freeze through all fresh water lines.
Fill P-traps with anti-freeze.

I assumed they would also dump my grey and black tanks but apparently that will be an additional charge, ouch.

What else can I expect them to charge extra for if I want a proper job? (Not that I expect one from them based on past experience)

If you have had problems with the dealers work in the past I suggest you find a local mobile tech to winterize your unit at your storage place.

A shoddy winterizing job could get rather expensive next time you add water to it.

[Delco Bobby]

Originally Posted by Ford Idaho

If you have had problems with the dealers work in the past I suggest you find a local mobile tech to winterize your unit at your storage place.

A shoddy winterizing job could get rather expensive next time you add water to it.

I have not actually paid for any service at my dealer yet, all warranty work. But it has taken 3 to 5 trips for each problem to be resolved. Suspect that they assign the rookies to the warranty work and it takes weeks to get an appointment.

I have not been able to find a mobile tech in my area by doing a web search.

My intention is to use my RV all year so I keep it at home.

Thanks for your input.

Bobby

[northstar1960]

Originally Posted by Delco Bobby

I have not actually paid for any service at my dealer yet, all warranty work. But it has taken 3 to 5 trips for each problem to be resolved. Suspect that they assign the rookies to the warranty work and it takes weeks to get an appointment.

I have not been able to find a mobile tech in my area by doing a web search.

My intention is to use my RV all year so I keep it at home.

Thanks for your input.

Bobby

The manufactures make it hard for the dealers and mostly for the techs . nothing about rv maintenance is rocket science . when you drop off for warranty work it goes to a tech where he goes through line by line what needs to be done , how long it will take and any parts if needed to be ordered . most shops are flat rate and the tech does not get paid to do diagnoses . then your unit goes back to the lot waiting for warranty approval from which ever manufacture , then parts are ordered , once all has come in the unit goes back to the tech where he gets to see how much time he will get for the work no matter how long it takes . he gets as much done as he can until he gets to the part/parts ordered and see some bone head ordered the wrong part and didn't bother to check when it came in to make sure it was correct .then your unit goes back to the lot until the new correct part come in . back to the tech where he finishes installing what ever part . it may be a new faucet well that pays him a whole 12 mins .

any problems you may have are ot with techs but higher up in the chain . dealers lie so much they don't know when their telling the truth or not any more . then the manufactures are dragging their feet the whole way .


so don't blame the techs as most of them are out to do a good job on what ever or whoevers rv they have to work on .

[Delco Bobby]

Originally Posted by northstar1960

The manufactures make it hard for the dealers and mostly for the techs . nothing about rv maintenance is rocket science . when you drop off for warranty work it goes to a tech where he goes through line by line what needs to be done , how long it will take and any parts if needed to be ordered . most shops are flat rate and the tech does not get paid to do diagnoses . then your unit goes back to the lot waiting for warranty approval from which ever manufacture , then parts are ordered , once all has come in the unit goes back to the tech where he gets to see how much time he will get for the work no matter how long it takes . he gets as much done as he can until he gets to the part/parts ordered and see some bone head ordered the wrong part and didn't bother to check when it came in to make sure it was correct .then your unit goes back to the lot until the new correct part come in . back to the tech where he finishes installing what ever part . it may be a new faucet well that pays him a whole 12 mins .

any problems you may have are ot with techs but higher up in the chain . dealers lie so much they don't know when their telling the truth or not any more . then the manufactures are dragging their feet the whole way .


so don't blame the techs as most of them are out to do a good job on what ever or whoevers rv they have to work on .

Thanks for the reply. In this case I bought a used RV so the warranty is from the dealer not the factory. This was a 30 day warranty, I bought the RV in late August. I know they have some excellent techs but I am not sure that all of their guys are top notch. As you said, wrong parts ordered multiple times; for propane system and backup camera. Failure of service to call when parts are in. Failure of service to call when work is complete even after promising to do so.

Dealer was my best friend until the day after the sale.

But right now I am more concerned about getting my RV winterized and my propane tank replaced. I want to use the heater and make coffee on the stove.

I use the RV everyday even if it is just sitting in my driveway.

[Gleaner]

I Was looking at my FR Manuel today as this is my first time to winterize this new TT.
I too saw the boiler plate instructions that said pour 6-8 gals of antifreeze into the fresh water tank and pump it in.
That's not what they said at the PDI.
Anyway I drained the hw tank and turned the bypass valve.
Drained the low points under the TT.
Removed the water filter.
Then hooked up a hose, into a jug of RV antifreeze and screwed that hose into the inlet on the left side of the TT, right under the city water inlet. (This inlet is marked for antifreeze.)
Turned on the pump and it would not suck antifreeze into the TT.
Is there another bypass or valve under the sink by the pump and filter?

[MNtraveler]

Originally Posted by Gleaner

I Was looking at my FR Manuel today as this is my first time to winterize this new TT.
I too saw the boiler plate instructions that said pour 6-8 gals of antifreeze into the fresh water tank and pump it in.
That's not what they said at the PDI.
Anyway I drained the hw tank and turned the bypass valve.
Drained the low points under the TT.
Removed the water filter.
Then hooked up a hose, into a jug of RV antifreeze and screwed that hose into the inlet on the left side of the TT, right under the city water inlet. (This inlet is marked for antifreeze.)
Turned on the pump and it would not suck antifreeze into the TT.
Is there another bypass or valve under the sink by the pump and filter?

You will need to find the switch or lever to change your pump from pulling out of the fresh water tank to drawing from the antifreeze port. I have a connection at the pump that is switchable but not this kind of antifreeze inlet port so I can't help on that point.

If you do not have a switchable pump, then the feed into the antifreeze fill port will need to be drive by an external pump such as an electric pump or a power drill driven pump. (However, I suspect you have a switchable pump because otherwise that would be no different from using the City Water port to load in antifreeze.)

If you could identify your specific TT model, that would help others to provide the information you need.


Land of 10,000 Lakes
2016 Forester MBS 2401R