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Old 10-07-2014, 09:02 AM   #1
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winterizing the black water tank flush

This is my first unit with a black water tank flush. When winterizing, there doesn't appear to be a way of getting antifreeze into that section. What should one do? I blew the line out with air...will that suffice?
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Old 10-07-2014, 10:41 AM   #2
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I took the advice of another on this forum and pumped RV antifreeze through it using my outside shower hose. I created my own adapter using 2 hose clamps, a hose end, an old piece of garden hose and a brass fitting.

Worked great.


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Old 10-07-2014, 11:00 AM   #3
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This is my first unit with a black water tank flush. When winterizing, there doesn't appear to be a way of getting antifreeze into that section. What should one do? I blew the line out with air...will that suffice?
Frist of all your toilet water line will fill with antifreeze Just hold down you flush pedal, Then if you want just dump some in the tank through the toilet itself. Just blow that line out, if you try and fill it, it would just dump into your tank anyway. Somebody might have a different way. I know of no other way. It's a direct line to the tank no valves to open or close. At Least not on my unit.
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Old 10-07-2014, 05:04 PM   #4
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OK...thanks...I did blow it out and assumed that water would make its way to the tank anyhow...if there are no valves then it will just drain anyhow and wouldn't be under any pressure so there would be room for expansion as it freezes causing no damage...but using compressed air I am confident I got any standing water out of that line anyhow.
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Old 10-07-2014, 06:13 PM   #5
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My vacuum break froze and broke last year. I normally just give them a quick blow out, but evidently that wasn't enough. Will give it a little extra this year but won't run antifreeze through it. Could have been just a freak incident also.
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Old 10-07-2014, 11:58 PM   #6
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The Black Tank Flush on my 2013 8289ws does in fact have a valve. It is for preventing backflow. The line runs from the connection on the outside of the trailer across the top of the pass through storage and up through the floor in the corner behind the shower. The backflow valve is directly behind the shower valves. From there the line goes back down through the floor into the pass through area. I have not bothered to track it beyond this point as at the time I was fixing a water leak...the connection to the backflow valve was loose/leaking (thank you FRF for helping me find the cause!).

As to winterizing this line, I didn't last year and had no issue (never occurred to me to winterize it). I think it would be worth tracking that line though to check for any low spots that wouldn't drain with gravity. If there are any, than pumping antifreeze through it would be wise.

For those with other makes/models of RV's...From what I learned during that leak repair, backflow valves are pretty standard in these flush lines. They are most commonly found in the bathroom vanity under the sink. The valve itself isn't the concern...it's where/how the lines get from point A to point B and whether or not they have low spots that wont drain.
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Old 10-08-2014, 03:48 AM   #7
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I blew the line out with air...will that suffice?
Works for us. And it doesn't take much air pressure to blow any residual moisture into the black tank. Thereafter some antifreeze down the commode will take care of any water residing down by the gate valve.

FWIW... winters in our neck of the woods are six months long with temperatures frequently dipping to -40. We don't fill the TT's plumbing with antifreeze. The system gets blown out and appropriate amounts of antifreeze are added to the p-traps with a little extra to reside by the gate valves. We use about a gallon and then some of antifreeze to winterize as opposed to the six gallons it would take to fill the whole system.

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Old 10-08-2014, 05:14 AM   #8
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Frist of all your toilet water line will fill with antifreeze Just hold down you flush pedal, Then if you want just dump some in the tank through the toilet itself. Just blow that line out, if you try and fill it, it would just dump into your tank anyway. Somebody might have a different way. I know of no other way. It's a direct line to the tank no valves to open or close. At Least not on my unit.
he's talking about the black tank sprayer/flush line that cleans the inside of the tank. I use my outside shower hose connected to the flush, then pump it through with the on board water pump.
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Old 10-08-2014, 07:52 AM   #9
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Applying pressurized air to the outside connection of the black water tank flush should however blow out residual water and blow it into the holding tank.
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Old 10-08-2014, 12:38 PM   #10
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I have one of these from camping world and it does the trick. It's called a plastic winterizing hand pump. Put one end in the antifreeze bottle and attach the hose end to the flush connector.
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Old 10-08-2014, 03:38 PM   #11
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he's talking about the black tank sprayer/flush line that cleans the inside of the tank. I use my outside shower hose connected to the flush, then pump it through with the on board water pump.
Yes I understand what he is saying but it's straight line to the tank spay fittings. So I can't see how adding antifreeze to that line which is nothing but garden hose for a better word would even stay in the line? It would just dump into your holding tank. Blowing it out is good enough IMO. This is not a pressurized line or plex. it is just a rubber hose line. How does it stay in your line, there is no shut off to build pressure back? There is a check valve but it's the opposite it will allow water through it but will not hold water or antifreeze in this case back to the inlet, it will just drain into the tank.
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Old 10-08-2014, 04:24 PM   #12
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To be on the safe side, adding antifreeze will ensure the line and the sprayers are protected. It was recommended to me, doesn't cost but a few cents, and I've done it for years and not had a problem. And having antifreeze in the tank is a good thing too. So, now there are alternatives for the original poster. Geez, this is too simple an issue on which to debate the merits of 5 cents worth of antifreeze.
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Old 10-08-2014, 04:52 PM   #13
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To be on the safe side, adding antifreeze will ensure the line and the sprayers are protected. It was recommended to me, doesn't cost but a few cents, and I've done it for years and not had a problem. And having antifreeze in the tank is a good thing too. So, now there are alternatives for the original poster. Geez, this is too simple an issue on which to debate the merits of 5 cents worth of antifreeze.
Does anyone go out to their lawn and apply AF to each sprinkler head?? The flush line is an upside down U with a built in vent in the middle, It cannot hold water after the hose is removed.
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Old 10-08-2014, 04:56 PM   #14
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You sir, are decidedly troubled.
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Old 10-08-2014, 05:03 PM   #15
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You sir, are decidedly troubled.
Certainly not trying to be, just trying to help folks save some work, the shower drain often fails cause its not free to drain.
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Old 10-08-2014, 05:19 PM   #16
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To be on the safe side, adding antifreeze will ensure the line and the sprayers are protected. It was recommended to me, doesn't cost but a few cents, and I've done it for years and not had a problem. And having antifreeze in the tank is a good thing too. So, now there are alternatives for the original poster. Geez, this is too simple an issue on which to debate the merits of 5 cents worth of antifreeze.
I don't think it's a debate as much of how other people do it. The OP asked a question and is getting opinions. How do you keep the antifreeze in your line, that's my question? If the black water flush line was a problem and could be done then when you add antifreeze through the fitting supplied it would fill and stay in it. Mine doesn't. So I blow it out, There is no no dumb question the only dumb question is the one you do not ask. I don't see your debate, but people are tiring to help each other on there practices.....
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Old 10-08-2014, 06:29 PM   #17
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I wouldn't want to go through the hassle of making an adapter for the outside shower head for the sake of getting antifreeze into the flush line if it's not going to stay within the system and just drain into the tank...when comparing to yard sprinkler heads, all they do is simply blow the lines out, so I thought that would work with the flush line as well.....anyhow thats what I ended up doing and now the trailer is going into storage for the winter, so sure hope having done that will suffice.
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Old 10-08-2014, 07:01 PM   #18
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Gljurczyk, The "debate" comment was directed at VinceU who was not content to explore options, and let the OP decide which would be best, but rather to denigrate and "debate" an option I proposed (see the snide comment regarding sprinkler heads). If people can't offer options/opinions on this forum, it becomes worthless as they will refrain from posting from fear of being flamed. So I propose we all sit back, take a deep breath, and shake virtual hands.
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Old 10-08-2014, 08:07 PM   #19
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For what it's worth the black flush line on my 3008 Wind Jammer does retain water in some sections of the line due to the loops in it and where the check valve is mounted. Seeing as this is the first year with one I used antifreeze instead of air. Would the air get all the water out? Probably and I may try that next year.
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Old 10-08-2014, 09:03 PM   #20
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The bottom line is that it's really too bad manufacturers don't provide an easy way to get antifreeze into the black tank flush lines...seems absurd that one would have to rig something up on their own to use the outside shower in order to get antifreeze in there.
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