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Old 08-20-2012, 10:52 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by herk7769

What gauge?
I doubt it would be 8 gauge (40 amp) rubber shielded 3 wire (Black, White, Green).
It's a 30 amp and it was the same gauge as the stock power cord with camper I did searching when I needed 50 feet for a trip.
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:14 AM   #22
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It's a 30 amp and it was the same gauge as the stock power cord with camper I did searching when I needed 50 feet for a trip.
That would be 10 gauge (30 amp). You most likely will only be able to pull about 20 amps through 100 feet before the voltage drop in that narrow a pipe will cause air conditioner damage.

Still, a buck a foot is pretty cheap. Have you seen the cost of copper lately?
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:49 AM   #23
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That would be 10 gauge (30 amp). You most likely will only be able to pull about 20 amps through 100 feet before the voltage drop in that narrow a pipe will cause air conditioner damage.

Still, a buck a foot is pretty cheap. Have you seen the cost of copper lately?
You are correct, herk.
I just ran through the numbers and even an 8 guage 100 foot cord would have a drop of 4.7 volts at 30 amps. So a 10 guage would obviously not be up to the task.
I'd better go have a look at my cords!
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Old 08-26-2012, 08:34 PM   #24
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Ok, I have to go 120 feet. Do I need to go with 6 gauge?
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Old 08-26-2012, 09:28 PM   #25
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Ok, I have to go 120 feet. Do I need to go with 6 gauge?
Is that 120 PLUS the 30 foot OEM cord? If so you would be OK with 8 GA I think unless you plan on doing something silly like trying to use both the AC and the water heater on electric at the same time. 5 volts may seem like a lot, but it is not so bad.

It IS horrible when it STARTS OUT at 110 or 105 (instead of 120 like it is supposed to) and drops 5 volts though.
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Old 08-26-2012, 10:33 PM   #26
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No, it's 120 feet total from the pod to the camper. I would be careful about how many amps I would use, just don't want to fry a cord. Wasn't sure if 8 gauge would be enough to go that far. Thanks for the response.
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Old 08-26-2012, 10:57 PM   #27
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rsn, you wouldn't have to worry about frying the cord, as the resistance and resulting heat would be spread over the full length of it. It is the appliances you need to watch,, as the voltage drop is hard on motors and such. At 120 feet, an 8 guage would probably do. Remember, the above calculations are at full load. So I suppose even a 10 guage would work if you were very careful. But it would be good to have a voltmeter just in case. Knowledge is power.
Does anyone know how many amps a 15,000 btu air cond pulls at startup?
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Old 08-26-2012, 11:31 PM   #28
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rsn, you wouldn't have to worry about frying the cord, as the resistance and resulting heat would be spread over the full length of it. It is the appliances you need to watch,, as the voltage drop is hard on motors and such. At 120 feet, an 8 guage would probably do. Remember, the above calculations are at full load. So I suppose even a 10 guage would work if you were very careful. But it would be good to have a voltmeter just in case. Knowledge is power.
Does anyone know how many amps a 15,000 btu air cond pulls at startup?
The starting amperage is listed in the specifications as locked rotor amps or LRA. The ones I've found are listed at around 66 amps.
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Old 08-26-2012, 11:38 PM   #29
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The starting amperage is listed in the specifications as locked rotor amps or LRA. The ones I've found are listed at around 66 amps.
This is true, but the amps are applied in seconds. It will be well below those to the "running amps" "normally" before the breaker can heat up enough to open.

It is the low voltage that causes high "long term" amps; enough to pop breakers.

The Autotransformer is made to fix this problem.
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Old 08-26-2012, 11:52 PM   #30
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Ok herk, you have my attention. This "autotransformer", could you explain how it helps? I know I could probably "google" it, but I'd like a more personal angle, if you have the time to explain it. Thanks.
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