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02-10-2015, 06:44 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 6
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12 volt glitch
Have a 2008 Sunseeker 29LTD. Prior to changing converter ( which was testing bad), all 12 volt systems were working while unit going down highway. After changing converter, shore power and generator power 12 volt side perfectly. Now battery side is completely dead. Battery checks good under load test and disconnect switch appears to be working when jumped, but has no volatage. So, in summary all was working prior to changing converter....now 120 side works fine but battery side completely dead. I have located a Battery Control Center, but am unable to get into it yet due to corrosion and rust. The converter that came out was 55Amp, but I could only find a 45Amp to replace it. I know BCC has fuses in it, but I have no wiring diagram for it or Coach.
Suggestions
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02-10-2015, 06:49 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,031
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You should never go lower amps. You can go higher but never lower. There should be fuses in the panel that the converter is installed. Can you post a picture of the electrical panel that the converter is installed? This might help to narrow down the problem.
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Terry and Janet
2008 3001W Windjammer
2007 Ford F150
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02-10-2015, 06:59 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 6
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I considered that might be a problem, and asked about it. RV supply said it was OK, and so did RV repair shop. It is at RV repair shop now and I will tell him to test with 55 AMP converter. I will get pic when I go out there tomorrow.
Thanks
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02-10-2015, 07:04 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,031
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This might not be the problem but having a lower amp converter could have problems later on. You need all the amp to charge battery and keep and the 12 volt working properly. Think of it this way, in your home you have a 200 amp breaker box you replace the box and can not find a 200 amp and install a 100 amp. Everything in the house will still work but you might not be able to run all the items at the same time that you once could.
__________________
Terry and Janet
2008 3001W Windjammer
2007 Ford F150
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02-10-2015, 07:14 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 6
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That is what I thought. I also thought that since my shore power is only 30Amps it should not be an issue. Keep in mind I'm no electrical wizard, and generally the limit of my knowledge is "flip the switch and you have electricity". This is all new to me and I still have a gigantic learning curve.
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02-10-2015, 09:54 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Alberta
Posts: 139
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like mentioned, going with the lower amp converter isnt going to be an issue as far as immediate catastrophic failure. it just may have a short lifespan due to being under full load alot of the time (and may not be able to provide enough power to maintain ~13v during periods of high 12v power usage). again not the end of the world, but if you are using more than 45amp on the 12v circuit you may find that their is a voltage drop as the converter becomes unable to maintain voltage and you begin to discharge the battery.
anyways, on with the issue, sounds like obviously just a disconnect between the battery and the distribution panel if the converter is supplying the trailer with DC power via gen/shore power. Likely just a breaker or fuse between the battery and the disconnect switch
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'14 XLR 395AMP
'16 Ram 3500 DRW, 6.7 cummins w/aisin trans and 4.10 gears
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02-11-2015, 07:05 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 6
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That is what I'm leaning towards, just have to locate it. Difficult with no wiring diagram or owners manual. I have e-mailed Forest River to see if I can purchase an Owners Manual, but have received no reply as of yet.
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02-11-2015, 08:08 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caper
You should never go lower amps. You can go higher but never lower. There should be fuses in the panel that the converter is installed. Can you post a picture of the electrical panel that the converter is installed? This might help to narrow down the problem.
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Personally, I would never go to a higher amp converter unless you are changing the wires that go to the batteries. It's just like in a house, you never change a breaker or fuse to a higher rating without changing wires.
Hope you get the problem figured out.
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02-11-2015, 08:17 AM
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#9
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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I've change mine from 55 to 70 with zero issue's .
Considering forest river installs the very minimum on everything I'm sure the converter is at the exact minimum as well.
I've got a hundred amp converter on the shelf and other then it being a 20 amp unit vs 15 amp it would probably be in instead.
It'll have to wait till I upgrade to a 50 amp trailer.
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02-11-2015, 08:41 AM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H W Johnson
That is what I thought. I also thought that since my shore power is only 30Amps it should not be an issue. Keep in mind I'm no electrical wizard, and generally the limit of my knowledge is "flip the switch and you have electricity". This is all new to me and I still have a gigantic learning curve.
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Your shore power is 30 amps of 120 volt AC power.
The converter outputs 12 volt DC power.
What the converter does is takes the input of 120 volt AC power and then converts it over to output 12 volt DC power...to power the things that run off off DC.
120 volt AC amps and 12 volt DC amps are not the same for same.
This article by Mark Polk may better explain it:
RV Converters and Amp Draw - RV Information (RV Maintenance)
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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02-11-2015, 10:25 AM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 6
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There was a breaker inline.....finally found it, replaced it and everything works. Thanks for the help everyone.
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